Using more gas than usual..🤔
Using more gas than usual..🤔
Hey all I've noticed that lately my '72 U code Supreme is getting less mpg than normal. Up until recently I was able to run back and forth to work (about 50 miles round trip) and burn about 1/4 tank. Now I'm using almost 3/4 of a tank for the same trip. It's running fine with no issues, no leaks and I've made no adjustments. It has an HEI and I also have an inline filter between the pump and the carb, so even though it's running good, maybe I need a new filter? It's been about 2 years and about 6K miles since I put the filter on, and I always go to the same gas station and only run 93 octane.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
I assume you have confirmed that it is the fuel being used, and not a gauge freaking out suddenly. I think you've got a leak. Since you would have said if it is dripping in your garage, I am going to guess a "leaks under pressure only" leak at or after the fuel pump. Recommend backing her out on driveway and looking at fuel pump and lines. That's a hell of a leak, though, to use that much fuel.
I assume you have confirmed that it is the fuel being used, and not a gauge freaking out suddenly. I think you've got a leak. Since you would have said if it is dripping in your garage, I am going to guess a "leaks under pressure only" leak at or after the fuel pump. Recommend backing her out on driveway and looking at fuel pump and lines. That's a hell of a leak, though, to use that much fuel.
Last edited by 72455; Mar 14, 2021 at 06:13 PM.
The fuel filter has zero influence on fuel economy. I suppose if it was clogged to the point the engine won’t run would drastically improve the mpg, but only on a tow truck.
Assuming the fuel gauge is accurate, the problem should be easy to find. That’s a bunch of gas for such a short trip.
Fill the tank, record the odometer reading. Make a couple round trips to your work, fill it back up. Divide miles driven by the gallons needed to fill it back up. Then, assuming your speedometer is accurate, you will know what the fuel economy actually is.
Btw, fuel gauges aren’t linear. I can fill the tank on my car, and drive a 100 miles and the gauge reads 3/4. Another 125-150, it’s empty.
Im guessing your going to find a leak. For the economy to nose dive like that with no noticeable change in the way the car drive the gas has to be going somewhere.
Which brings up another possibility, pull the oil dipstick. Make sure the oil doesn’t smell like gas, or is now reading overfilled. if so, the fuel pump diaphragm has split, and its dumping fuel into the oil pan.
Assuming the fuel gauge is accurate, the problem should be easy to find. That’s a bunch of gas for such a short trip.
Fill the tank, record the odometer reading. Make a couple round trips to your work, fill it back up. Divide miles driven by the gallons needed to fill it back up. Then, assuming your speedometer is accurate, you will know what the fuel economy actually is.
Btw, fuel gauges aren’t linear. I can fill the tank on my car, and drive a 100 miles and the gauge reads 3/4. Another 125-150, it’s empty.
Im guessing your going to find a leak. For the economy to nose dive like that with no noticeable change in the way the car drive the gas has to be going somewhere.
Which brings up another possibility, pull the oil dipstick. Make sure the oil doesn’t smell like gas, or is now reading overfilled. if so, the fuel pump diaphragm has split, and its dumping fuel into the oil pan.
The fuel filter has zero influence on fuel economy. I suppose if it was clogged to the point the engine won’t run would drastically improve the mpg, but only on a tow truck.
Assuming the fuel gauge is accurate, the problem should be easy to find. That’s a bunch of gas for such a short trip.
Fill the tank, record the odometer reading. Make a couple round trips to your work, fill it back up. Divide miles driven by the gallons needed to fill it back up. Then, assuming your speedometer is accurate, you will know what the fuel economy actually is.
Btw, fuel gauges aren’t linear. I can fill the tank on my car, and drive a 100 miles and the gauge reads 3/4. Another 125-150, it’s empty.
Im guessing your going to find a leak. For the economy to nose dive like that with no noticeable change in the way the car drive the gas has to be going somewhere.
Which brings up another possibility, pull the oil dipstick. Make sure the oil doesn’t smell like gas, or is now reading overfilled. if so, the fuel pump diaphragm has split, and its dumping fuel into the oil pan.
Assuming the fuel gauge is accurate, the problem should be easy to find. That’s a bunch of gas for such a short trip.
Fill the tank, record the odometer reading. Make a couple round trips to your work, fill it back up. Divide miles driven by the gallons needed to fill it back up. Then, assuming your speedometer is accurate, you will know what the fuel economy actually is.
Btw, fuel gauges aren’t linear. I can fill the tank on my car, and drive a 100 miles and the gauge reads 3/4. Another 125-150, it’s empty.
Im guessing your going to find a leak. For the economy to nose dive like that with no noticeable change in the way the car drive the gas has to be going somewhere.
Which brings up another possibility, pull the oil dipstick. Make sure the oil doesn’t smell like gas, or is now reading overfilled. if so, the fuel pump diaphragm has split, and its dumping fuel into the oil pan.
Im going to take a different tack here. Holeshots and runs to 100, maybe a little more throttle here n there, i think your just more used to the car and dont mind wringing it out abit. I get 10 ish w mine 455 n qjet burnouts, wot, general hooligan driving ( on a closed course w a professional driver
im sure i could do better but thats not really why i like to drive.
im sure i could do better but thats not really why i like to drive.
Im going to take a different tack here. Holeshots and runs to 100, maybe a little more throttle here n there, i think your just more used to the car and dont mind wringing it out abit. I get 10 ish w mine 455 n qjet burnouts, wot, general hooligan driving ( on a closed course w a professional driver
im sure i could do better but thats not really why i like to drive.
im sure i could do better but thats not really why i like to drive.
Winter gas is suspect, i noticed my last fill on my daily the pump had a sticker on it that said from 11-1 to 3-1 this pump dispenses oxygenated fuel.
w no significant changes ie driving habits temps routes my mpg has increased by about 7.5%
w no significant changes ie driving habits temps routes my mpg has increased by about 7.5%
When you checked the plugs did you inspect the wires? I've always had problems with GM vehicles burning the ends of the plug wires. My work truck I wrapped the ends of the wires with asbestos paper because I couldn't find insulators locally. The rubber would burn to a point where it was arcing against the exhaust manifold.
It's not so much a winter thing as it is an emissions thing. The EPA mandates oxygenated fuel in many large metropolitan areas, and I'm sure California uses it nearly everywhere.
The oxygenated fuel thing came in before computer-controlled cars. It was intended as a way to "trick" the carb into running leaner in the winter when the choke was closed more frequently. Anyone who understands how carburetors work (which pretty much eliminates anyone in government) would understand that this also defeats the purpose of having a choke in the first place, which makes the car run crappy. Of course, computer controls and O2 sensors completely negate the effect of oxygenated fuel because the ECU changes the A/F ratio to accommodate the leaner fuel. Again, don't expect anyone in government to understand this. Of course, the oxygenated fuel thing morphed from an emission control tool to an agricultural subsidy, so it isn't going away anytime soon.
Don't confuse summer and winter gas blends with oxygenated (ie, ethanol-laced) gasoline. There have been winter and summer blends of gasoline forever, long before there was ethanol added. The aromatics are changed depending on the seasonal temperature to make the gas easier to atomize in the cold or less likely to vapor lock in the heat.
The oxygenated fuel thing came in before computer-controlled cars. It was intended as a way to "trick" the carb into running leaner in the winter when the choke was closed more frequently. Anyone who understands how carburetors work (which pretty much eliminates anyone in government) would understand that this also defeats the purpose of having a choke in the first place, which makes the car run crappy. Of course, computer controls and O2 sensors completely negate the effect of oxygenated fuel because the ECU changes the A/F ratio to accommodate the leaner fuel. Again, don't expect anyone in government to understand this. Of course, the oxygenated fuel thing morphed from an emission control tool to an agricultural subsidy, so it isn't going away anytime soon.
The oxygenated fuel thing came in before computer-controlled cars. It was intended as a way to "trick" the carb into running leaner in the winter when the choke was closed more frequently. Anyone who understands how carburetors work (which pretty much eliminates anyone in government) would understand that this also defeats the purpose of having a choke in the first place, which makes the car run crappy. Of course, computer controls and O2 sensors completely negate the effect of oxygenated fuel because the ECU changes the A/F ratio to accommodate the leaner fuel. Again, don't expect anyone in government to understand this. Of course, the oxygenated fuel thing morphed from an emission control tool to an agricultural subsidy, so it isn't going away anytime soon.
It may be the gas causing the issue. I've noticed all my cars get worse milage in the winter. I have been running non ethanol gas now for about a month, and despite the colder temperature and winter weather, my milage has gone up significantly. I was getting about 13mpg with my 455 Cutlass on 10 percent ethanol mix cruising conservatively at 60 mph. Under approximately the same conditions, I just got 16 mpg using ethanol free gas. Another thing I noticed is my fuel gauge would peg out at the hot indicator light when full and drop like a stone after about 100 miles. After the first tank of ethanol free gas, the guage read just slightly above the F when completely topped off and there was not drop off, just a steady accurate reading. I've heard ethanol can gum up the fuel system. I'm wondering if real gas can do the opposite to the fuel gauge contact.
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joepenoso
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Jul 19, 2013 12:44 PM



