cargo442

replacing it soon. would you recommend an original type or the roller type . what brand?

not very knowledgable about them. whats the difference, if really any in an original engine?

thanks

DeltaPace77

Quite honestly, dont think it really matters. When I built mine, put a Cloyes double roller set on it, but mostly just on other peoples say so. If your engine has the nylon quiet cam gear, probably a good idea getting rid of that. Most local auto store sets should be fine.

Redog

When I got my Olds engines I replaced the timing sets with double rollers. I used the Summit Brand. I forget which brand is identical to it, but it wasa good brand.

I always set mine at zero on the crank. It can be set to 3* adv, or 3* retard, but zero is easier

w-30dreamin

Use the Cloyes brand.

cargo442

i hope i'm not in over my head with a timing set replacement, but what does the last part of your post mean. i take it its not a matter of taking off the old and putting in new. thanks

64Rocket

I have found the Cloyes true roller to be the most accurate.

The other brands can be off by alot. With out decreeing the cam, can you be sure it is at zero (straight up) or is it 3* retarded or maybe 6* advanced. I'm saying the other brands are always off. If you don't degree, it is a crap shoot.

Gene

DeltaPace77

If you're pretty decent with a wrench, you should be fine. If dont already, getting a repair book on your cars a really good idea with pictorials and such. You're normally wanting to install the set with the gear marks straight up(or"0"), but some timing sets have additional shaft keyways to advance or retard valve timing a bit, some tuners like. Your wanting a harmonic balance puller, and can rent one. Mine's a JC Whitney generic job, and works fine. For the crank bolt, you can prop a breaker bar against the floor with some pipe, and hit the starter. Good idea changing the front seal while you're at it. A repair book will show you all this. Good luck.

Redog

It's not really hard to do, it's just a PIA to do with the engine in the car. It can be done in the car though, but it's best to remove the rad and a/c condensor (if you have one) first.

Yes like everybody said, there is a keyway on the set. Some sets like the Summit set I have you can go advanced or retard on the crank but not the cam. Some sets you can do both.

Everything is marked. There is a dimple on the cam gear and on the crank gear. These two marks will meet in the middle at TDC

74 Omega

Here are the marks you should be looking for.
Kinda hard to see, but you will notice them at 12:00 & 6:00 positions

New motor 104.jpg

New motor 107.jpg

cargo442

thanks to all that replyed. i am getting all my parts together at the moment, soon to start.

greenslade

just installed a comp cam 2113 timing set,the gear on the crank was a pita to remove.had to remove the key to get the gear off,the slot in the gear was not cut completly through the gear, and it won't slide over the key.you will also need a new timing cover gasket and water pump gasket.both dots on the gear should be at 12 o'clock position if on #1 tdc.if you don,t have a impact gun a rubber mallet works well for hitting wenchs to loosen bolts.take pictures of every thing as you take it apart,

Bill in NC

If you will be using an aftermarket timing set that has 3 (or more) different positions on the crank gear, take the time to study the marks carefully when installing the set. Picking the wrong mark will result in bad engine performance and you having to do the job all over again. Double and triple check yourself before you button it up. Good luck man.

64Rocket

Greenslade, The cam gear dot is at the 6o position and the crank gear dot is at the 12:00 position with #1 piston at TDC..........................................

Gene

Indy_68_S

....in apartment parking lot...in the rain..

Been there....

I'll just agree with what others have said & add : Make sure you have all the stuff you'll need first : gear puller, new seal/gaskets, coolant, etc.. & go slow...

cargo442

thanks again to everybody. it stays in a garage so i have all the time in the world to work on it. i can do the job but have to admit the timing set has me a little worried. i just want to install it correctly.

will the cam turn easily when the chain is removed? should i mark its position?

i didn't think about the seal. after the old one is out do you just tap in the new one.

greenslade

just checked my service Manuel,it says when marks are at the 6 and 12 position then # 6 is at tdc,rotate the crank 1 rotation this will put cam mark at top and # 1 Cly will be firing position.am i missing something,i believe firing position is tdc.

DeltaPace77

Maybe shouldn't say anything, as probably just add to the confusion. As mentioned, best to install the timing set straight up at total zero for street use, and be fine. The set will likely be a few degees off, but usually close enough. I always dial mine in with a degree wheel and offset cam bushings though. To scare you a little more, some cam grinds have a bit of advance into the design. To educate a bit, a bit of cam advance for low rpm street use is usually preferable. For high rpm drag strip usage, some prefer to retard a bit. I'd just set everything at zero, and be good to go.