What's the ticker on the sticker?
#1
What's the ticker on the sticker?
I have come across a "new" OEM "set" of wood applique (sticker) for my '89 Custom Cruiser at what I think is an exceptionally good price. It is an exact replacement like you could buy at a dealer back in the day.
But that's the rub: This roll of sticker(s) must be at LEAST 20 years old, and while it looks beautiful all rolled up, how likely is it that an item like that could be the "restoration-grade" peel-and-stick I'm looking for? Is the glue even still good? Is it going to be wavy when layed flat after decades of being rolled up, especially if it has any "shrinkage" over time?
As far as being a deal goes, I'd have bought it in an instant regardless if it wasn't above the amount my wife would hold over me for ages if it turns out to be unusable. [NOTE TO UNMARRIED "OLD" CAR OWNERS: Do your best to avoid marrying an accountant, especially if she's never owned a car that wasn't Japanese and brand-new, and therefore thinks that if you have to spend over $200 a year on "car stuff" that your vehicle is flat broken and should be traded in... ]
Speaking of which, feel free to provide your thoughts on what a full-car (it seems like it weighs 80 pounds) replacement "wood" kit is worth. I doubt I would ever find another, but as I said, if this one is unusable, it's too big a risk.
[And yes, I asked about unrolling it, but it is (rightfully) a "you unroll it, you buy it" kind of thing, though if it is truly bad I think he'd let it slide.]
You can't just replace it in patches, so you'd have to have the whole job's worth before you start, and there is a LOT of real estate that's not just the sides but around the trim, too, and...
But that's the rub: This roll of sticker(s) must be at LEAST 20 years old, and while it looks beautiful all rolled up, how likely is it that an item like that could be the "restoration-grade" peel-and-stick I'm looking for? Is the glue even still good? Is it going to be wavy when layed flat after decades of being rolled up, especially if it has any "shrinkage" over time?
As far as being a deal goes, I'd have bought it in an instant regardless if it wasn't above the amount my wife would hold over me for ages if it turns out to be unusable. [NOTE TO UNMARRIED "OLD" CAR OWNERS: Do your best to avoid marrying an accountant, especially if she's never owned a car that wasn't Japanese and brand-new, and therefore thinks that if you have to spend over $200 a year on "car stuff" that your vehicle is flat broken and should be traded in... ]
Speaking of which, feel free to provide your thoughts on what a full-car (it seems like it weighs 80 pounds) replacement "wood" kit is worth. I doubt I would ever find another, but as I said, if this one is unusable, it's too big a risk.
[And yes, I asked about unrolling it, but it is (rightfully) a "you unroll it, you buy it" kind of thing, though if it is truly bad I think he'd let it slide.]
You can't just replace it in patches, so you'd have to have the whole job's worth before you start, and there is a LOT of real estate that's not just the sides but around the trim, too, and...
#2
I had new wood grain vinyl decals applied to my Vista cruiser a few years ago when I restored it. About any local decal/wrap/graphics shop should have a catalog with new wood grain samples to choose from. I've never had anyone call me out & say "that is not the correct grain in your fake wood grain" As long as it all looks nice & new is all that matters, at least to me.
I had some woodgrain rolls from Dodge Caravans as I used to work for a Dodge dealer ship. The restoration shop said they didn't want to chance the 20 year old+ woodgrain adhesive still being good. If you are serious about applying new woodgrain, I'd pass on the original stuff & go with a good graphics shop.
I had some woodgrain rolls from Dodge Caravans as I used to work for a Dodge dealer ship. The restoration shop said they didn't want to chance the 20 year old+ woodgrain adhesive still being good. If you are serious about applying new woodgrain, I'd pass on the original stuff & go with a good graphics shop.
#4
If you dont mind me asking, what was the cost for materials and labor? I am concerned about the job being right as, for instance, there's an almost perfect 3mm of trim INSIDE the door that follows all the contours. I'm really just treating/repairing some fuel door and fender lip rust, but I'm willing to bet it's a trim off job all over to replace the paneling, and few graphics places can do that. As always, it seems like every job gets ten times the "while we're in there..." work than the little bit you expect...
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