What are the most important question to ask when buying a 1971-1972 cutlass

 

Verify engine size, transmission type, condition of car, matching numbers, and rust issues. These are basics that I use when looking at Oldsmobiles. I like to buy them in running condition so I can drive and restore at same time until the big tear down.

 

how long have you had it
do you have any other parts to go with it
is the title in your name

i find more title issues with these old cars than anything else.

 

If you know what the car basically is the first question should be "When can I look at it?".
They can tell you things all day but you can't believe a word they say.
It can be from ignorance or by deception, it doesn't matter, you have to see it yourself and know what you're looking at, caveat emptor.
Rust and crash repairs or damage would be my biggest concern, then you get into originality and what was done and how.
You can only take their word on what was done to the engine unless they had a shop do it and have receipts for the work and parts.
One reason I prefer cars that have never been messed with, you know what you got to start with.
I hate trying to figure out or fix some other guys screw-ups.

 

#1 most important - Clear, not gray or salvage title!!!! Does he have a history of owners and all repairs, receipts are great! If you are mechanically impaired, bring someone who is very knowlegable in the workings of an old car. Many people get an inexpensive paint job, freshen the interior, clean the underside and paint it, and detail under the hood and call it restored. There is a very long list of very expensive and inexpensive items that will bust a budget. All these items affect what the car is really worth!!!!

 

Will you take $500?

 

Sorry about diverting from the thread but had to mention one of my all time favs that buyer sometimes ask: Will this car make it around the world without any problems?

 

did i ask that, lol. i do recall asking if you felt comfortable with it making it to Indiana.

 

All suggestions above are great.
You never mentioned if it was a convertible or not. If so, open the trunk and look all through it, and lift up the back seat and look under it. Look for bad/leaking conv. top cylinders and or plastic lines. Make sure the conv. drip rail is in good condition b/c a new one will set you back $180. Also a new conv. top motor will set you back more than $200. Make sure everything operates and of course--no leaks.
Also, bring a magnet so you can check for covered rust (under bondo).

 

make sure the frame is good, at the hangers I think thats what its called , part infront of the door...

 

Ask him what he attempted to fix. So you know where to look when something goes wrong. With mine there were 2 problems rust which I saw and new about. Then a bunch of little hack jobs from previous "fixes".
Larry

 

The frame, rear quarters, and front fenders for rust. Also check to make sure it does not leak. A lot of dashboards have rust in them, and the back windows can be pretty prone to leaking. Mine was anyway....

 

How much?Can I test drive it?

 

Frame,frame,frame,frame, or your feeding a dead horse!!

 

I agree, most GM cars of this era were prone to these problems. Unless your handy with a welder, I would go with a rust free example or one with very little rust. Otherwise, it can be very expensive to repair, and you'll probably spend more money on it than it will be worth.

 

I just bought mine and that bitch leaks.. Not much tho.

 

Im thinking of buy this one, any comments

 

Nice engine whats the rest of the car look like?

 

My .02
Ask yourself,
" how much am I willing to go in debt to get it where I want it to be. "

Then start building a parts list for everything so you know what you're getting into.
Also remember gas prices when considering a 455 vs 350 or another option.
Consider an overdrive 2004-R or 700R4 transmission with OD.

 

Check deep inside the trunk and if it leaks fix it immediately. Front fenders may be holed low behind the the tires, that would be acceptable to me if the rest of the car is clean. My 70 cutlass was essentially rust free everywhere except two small holes on each fender where leaves probably collected. The fenders were easily removed and fixed. I had a 71 Caddy with the same, spotless everywhere except for silver dollar sized holes in the same spot under the trim.