Ok I'm in the process of putting some shiney new Willwood disc brakes on my 72 Cutlass as I'm ripping through why not replace this and that Control arm bushings, ball joints, spindles, backing plates, general clean and seal anything I can reach. Now I'm working with limited space in a tight 24X20 garage with a pair of 72 Cutlass's( not sure how to write plural Cutlass s)in various stages of undress. tough even jacking one up to work on but I deal with it. Now lower ball joint pain in the *** but finally popped it from the arm, be damned if I can get the spindle off the ball joint. I will eventually but there has to be a easier way. Shouldn't your spindle lift right off after the top ball joint is out. Don't have half the tools that you mechanics have I have construction tools so I'm now cutting it off with a cutting wheel. Please tell me this is not normal and my next three the spindle will slide right up leaving just the ball joint to get pressed thru. Couldn't even use a ball joint press this time since the spindle was in the way. If this is the norm I have a couple cars for sale.

 

Although I always use a BFH to separate that joint, there are tools for that purpose:

 

Fork like Eric shows is inexpensive an effective. Once you cut tha spindle than what? New spindles?

 

You just hacked up a factory disc brake spindle?

That's $50 down the drain.

 

Have a pickle fork and also had two new spindles ($35ea Jegs) ready to be installed. Laughed at the fork The problem was never getting the ball joint out I'm just not sure why this spindle won't budge from the ball joint. Will finish cutting it off after work tonight.

 

Don't confuse original spindles with the Chinesium ones sold today.

 

I'm sure not exactly the same but looks pretty good to me. Same weight same welds. Jegs claims made in USA don't have a choice now. Tried everything to get it off heat, large pry bars, lubrication etc. will see what happens on the other side.

 

I'm a bit confused by this. I always have to use a tool to separate the ball joint from the spindle before I can then remove the ball joint form the control arm.

No, the upper and lower ball joints both have a shaft that is a taper fit into the spindle and must be removed using a fork or other tool.


I also don't understand why you are cutting the spindle instead of the ball joint shaft.

 

Do you have the lower control arm sitting on the jack? Almost looks like it in your first photo. If so, you're missing out on the power of the coil spring helping push the components apart.


Even then, I usually seem to have to rely on the pickle fork and a 5lb hammer. The BFH rap on the side of the spindle never seems to work for me.

 

Agreed. Additionally, removing the lower ball joint first leaves the weight of the spindle on the upper ball joint, which helps to separate it and also keeps the spindle from flopping around while you're working.

 

Welds??? They are forged spindles. There had better not be any "welds". And the lowest strength crappy steel has exactly the same density and thus the same weight as the highest quality steel. That isn't a measure of strength or quality.

 

This is the easiest way to remove a ball joint:

 

I always used two hammers. Place one on one side and use the other to strike the opposite side. One is the anvil in this case. Works every time.

 

I use 3-5# hammer, I find an area thats clear for a good swing and release my grip a little just as it makes contact.

 

I'll try those tips when I tackle this job over the winter. In the meantime hopefully they benefit smash!

 

I put stands under frame. Remove joint to spindle nuts, then reinstall the nuts until the top of the stud is even with the top of the nut. Break the bottom loose, then the top. Jack the lower a- arm up taking the tension off the nut and remove. The spring tension helps it all pop apart.

 

The problem with your way Patrick is that there is a chance of the assy blowing apart. If the nut fails and the spring simultaniosly expands, it may lead to a catastrophic shock mount failure and the spring blowing out of the pocket. I prefer just supporting the car on the lower control arms with jack stands.

 

Sorry OC, we will have to agree to disagree here. Having a full nut width of threads verified to be good by removing then reinstalling the nut will be fine. However, having the jack an inch or so below the arm may be a good idea, as you will need it anyway to jack up and remove tension on nut when the joint breaks free.
Taught this way and did many over the years. Without using the spring tension makes it a frustrating, hard and slow process.

 

WOW!!! A big hammer will knock it loose and if that does'nt work a bigger hammer and so on. Try driving the fork in real tight and then a big hammer. You can rent a fork at AutoZone or other parts stores. Please, next time ask before cutting as in construction, measure twice cut once!!! Dennis

 

That's how I do it. I guess I should say having the jack there is more than just a good idea and should be a mandatory part of the procedure for the safety aspect oldcutlass mentioned. As you said, you gotta jack the control arm up anyway so have the jack in place beforehand.

 

All good tips and most of them is how I started. What everyone saw was my last desperate effort after all else failed. I actually believe the car was hit possible on the spindle the ball joint appeared to be bent. And no matter what I did cutting it off was my last resort. Will send a follow up picture sealed everything last night hopefully get cracking on the new stuff tonight.

 

That's exactly what I did but also had the jack under the spring compress a little let off a little as the project needed.