What size car hauler would you buy??
May 12th, 2012, 12:26 PM
#1
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What size car hauler would you buy??
Hey guys, Ive been looking at getting an enclosed hauler, to haul my car back down to fl from mich.
If you had the money, what size would you get, at 24 or 26-28 footer? Being that the cutlass is 16 (how long is the 70 cutlass'?) or so feet long, at 20 foot trailer is not going to work. I can get a 24 in Georgia brand new at cheap, but is that enough room to put in the car and anything else I need in the front of it? I dont want to wish I had a bigger trailer next year, you know what I mean?
I also think it must have a v nose, right?
If you had the money, what size would you get, at 24 or 26-28 footer? Being that the cutlass is 16 (how long is the 70 cutlass'?) or so feet long, at 20 foot trailer is not going to work. I can get a 24 in Georgia brand new at cheap, but is that enough room to put in the car and anything else I need in the front of it? I dont want to wish I had a bigger trailer next year, you know what I mean?
I also think it must have a v nose, right?
Last edited by rennoc442; May 12th, 2012 at 12:30 PM.
May 12th, 2012, 02:11 PM
#4
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I used to have a 24 footer to haul a 64 Thunderbird Convertible. I had plenty of room in front for a few things...but it depends how much else you want in the trailer. Mine had an electric winch to pull it in and let it out. Also, mine was the heavy duty suspension (6 lug wheels was the obvious tip off), rated for 11,700 pounds if memory serves me. I think the regular was only 8000 pounds. My enclosed trailer weighed about 3500 plus the T-bird almost 5000, so I was usually pulling 9500 to 10,000 pounds. You do not want a lightweight suspension trailer and you don't want a light weight truck to pull it. I pulled mine with a 3/4 ton Suburban 454 with a heavy duty towing package. A Cutlass won't be 5000 pounds, but it will be in the lower to mid 4's plus whatever else you put in there. And the ability to pull the load isn't nearly as important as the ability to STOP it, especially if you are coming down a mountain.
I saw a number of guys in the T-bird club have major problems towing distances with 1/2 ton trucks. Probably fine around town, but no fun when you are running with a pack of semi's.
I saw a number of guys in the T-bird club have major problems towing distances with 1/2 ton trucks. Probably fine around town, but no fun when you are running with a pack of semi's.
May 12th, 2012, 02:36 PM
#5
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I used to have a 24 footer to haul a 64 Thunderbird Convertible. I had plenty of room in front for a few things...but it depends how much else you want in the trailer. Mine had an electric winch to pull it in and let it out. Also, mine was the heavy duty suspension (6 lug wheels was the obvious tip off), rated for 11,700 pounds if memory serves me. I think the regular was only 8000 pounds. My enclosed trailer weighed about 3500 plus the T-bird almost 5000, so I was usually pulling 9500 to 10,000 pounds. You do not want a lightweight suspension trailer and you don't want a light weight truck to pull it. I pulled mine with a 3/4 ton Suburban 454 with a heavy duty towing package. A Cutlass won't be 5000 pounds, but it will be in the lower to mid 4's plus whatever else you put in there. And the ability to pull the load isn't nearly as important as the ability to STOP it, especially if you are coming down a mountain.
I saw a number of guys in the T-bird club have major problems towing distances with 1/2 ton trucks. Probably fine around town, but no fun when you are running with a pack of semi's.
I saw a number of guys in the T-bird club have major problems towing distances with 1/2 ton trucks. Probably fine around town, but no fun when you are running with a pack of semi's.
May 12th, 2012, 08:35 PM
#6
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no 24'
Do NOT buy a 24'....move up to a 26' or 28'.
When time comes to resell there will be ten 24' models for every one of these. If you want to have room in front of the car for cabinets & a bench & a generator, pit bike, etc etc etc then 28' is the way to go.
I own a 26' & am very happy wiith it. Plenty of room for my car & extra gear.
When time comes to resell there will be ten 24' models for every one of these. If you want to have room in front of the car for cabinets & a bench & a generator, pit bike, etc etc etc then 28' is the way to go.
I own a 26' & am very happy wiith it. Plenty of room for my car & extra gear.
May 13th, 2012, 02:08 AM
#8
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i just pulled home a 71 442 convertible in a 20 foot enclosed trailer. with the car all the way back to the door, i had just enough room in front of it to load some NOS convertible quarters in boxes. there was no room left after that. it was packed back to front. if you need more room than two foot you will need a longer one.
May 13th, 2012, 04:46 AM
#9
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I am pretty sure that length is measured from the back to the tongue where it attaches to the hitch, so a 24 has about a 22 foot box. As I said, it all depends on how much space up front you want. I had about 5 feet. That with the space in my Suburban was all I wanted. Some trailers have small kitchens and/or sleeping quarters.
What are you using to pull it? The bigger and heavier the trailer the bigger the truck you need to pull it. My 24 required the largest class hitch and up to 1000 pounds tongue weight. That requires a hitch and receiver with the bars to transfer the weight to both axles of the truck. A 3/4 or 1 ton pickup with a goose neck is the best for bigger trailers, both for stability and manuverability. You will need either a door on the drivers side or an electric winch to get the car in and out. If you do the door, you have to make sure it is in the right place so you can get in and out of the car. There isn't room to open the car door without the door in the trailer, and it needs to be in the right spot so the car will be in the right position. The car positioned a foot too far forward or back will make the trailer VERY unstable on the road and a white knuckle experience, and a wreck waiting to happen. My point is decide how much room you want and decide how much (by weight) extra you want to carry and get the one that fits your need. Then take the extra time to make sure you get the car and the extra freight positioned so the trailer is properly balanced.
What are you using to pull it? The bigger and heavier the trailer the bigger the truck you need to pull it. My 24 required the largest class hitch and up to 1000 pounds tongue weight. That requires a hitch and receiver with the bars to transfer the weight to both axles of the truck. A 3/4 or 1 ton pickup with a goose neck is the best for bigger trailers, both for stability and manuverability. You will need either a door on the drivers side or an electric winch to get the car in and out. If you do the door, you have to make sure it is in the right place so you can get in and out of the car. There isn't room to open the car door without the door in the trailer, and it needs to be in the right spot so the car will be in the right position. The car positioned a foot too far forward or back will make the trailer VERY unstable on the road and a white knuckle experience, and a wreck waiting to happen. My point is decide how much room you want and decide how much (by weight) extra you want to carry and get the one that fits your need. Then take the extra time to make sure you get the car and the extra freight positioned so the trailer is properly balanced.
Last edited by brown7373; May 13th, 2012 at 04:48 AM.
May 13th, 2012, 05:36 AM
#10
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I have a dodge megacab with a cummins, 3/4 ton, Im not worried about how much that trailer weighs. I just want to get one that will last me for a long time, and have plenty of space. I think I must get at least a 26 from the sounds of everyone. If the trailer doesnt have a driver side door, is it impossible to get in/out of the car?
I grew up using my Dads 18ft open trailer, so I know my way around hauling and making sure its set up right. This will be my first time though hauling with a truck that weighs close to 8,000lbs and has over 800ft lbs of tq, so I gota say im excited!
Here is my daily driver at work.
IMAG0748.jpg
I grew up using my Dads 18ft open trailer, so I know my way around hauling and making sure its set up right. This will be my first time though hauling with a truck that weighs close to 8,000lbs and has over 800ft lbs of tq, so I gota say im excited!
Here is my daily driver at work.
IMAG0748.jpg
May 13th, 2012, 05:40 AM
#11
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I am pretty sure that length is measured from the back to the tongue where it attaches to the hitch, so a 24 has about a 22 foot box. As I said, it all depends on how much space up front you want. I had about 5 feet. That with the space in my Suburban was all I wanted. Some trailers have small kitchens and/or sleeping quarters.
Does anyone have an idea of the overall length of a 70's cutlass??
May 13th, 2012, 07:55 AM
#15
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My Wells Cargo has a 24' box and is 28' long. I am happy with it for my 1966 (17' long). I have over 6' in front for stuff. I recommend the 2x6" box tubing frame, Dexter torflex axles. 10,000 GVW. If you go over 10K you need CDL, log books, stop at weigh stations, etc. Get the escape door where the car door will be so you can drive into the trailer.
May 13th, 2012, 07:57 AM
#16
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It has been a few years since I pwned a Pace America, and I might be incorrect if a 24 footer has a 24 foor box or it is the overall length. I do remember I had a good bit of room in the front, and it wasn't all the way to the back, because it has to be balanced over the trailer axles with a little more weight toward the front. I checked their website and the specs don't show that and their brochure downloads are under construction, so no help there.
Sounds like you have a great truck to tow with. I bought my Suburban in 1991, when they were in short supply and bigger trucks were harder to find. All the dealers were trying to sell me whatever they had on their lot, all lying about their 1/2 ton trucks ability to do what I needed. I finally found a fully loaded 14 month old 3/4 ton Suburban in Orlando in perfect shape with almost 2 years left on the warranty for about 1/2 of what a new one would cost...if you could find one. Bigger capacity trucks are much more available now.
Yes, the T-birds are very heavy cars. I have a 70 Bonneville Convertible, and although it's significantly longer, it weighs about 500 pounds less than the bird.
Once the car is in the trailer, you can't open the car door enough to get out, unless the trailer has a side door. You can crawl through the window, but unless you are real careful, you'll damage the interior or the paint. Positioning the trailer door is important so you can open the car door after you drive it into the trailer. That's why I said make sure you know where it will be tied down to properly balance the trailer. If the side trailer door isn't in the right spot, the car door won't open. And don't do what a friend of mine did. He didn't have the door go all the way to the floor, and the bottom of the car door hit the side of the trailer, under the door. You will still need a door on the other side to get to the front of the car to tie it down and for your front storage. That is why I elected to go with the electric winch to pull it into the trailer. The trailer company told me adding another door took some of the structural integrity away from the trailer. That might have been BS, but it does require them to do some custom work rather than just order a stock trailer.
Sounds like you have a great truck to tow with. I bought my Suburban in 1991, when they were in short supply and bigger trucks were harder to find. All the dealers were trying to sell me whatever they had on their lot, all lying about their 1/2 ton trucks ability to do what I needed. I finally found a fully loaded 14 month old 3/4 ton Suburban in Orlando in perfect shape with almost 2 years left on the warranty for about 1/2 of what a new one would cost...if you could find one. Bigger capacity trucks are much more available now.
Yes, the T-birds are very heavy cars. I have a 70 Bonneville Convertible, and although it's significantly longer, it weighs about 500 pounds less than the bird.
Once the car is in the trailer, you can't open the car door enough to get out, unless the trailer has a side door. You can crawl through the window, but unless you are real careful, you'll damage the interior or the paint. Positioning the trailer door is important so you can open the car door after you drive it into the trailer. That's why I said make sure you know where it will be tied down to properly balance the trailer. If the side trailer door isn't in the right spot, the car door won't open. And don't do what a friend of mine did. He didn't have the door go all the way to the floor, and the bottom of the car door hit the side of the trailer, under the door. You will still need a door on the other side to get to the front of the car to tie it down and for your front storage. That is why I elected to go with the electric winch to pull it into the trailer. The trailer company told me adding another door took some of the structural integrity away from the trailer. That might have been BS, but it does require them to do some custom work rather than just order a stock trailer.
May 13th, 2012, 08:14 AM
#17
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Sounds like you have a great truck to tow with. I bought my Suburban in 1991, when they were in short supply and bigger trucks were harder to find. All the dealers were trying to sell me whatever they had on their lot, all lying about their 1/2 ton trucks ability to do what I needed. I finally found a fully loaded 14 month old 3/4 ton Suburban in Orlando in perfect shape with almost 2 years left on the warranty for about 1/2 of what a new one would cost...if you could find one. Bigger capacity trucks are much more available now.
May 13th, 2012, 08:25 AM
#19
I have a dodge megacab with a cummins, 3/4 ton, Im not worried about how much that trailer weighs. I just want to get one that will last me for a long time, and have plenty of space. I think I must get at least a 26 from the sounds of everyone. If the trailer doesnt have a driver side door, is it impossible to get in/out of the car?
I grew up using my Dads 18ft open trailer, so I know my way around hauling and making sure its set up right. This will be my first time though hauling with a truck that weighs close to 8,000lbs and has over 800ft lbs of tq, so I gota say im excited!
Here is my daily driver at work.
I grew up using my Dads 18ft open trailer, so I know my way around hauling and making sure its set up right. This will be my first time though hauling with a truck that weighs close to 8,000lbs and has over 800ft lbs of tq, so I gota say im excited!
Here is my daily driver at work.
May 13th, 2012, 09:54 AM
#21
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My Wells Cargo has a 24' box and is 28' long. I am happy with it for my 1966 (17' long). I have over 6' in front for stuff. I recommend the 2x6" box tubing frame, Dexter torflex axles. 10,000 GVW. If you go over 10K you need CDL, log books, stop at weigh stations, etc. Get the escape door where the car door will be so you can drive into the trailer.
May 13th, 2012, 01:57 PM
#22
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That Cummins sure beats my 454. It could pull it fine but the best I EVER got running with no trailer at 55-60 was 11 mpg. When I pulled my T-bird I got about 7 1/4 mpg. Mine is an old truck (1989) at this point. I used it for towing in the 90s. My Burb is still the standard heavy duty turbo 400 transmission anmd 3.73 gears no lock up and no overdrive.
May 13th, 2012, 05:11 PM
#23
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My buddy Tony Schumacher has a 26' enclosed car hauler for sale...it's super nice. He only wants $8,000 for it...2 years old. Cost $12K originally.
He added some goodies to it as well...I have pics but they are on my phone.
He added some goodies to it as well...I have pics but they are on my phone.
May 13th, 2012, 05:21 PM
#24
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My Wells Cargo has a 24' box and is 28' long. I am happy with it for my 1966 (17' long). I have over 6' in front for stuff. I recommend the 2x6" box tubing frame, Dexter torflex axles. 10,000 GVW. If you go over 10K you need CDL, log books, stop at weigh stations, etc. Get the escape door where the car door will be so you can drive into the trailer.
- Any single vehicle with a gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR), actual weight, or registered weight over 26,000 lbs. or such vehicle towing a vehicle with a GVWR, actual weight, or registered weight of 10,000 lbs. or less.
- Any combination of vehicles with a gross vehicle weight rating (GVWR), actual weight, or registered weight over 26,000 lbs. provided the GVWR, actual weight, or registered weight of the towed vehicle(s) is more than 10,000 lbs.
- A vehicle transporting hazardous materials in amounts requiring placarding.
- A vehicle that is designed OR used to transport 16 or more passengers, including the driver
May 14th, 2012, 09:40 AM
#25
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Different states interpret the "commercial" threshhold differently. To be safe most places, I kept the trailer GVW at 10,000. In Iowa, I still have to stop at the weigh stations because they interpret the rules that if either or both together exceed 10,000 you have to stop. Florida gets real difficult if trailer length exceeds 28'.
May 14th, 2012, 12:47 PM
#26
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Texas is a little far, unless that's not where Tony is?
May 14th, 2012, 03:58 PM
#27
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Different states interpret the "commercial" threshhold differently. To be safe most places, I kept the trailer GVW at 10,000. In Iowa, I still have to stop at the weigh stations because they interpret the rules that if either or both together exceed 10,000 you have to stop. Florida gets real difficult if trailer length exceeds 28'.
June 28th, 2012, 09:47 AM
#28
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I am going to order the 24 foot V nose trailer from Dixon trailer comp. I am going with a drive side escape door, upgrading the axles to the 5200lb, and thinking of what other options I need. I see there is an option to have the side vents installed too, is this a good idea to keep the temps inside somewhat cooler, as I do live in florida?
I am also going to have them (for only $75) brace the front roof so in the future I can add a roof ac unit.
I am also going to have them (for only $75) brace the front roof so in the future I can add a roof ac unit.
June 28th, 2012, 10:01 AM
#30
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How long is an a body anyways?
June 29th, 2012, 09:56 AM
#31
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You may want to ask this, on the Detroit based "3ballsracing.com" site, as several there are using enclosed auto haulers. I've seen a couple for sale, and some may even be able to rent you one. Not sure what size event organizer Kenny's is, but it's a darn nice twin axle job, with side door he can fit two smaller sports cars in, back to back. Really good guy, and surely he could give you some good advice on this. Not sure what kind of power arrangement his has, but some have small living quarters, generators, A/C, ext.
July 4th, 2012, 08:46 AM
#32
There were a few posts about commercial status, CDL, etc. The main thing to keep in mind is Federal Motor Carrier Safety Regulations only apply if the vehicle or combination is used in commerce; in other words, for business purposes. If you're operating solely for personal non-business-related activities, the vehicle is not subject to CMV regulation. However, requirements for commercial driver license and for stopping at weigh stations are set by the states.
Driver license classifications are based on federal requirements, but states may differ slightly. Generally, CDL requirements kick in at 26,001 pounds GVW. (Actual weight or GVWR, whichever is greater) Reciprocity between states allows you to operate your vehicle in other states if you are properly licensed in your home state.
Pay attention to the signs when approaching weigh stations. They generally indicate the vehicle types and at what weight you are supposed to enter. Err on the side of caution. In 29 years in the business, I've never gotten upset with anyone who entered the weigh station when they weren't required to.
I guess I felt like rambling this morning...
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