What the H@##????
#1
What the H@##????
So looking under my '68 442 ( a year after complete front end build) I noticed this! There is a residue all over the front end. Seems to be the same as the acid residue build up on a battery cable. I have never seen this before. Any guesses what is going on? Thanks!
Craig
Craig
#2
first guess would be your battery has over charged and boiled over, or the case is split.
can we see pics of the battery tray corner? check the battery case condition and the charging system operation.
can we see pics of the battery tray corner? check the battery case condition and the charging system operation.
#4
Let me back up with a little history. Bought a new voltage regulator when i rebuilt the car. It buzzed and the alt light came on below 1500 rpms. I put the old one back in (it worked fine just thought new would be better) In the mean time I have hooked up an aftermarket stereo system and connected the amps positive wire to the horn relay (where the secondary red wire attaches from the battery) The radio and amp work fine until you rev it or drive it. The amp cuts out when you accelerate. I've checked the grounds they are fine. Anyways I'm thinking this might not be a good place to get power.
I sprayed the contaminated areas with baking soda and water and it fizzed so it must be coming from the battery. I opened it up and it was a little low but not in the about you would think if it was leaking. I did notice some droplets on the side of the battery. Like an overcharging situation.
I have probably given too much info but want to figure it out.
Thanks guys for the replies!
Craig
I sprayed the contaminated areas with baking soda and water and it fizzed so it must be coming from the battery. I opened it up and it was a little low but not in the about you would think if it was leaking. I did notice some droplets on the side of the battery. Like an overcharging situation.
I have probably given too much info but want to figure it out.
Thanks guys for the replies!
Craig
#6
I haven't measured the voltage. I will do that. I swapped out the spring ring battery terminal connector and bought a multi input clamp. Started the car, revved it and the amp didn't cut out. Still weird about the battery residue. I will monitor it.
Thanks for the advise!
Craig
Thanks for the advise!
Craig
#10
Yep, learned the hard way. It is a Bosh battery and I've had nothing but trouble with them. On another note. My amp cutout is back, thought I fixed it. It is weird. Time to break out the volt meter!
#13
Ok, so I took a voltage reading at the amp. It is varying between 12 and 17 volts. The amp cuts out after 14. Must have a sure protector built in. Voltage regulator? This is the same regulator I had on the car before I rebuilt the engine and it worked fine. I don't have the grounding straps on it. The car has the negative terminal at the block as well as the secondary negative wire connected to the front rad housing. Do I need to ground it more? The rest of the car seems fine, voltage wise. The lights don't flicker.
Craig
Craig
#15
Will ground the firewall and check the voltage at the battery and reply. I assume that i will have the same voltage surge at the battery as the amp.
Stay tuned!
Thanks!
Craig
Stay tuned!
Thanks!
Craig
#16
Craig if the alternator and voltage regulator have bench tested OK and all the engines charging systems grounds are present clean and accounted for Id start looking at the amp.
You may need to step up on the alternator output, as in a larger alternator. What does the sound systems amp electrical requirement call for? A 55 amp alternator may not have enough azz to keep up with the aftermarket goodies load requirement. Commonly, a stock alternator does not have enough output for modern hi draw goodies and requires a high out put alternator.
Do you have a solid state VR or a Analog point OEM style?
You may need to step up on the alternator output, as in a larger alternator. What does the sound systems amp electrical requirement call for? A 55 amp alternator may not have enough azz to keep up with the aftermarket goodies load requirement. Commonly, a stock alternator does not have enough output for modern hi draw goodies and requires a high out put alternator.
Do you have a solid state VR or a Analog point OEM style?
Last edited by droldsmorland; August 28th, 2015 at 07:31 AM.
#17
I think the problem with the battery acid leak and the amp is an overcharging problem. I think I am going to get a solid state VR and try that. My VR in the car is an original mechanical points type. I am running a 600 watt 4 channel amp with 6.5 speakers in front and 6x9's in the back, nothing crazy just trying to get as much sound in a convertible.
Thanks,
Craig
Thanks,
Craig
#18
Just kidding. Did the same things in the 80's. Continued until '07, then stopped when my son told me a 50+ guy shouldn't be trucking around in a van with 18" subwoofers in it.
#21
The reading at the amp surges to 17 volts when accelerating and my battery leaking problem seems to be an overcharging problem. Seems like a VR problem not the amp don't you think?
Craig
Craig
#26
Eric nailed it! Glad we all could help!
Craig Id still want to see what the alternators amperage output looks like under full system load, headlights, blower, wipers, with the thumper blasting tunes at idle, hot etc.... If your on or beyond the rating for the alternator you will be right back where you started. A good alternator shop can up the amperage rating of the alternator to look stock as well. Something to think about before the gremlins start their relentless work.
Craig Id still want to see what the alternators amperage output looks like under full system load, headlights, blower, wipers, with the thumper blasting tunes at idle, hot etc.... If your on or beyond the rating for the alternator you will be right back where you started. A good alternator shop can up the amperage rating of the alternator to look stock as well. Something to think about before the gremlins start their relentless work.