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Windshield wiper adjustment?

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Old Oct 5, 2025 | 10:18 AM
  #1  
72455's Avatar
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1972 U code Supreme
 
Joined: Jul 2018
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From: Chesapeake, VA
Windshield wiper adjustment?

So whenever I turn on my '72 Supreme wipers, they never go back to the fully "parked" position. They stop right at the top of the lower windshield trim and I have to physically "push" them down to fully "parked." It's not something I'm overly concerned about, but is there any sort of adjustment that would help this ? (Oh, and for reference, it does have hidden wipers.)
Old Oct 6, 2025 | 06:52 PM
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72455's Avatar
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1972 U code Supreme
 
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From: Chesapeake, VA
Any help or ideas?
Old Oct 6, 2025 | 06:55 PM
  #3  
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After I had my windshield replaced I had the same issue. I removed the arms and reset them one tab/groove lower so they now park as designed and the way they used to prior to the glass company removing them.
Old Oct 7, 2025 | 05:26 AM
  #4  
HydraMatic's Avatar
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From: Northern New England
Originally Posted by 72455
Any help or ideas?
The Fisher Body Service Manual has information.
Old Oct 7, 2025 | 08:32 PM
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I’m a little out of my depth as a ‘66 big car guy, but GM’s interface for the wiper arms I know was a grooved post mated to an inversely grooved cylinder on the inside of the wiper arm.

If they don’t park right, pull the wiper arms (protecting the cowl finish with a towel or other insulator. They should just pop off with a little screwdriver pressure. Just avoid marring the painted surface when you pull the arms by protecting it with a layer of something.

Then turn the wipers on and off. For fun run it through low speed and high speed if yours has 2. Then turn ‘em off with no wiper arms on ‘em.

Now your posts are set in park position.

Next put the arms back on as tight to the cowl molding as you like.

The big warning here is the posts only rotate so far. The tighter they are in parked position, the less wide the arms will go when in use. You decide what the right clock position is, optimizing between in-use coverage and parked position.

While you have the arms off the car, that’s a good time to think about replacing the springs with reproduction ones and of course the rubber blades….

Cheers
Chris
Old Oct 8, 2025 | 06:46 AM
  #6  
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You should not have to re-clock the arms on the spindles if they are installed correctly. The adjustment is at the end of the linkage that attaches to the crank arm on the motor. There are two fasteners with slotted holes. Loosen the nuts and slide the linkage one way or the other relative to the motor crank arm until they are parked correctly.




Old Oct 8, 2025 | 10:08 AM
  #7  
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From: Evansville, IN
Hey I need that advice, Joe. Thanks.
Old Oct 10, 2025 | 09:03 PM
  #8  
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I’ll stand down. My ‘66’s linkages are not adjustable to the best of my knowledge.

If you get into the linkage, a good cleaning & greasing may help them move more easily after all these years on the car. Consider going over the ball to clean it, then nudge a glob of grease (like greasing wheel bearings) into the spherical void on the arm Joe shows. Consider oiling/greasing other rotational points to keep the job on the electric motor easy.

Happy to be off-base with good intentions and, as always, learn from Joe P.

Cheers,
Chris
Old Oct 11, 2025 | 05:54 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by cfair
I’ll stand down. My ‘66’s linkages are not adjustable to the best of my knowledge.
Actually, they are, Chris, but it isn't easy. On the 65-70 full size cars, the linkage has the same adjustment provision as the one I showed, but to access it, you have to pull the driver side front fender and pop off the plastic access cover on the cowl to reach the adjustment fitting. This is shown in the wiper section of the 1966 CSM.
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