So I took my oiling concerns to the minds of facebook, and a lot suggested running VR1 20w50 oil, as that's what they do on all sorts of motors. I gave it a shot, and I pressure is MUCH better, but I feel like running such thick stuff is normally reserved for engines on their last leg. I was told that olds motors have loose tolerances, so lower oil pressure is typical unless you get a high flow pump.

And update about taking my car back to the rebuilders; said they found a lot of gas in the oil and they said my engine is fucked and won't touch it. The gas in the oil is new to me because I haven't had that issue before. I changed the oil and have been driving it a bit, so far nothing that I can tell. Maybe they flooded my engine to get me to **** off, idk. My car is running rich, but not enough to smoke or anything, so I'm still trying to track down that cause.

 

And that's your FIRST problem right there...

 

Well it's a big oldsmobile page if that helps any.

 

Have you actually read some of the threads? 80% of the answers to any technical question on FB are completely wrong. Your call on whether or not that's good enough for you.

Look, you don't want to hear this, but low oil pressure in a new engine is caused by one of two things. Either the oil pump is weak or the bearing clearances are excessive. Either of those requires the motor to come out. If all you care about is flipping the car to an unsuspecting buyer, then yeah, go ahead and load up on 20W-50, and throw some sawdust in the pan for good measure. Run, don't walk to the bank when you make the sale.

 

They must have this seal of approval on facebook... I always get a kick from facecbook when a knowledgeable person is berated by an idiot.

 

I know to always take stuff with a grain of salt. But honestly, what would make the "experts" on this forum any more valid than facebook? Sure you'll get more idiots when you have a bigger group, but you'd also get more valid advice as well? Up to us to decide which advice to listen to.

Honestly I'm fed up with this motor and I'm half way tempted to sell it, but I'd be out a **** ton. Still hoping I can find a cheap/good 455 to toss in instead (but that could be another whole mess of issues)

 

Pull the dipstick, if the engine is over full and the oil smells like fuel, change the fuel pump. Unless the float on the carb is stuck open, or you have been driving around for weeks with the choke closed (in which case you would definitely know something is wrong!) the only way enough fuel can get into the oil pan is from a bad fuel pump.

Do you know if the engine has a high volume oil pump? If not, I would put one in. You said before the oil filter is clean, the engine runs well and makes no noise. Once the engine is out, you can inspect the bearing for excessive wear. If the wear is normal, throw a oil pump in it and some 10w40 and roll the dice. I know it’s not the best answer, or the one you want to hear, but it’s the best you can do without tearing into it again.

 

Oil levels are good. Tbh, I might be sniffing my oil too much cause now I can't tell what smells like oil and what smells like gas lol. When I take it in to have the cam put in, I was also going to get a high volume oil pump done as well. I'm replacing the fuel pump today, so that may lead to somewhere or not.

Another question for y'all. Is there any harm in driving with the PCV port on the carb capped? When I plugged it, the RPMs dropped (so I adjusted the idle speed) but now the engine sounds smoother.

 

You can take the oil pressure gauge out, do routine oil changes and as long as it’s not knocking or anything you won’t have anything to worry you.

 

Ignorance is bliss lol

 

Ever since the 80s my car has used 20w50 oil and the engine has been "on its last leg" only once in that time frame. I see no detriment of using 20W50 unless you're in the land of the frozen tundra during the winter, but then again all of my experiences have been in the warm country south of I-10.

Well that's just a global generalization that makes no sense at all. The tolerances are set by the machinist, so they can be whatever that machinist / builder thinks is appropriate for the application.

 

Well you have been given solid advice by Joe P, choose to use it or not, your car, your choice.

 

For a stock rebuild, you may be better suited with the VR1 in 10w40, but I've run the 20w50 in mine for 25 years without an issue & I don't baby it.
With that said, I do not run it in cold weather, nor was is built with super tight clearances. .003 Mains & .0025 Rods

 

If it's still washing the bores, you're screwed. Get the carb right, first but it sounds like too little, too late

 

I run 20w50 on my 350 and its ran hard. My engine from day one will not make 50.lbs of oil pressure at idle it will see 40 and will see 60 at high rpm . The 20w50 won't fix anything. I had a 307 that I accidentally left the oil pump rod out of and fired it up. I ran it long enough to no kill it but by the time I got the rod in and then fired it up it made 20 psi cold at idle. It may have seen 5 hot at a light. I drove it like this for a full summer then the engine got sold and went into a derby car then another until the engine started to burn a quart of oil between rounds. Just my experience with similar scenarios.

 

That sounds like complete BS. They obviously screwed something up and left you with a very questionable motor. Did you change the oil shortly after break in? Was it always this low of pressure? Buy another gauge and double check the numbers. Yes, 20W50 is for a hurting engine. You should only need 10W30 on a fresh engine. I have had much better numbers on used, 40 year old short blocks, something isn't right.