Has anyone converted over to a Rack and Pinion setup? And if so what are your thoughts on steering performance vs the regular setup.

 

I haven't heard of anyone doing that to an A body, but that doesn't mean that it hasn't been done. I would think it would require A LOT of surgery to the front of the frame to make it work and there are no provisions for mounting the rack. And then there is the problem of does it go in front of or behind the crossmember. If behind, how do you clear the oil pan? If in front then how to attach the steering shaft?
I think a different frame section might be the requirement to mount a rack and for most people it's just not worth it.
If they want a quicker steering ratio most people just mount a newer steering box to solve that issue.

 

Manual or power?

Here's a manual setup

http://autofabcart.net/afrc-rackandp...odybolton.aspx

 

I meant power......But maybe manual is as good? Don't know. A friend just converted His 67 Chevelle and said it was like driving a Go Cart now....Handling was supreme...Mine still drives like a boat so I was entertaining the thought of switching.

 

Well now....color me surprised.

 

The thought of installing rack and pinion steering is considered for many old cars not originally equipped. I have seen threads on more than one forum. IF it can be installed, one serious concern that comes up is bump steer. I would research carefully.

 

^^^THIS!!!

Yes, you can buy conversions for the A-body cars. I've talked to too many vendors who are absolutely clueless about bump steer and steering geometry. Unless you know exactly what you are doing, I guarantee you will make handling worse.

You can spend thousands of dollars on an R&P conversion, or spend a couple hundred to have your steering box rebuilt with quick ratio gears. Crank in a couple of degrees of positive caster angle and you'll be amazed with the handling. Of course, this ASSUMES your suspension is in good shape at both ends of the car and you have appropriate sway bars.

 

Since the Cutlass and the Chevelle are basically the same car suspension wise. You can do the same as your friends successful install.

 

What else did this friend change during the R&P install? The reality is that a properly rebuilt worm and sector box with rebuilt suspension and proper wheel alignment will handle just as well. Comparing an R&P install that had a whole lot of unrelated work done at the same time with a worn out stock setup is not a fair comparison. You don't know how much of the improvement came from the R&P, how much came from replacing those worn out components, and how much is simply the "butt G-meter" (a relative to the butt dyno) telling him that for the several thousand dollars he spent, OF COURSE he "feels" a major improvement.

 

Bump steer can break your arms. Like Joe said, the first step should be "back to factory specs". At that point, you can decide to go further. I love how my two A bodies steer.

 

I had the whole front end rebuilt including a fast ratio steering box ( BF644 AGR Billet cruiser gearbox ). I think you may be correct about the "appropiate" sway bar setup. Although mine is stock it does not address the boatiness or tight steering I'm looking for. Would a heavier duty sway bar similar to the 442 ( are they thicker? ) tighten up the suspension ( mine is the Supreme setup ) and has a smaller diameter. If so,I would like to try that first.

 

Install the largest REAR bar you can get. Stock was 7/8". Aftermarket versions go to 1.5". These cars are understeering pigs, and you actually want a larger rear bar than front bar. The 1.25" WS6 Trans Am front bar is an inexpensive upgrade to the front over even the 442 equipment. Also, the caster angle setting is very important. As I noted above, crank in as much front caster angle as the suspension adjustment will allow. 2 degrees or more will make a dramatic difference in handling and road feel.

 

Have been looking for 1.5 rear and 1.25 front. Can't find any used ones. Will any " A " body sway bar with those specs and year fit? Modifications? What years will fit the 67 cutlass...
Thanks..

 

All 64-72 A-body same sway bars interchange.

 

[QUOTE=

[url]http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-77-Chevrolet-Chevelle-Front-Sway-Bar-1-1-4-Gold-Cadmium/330657224503?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkpa rms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3 D45701%26meid%3D16d62771bd9048149f3a1faf129186a8%2 6pid%3D100005%26rk%3D5%26rkt%3D6%26mehot%3Dpp%26sd %3D2825688371497[/url]


Some list sway bar from 70 to 83 compatability .....will they work with no mods?

 

I don't know anything about ebay vendors. The factory front bars will interchange from 1964-1972. Unsure about 73-77 cars. The inexpensive way to get a 1.25" front bar is to use the front bar from a second gen WS6 Trans Am. These bolt up to the A-body but require the use of the shorter F-body end links.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/70-81-Camaro...pZZjs6&vxp=mtr

Joe...you think this will fit?

 

Yes, that's the one. I'll be honest, however. I've bought several of those at swap meets in the $25-$50 range. That's a pretty optimistic price.

Try this. Yeah, his shipping charge is high, but even then it's considerably less expensive.

 

Thanks Joe! I picked up the one I showed you for 100 delivered ....( less rust )
Am I going to need the end pieces ? end links....

 

Hey Joe ...got the Trans am front 1.25 bar...Have been looking for a 1.5 inch rear sway bar....You know anyone? Can't find.....Next best option for rear?...
Thanks........

 

Following for the info

 

You won't find any cheap factory bars that size. The largest factory rear bar was 7/8". Your only avenue is aftermarket. The aftermarket sells rear bars for the A-body in sizes from 1" on up. These are usually pretty pricey if bought new. I've been snapping up used ones that I find at swap meets and have collected a few 1.375" and 1.5" rear bars for my various projects. Sorry, there isn't an easy answer for this.