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I found some universal AP steel engine pipe to manifold flanges that work perfectly on my 1970 442 engine pipes. They are part # APH-8777 at Summit and only cost $3.99 each, as opposed to $30 per pair from the resto parts guys. They look a little different, but work perfectly. Below I have pictures comparing the Walker #31862 (which is out of stock everywhere I checked), to the AP # APH-8777. The AP flanges require 1-1/2" long bolts. I use grade 8 bolts and never-sieze. top side bottom side
There seems to be some confusion about how they go, so I took some installed pics today. The top side (in my orig pics) faces the manifolds on both flanges. Passenger side Passenger side looking up from below. driver side
Clean the manifold and pipe flange. Apply a film of exhaust pipe paste tighten into position.(assuming the whole system has been loosely aligned at this point). Wipe off excess before it drys. Use a thread chaser, not a tap, to clean the manifold threads. Liberally coat the bolts with copper high heat anti-seize. Wipe excess anti-seize.
For the record: there's also bolt-together "split-flanges" that can be installed on an existing pipe that's already been flared. They're a fine solution as a repair for flanges that have rotted out.
I have an Edelbrock "Stainless Steel" Tubular Exhaust System (Shorty headers) on an '88 K1500 pickup. The headers and Y-pipe are stainless, but the flanges were mild steel and rotted away to nothing. There's no way to install a new one-piece flange because the Y-pipe is welded together on one end, and flared for the donut seat on the manifold ends. The part number in the photo is for a 2 1/2" pipe. I think this is a Walker part number.
Last edited by Schurkey; May 13th, 2019 at 07:44 PM.
May 10th, 2019, 01:22 PM
