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So I'm re placing all of my front end suspension with PST Suspension bushings. Since everything will be torn apart by the mechanic, it also makes sense to do the disc brake conversion. So here is my question. I'm running 14X7 SSII rims. I'm doing a stock conversion as it would have been back in 1972. What size rotors should I use to be period correct but still have the stopping performance. And would it be acceptable to use slotted rotors?
And secondly I have a dual reservoir already in the car with the Delco Moran Booster. What is the correct size of the booster diameter wise for stock appearance. This is 10 inch in diameter.
Last edited by ragtopblue; May 29th, 2018 at 06:02 PM.
Stock rotors (and the largest that will fit into any SSII/III wheels) are 10.75", which everyone rounds up to 11". Do not believe vendors who tell you that you must use 15" wheels. These cars came from the factory with disc brakes and 14" SSII wheels.
Dr. Oldsmorland,
Just shows how not to trust vendors ! My Cutlass right now is all 4 drums. I'm keeping the rear drums but have a stock set up that I restored back in 2005 ! Finally time to put them on ! Thanks for the info on the Vette booster ! Do you have anyone that you can recommend for the correct Delco booster and reservoir ?
Thank you Joe for the information regarding the rotors !
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Stock booster is 11".
Stock rotors (and the largest that will fit into any SSII/III wheels) are 10.75", which everyone rounds up to 11". Do not believe vendors who tell you that you must use 15" wheels. These cars came from the factory with disc brakes and 14" SSII wheels.
That's a vette master cylinder, probably a vette booster too. Do you have rear discs as well?
Actually, it's an aftermarket "Vette-style" M/C, as evidenced by the fact that it appears to have outlet ports on both sides. The reality is that the only difference between this and a correct disk/drum M/C from a functional standpoint is the fact that the four wheel disk M/C will not have a residual pressure valve in the outlet port for the rear brakes. You can add an inline valve to accomplish the same thing.
I am in the process of updating my 1968 442 with disc brakes and would like to keep the original 14 steel rim that came with the car. Is it possible to use a set of disc brake spindles and backing plates from a 1972 Chevelle on the 442? Also, will the stock calipers and rotors (available at NAPA) cause any interference with the stock 14" rims. Would like to know before I purchase the spindles. Any help would be appreciated.
I am in the process of updating my 1968 442 with disc brakes and would like to keep the original 14 steel rim that came with the car. Is it possible to use a set of disc brake spindles and backing plates from a 1972 Chevelle on the 442? Also, will the stock calipers and rotors (available at NAPA) cause any interference with the stock 14" rims. Would like to know before I purchase the spindles. Any help would be appreciated.
These cars came from the factory with disc brakes and 14" wheels. Yes, 1972 Chevelle spindles are exactly the same as those used on a 68 442.
Your problem is that not all 14" wheels are created equal. This photo shows the two different styles of 14" wheels used in the late 1960s - your 68 could have either. The one on the left clears factory disc brakes. The one on the right does not. Outboard is to the left on both wheels.
Note the difference in the shape and location of the dip in the middle of the rim (yellow vs. green arrow). The easy way to tell if your wheels will clear disc brakes when tires are mounted is to look for the bead around the inboard side of the rim. Note the light blue arrow on the LH wheel and the lack of this bead on the RH wheel (dark blue arrow). You can see this bead from the backside of the wheel. If you don't see it, your 14" wheels won't clear.
The other side of the coin is I didnt really notice much if any difference when I converted to front disc MANY moons ago. Not worth it IMO. Properly serviced and adjusted drums do just fine. Only advantage is less adjusting to do with front discs, but you still have to pay attention to the rears. Unless you live on a mountain top or are rally racing put your money elsewhere IMO.
If you want to feel a difference do a 4 wheel drum to disc conversion.
Joe_Padavano....thanks for the reply. From what I can tell, my rims match the one on the left (at least the profile of the rim). In that I just had new tires mounted and I am painting the rims, I cannot tell if there is a bead on the inside. They definitely look more like the one on the left where the raised portion of the profile is off center and pushed outboard. Not sure if the stamped letters on the inside mean anything but there is an E and a MI8.
burnsr22,
I'm about to do my72 with front disc Brakes. I have SSII's on mine with similar off set on the interior of the rim 31/2" from bead in. I was trying to see from your picture what the measurement was. Could you let me know, car goes in Monday.
May 29th, 2018, 05:59 PM
