1970 Olds Rallye 350 all the Lamp sockets for 80% of all the lights are not working properly. YES I took them apart and sprayed wd40 and massaged them back and fourth but the springs are disintegrating. Does anyone have a easy fix? Thank you in advance

 

You're going to need to provide additional information for further assistance on your issue(s) since many (most) of the lamps you may be referring to have springs. Are we talking about exterior tail lamps, backup lamps, dash lights, door housing lights? A little more information would help others in assisting you. Circuits are separate for various areas of the vehicle - e.g. turn signal lamps, backup lamps, dash lamps, etc. - more information - be specific.

 

As you move forward w/ electrical testing/diagnostics, the fastest/easiest method to test wiring/circuits is to own/use a test/circuit light. They can be purchased at any automotive parts store from $4.00 - $18.00. It will save you TONS of time in troubleshooting.



https://www.harborfreight.com/612V-C...ead-63603.html

 

Sorry Vintage the rear lights the sockets are frozen and also the front bottom lights are also frozen I have soaked them with WD 40 for two days some of the springs are braking apart. I will try to get some pictures. Is there a way to replace the welded socket.? Looks like It’s one whole piece the socket and the base of the lights.

Yes I have the light tester and have been real busy under the dash and got the brake arm switch to finally send voltage to the back wires.

 

These sockets (both the 1156 & 1157 if that's what you're referring to) can rust out, and/or the springs rust out. You 'can' purchase just the wire spring(s) but I've found it much easier to replace the entire socket. Remember the ground is achieved via the socket contacting the metal. Many/Most (depending on location) of these sockets are/were pressed into the lamp housing while others were not. In any case, you can w/ some perseverance remove any of these sockets and replace the entire socket. Clean up the bases (where the socket contacts metal) real good to ensure a good ground. I've wire brushed until I'm blue in the face trying to save sockets (some success) but for the most part you'll get a bigger bang for your buck if you just replace the entire socket. They sell these at most automotive parts stores for both 1156 & 1157.

 

WD40 is one of the last things Id grab to break rusted metal parts apart.
Go get some PB Blaster and or Castles Thrust.
You might be able to save the OEM sockets?
If not splice in new parts using heat shrink butt splices...dont over crimp them. Buy the correct crimping tool. Or solder and shrink tube if you can solder. If you over crimp and breach the shrinkable outer layer on the butt splices (AKA solderless butt splices) they are now useless at sealing out moisture.

The other option is to replace the entire rear compartment wire harness. It's not all that hard to do and everything will be fresh. This will also give you the opportunity to clean all the grounds and replace missing ground straps.

MAW time for a trunk detail....

 

thank you droldsmorland

 

thank you again norm.. can i find a video on this being done?

 

I don’t know - I’ve never looked for one. Keep in mind, even the toughest ones which are pressed in ‘will’ come out. Cut the wires, punch them out with a hammer, mangle them with a pliers, grab the exterior edge of them with a pair of dikes and cut them out - whatever is needed to remove them. They can be removed from the lamp/light housing. Then wire up your new one(s) and insert them. You have to think outside the box here - they will come out.

 

Do you solder the new housing in place.?

 

I would like to see a picture of one that’s been done. A picture would answer many questions in my mind.

 

Like I said, think out of the box on this. You “can”, as I have stated even replace the ENTIRE socket. Just rip it out however you care to.

 

Thank you

 

Nice find on the video. Thanks for sharing. I’ll be using it soon

 

Had a problem with the turn signal being full of water on my '72 Cutlass. Let the water out and blasted it with QD Electronic Cleaner and the rust poured right out. Hit non-working brake light sockets with it, too, with positive effect. Stuff's extremely flammable, though, so be sure it's all evaporated before re-energizing the lights. Whichever path you choose to fix it, be sure to replace your lens gaskets afterwards.