How do I determine if the OAI hood on my 70 442 is original? It is a W25 car. The hood has a few cracks along the front edge. The crack that is 1 or 2 inches above the tooth is deep and will probable require separating the steel frame from the hood to make a good repair. I want to make sure I have a factory hood before committing too much time and money.

 

Looks original to me. One way that was usually the defining obvious factor was that the factory hoods dropped down on the sides.

See how this hood doesn't quite line up on the driver's side? Terrible picture but...

 

OK, preface this with no knowledge of OAI hoods, but the “tooth” is separate from the hood and therefore a seam or gap is gonna be there.

 

Thanks for the replys. I know that the tooth is separate. I included that picture because the between the tooth and the hood shows that the fiberglass is actually split and has separated from the steel reinforcement.

No1oldsfan, are you referring to how the eyebrow moldings on the fenders and the hood moldings do not line up because the hood molding is lower? I looked at that today and thought I would need to fix that. Maybe not a good idea. I don't have a good picture of the front end but here's one that I took the day I trailed the car home that shows the hood/fender. misalignment.

 

Hey No1, I think that's a great picture! Love the cat - taking care of business, Where did you get that plate? It's old school with the embossed numerals for the year, 1970, but under current Colorado DMV rules vanity plates with nothing but numerals are disallowed. Is that a state issued vanity plate?

 

I believe one of the original items reproduction hoods didn’t have is the small hole on each side of the inside of the front scoops like there was originally going to have pivoting flappers in them.

if it hasn’t been repainted underneath, factory appear to be painted from front to back so when looking from back to front, there will be unpainted areas of fiberglass in all the holes.

the spot welds for the screen are also extremely tiny..hard to replicate that.
yours looks real.

just finished the bottom of the one going on my car…

 

Pretty sweet to see another NJ 442, mine was made 23 Mar, just 7440 cars ahead of yours…
Eric

 

Exactly.
The plate was a state produced sample plate. I have seen them in various years. I never actually used it on the street. That picture is from 1984 or so.

 

I think the spot welds seal the deal. I was trying to figure out how I could separate the steel frame from the hood. Looking at the screen I could not figure out how it was held in place. Very tiny welds!

 

Before making assumptions, take the hood to a Corvette body specialist shop. They are the experts on fiberglass repair and bonding. And they made invisible, lasting repairs on my original OAI hood.

In my experience, many conventional body shops don't know how to make correct repairs.

 

That little piece of information verifies what I suspected. I've noticed the same feature on several 1970 OAI cars. While not as nice as a perfectly fit body line across the front, it really is a badge of authenticity for an original W25 hood. Thank you for that.

tc

 

Yes sir. I have learned that over the years.

 

Just getting started and think this thread may be the one I want. I am drawing up exterior parts in Solidworks for my 1970 442 with what I think is a non factory hood. It does not line up properly. Anyway Is there any chance that anyone has or can get dimensions for the hood length and width? Outside to front, center to front and width top, bottom and center?

 

Try contacting Thornton Reproductions in PA

 

Factory documents will help. Fisher body, parts and illustrations book, chassis service manual.