Is there one and two piece drums for 1970 Cutlass?
Is there one and two piece drums for 1970 Cutlass?
I have a spinning front stud, which I assumed needs replacement. Saw two different Dorman studs, different lengths and knurls, one for a one piece drum, other says a two piece drum. Is this right. I tried separating my drum from the hub when I did the shoes, did not want to come apart. So mine is a one piece apparently.
ALL 1970 Cutlass drums are two piece, the hub and the drum. The distinction is between drums that are retained to the hub with the pressed-in studs and the drums that can be removed from the hub while still on the car. As noted, primarily Chevy used the slip-off drums. Olds used studs with longer knurls that also pressed into the drum as well as the hub. This retained the drum to the hub, requiring the wheel bearings to be removed to remove the drum.
ALL 1970 Cutlass drums are two piece, the hub and the drum. The distinction is between drums that are retained to the hub with the pressed-in studs and the drums that can be removed from the hub while still on the car. As noted, primarily Chevy used the slip-off drums. Olds used studs with longer knurls that also pressed into the drum as well as the hub. This retained the drum to the hub, requiring the wheel bearings to be removed to remove the drum.
I have a spinning front stud, which I assumed needs replacement. Saw two different Dorman studs, different lengths and knurls, one for a one piece drum, other says a two piece drum. Is this right. I tried separating my drum from the hub when I did the shoes, did not want to come apart. So mine is a one piece apparently.
These studs should be original. I will jack it up and see if it is flush in the hub on the back. Not sure how it came loose, not broken in any obvious way. Looks like I bought the right studs, pic shows the longer knurl and larger knurl vs the two piece. I agree Koda, annoying to **** around with bearings get at the brakes. At least I know now if I want replace the drums, beat the studs out.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; Sep 4, 2025 at 08:30 AM.
I can only think of three reasons for press fit drums onto wheel studs.
1. They did some sort of spin balancing and wanted to permanently clock the hub to the drum in a way that would most beneficially angularly balance the pair.
2. They wanted to precisely locate the drum radially, more so than, or instead of, locating off the hub hole.
3. They did not want the drum to fall off the car when the wheel was off for servicing.
I toured a Bosch factory in 03. I asked the engineer giving us engineering students a tour, what the point of the little shim sheet metal washer was on the one lug, the one that guys who are very fastidious would always put back. He said they were there to keep the drum on during the spin test they did as part of quality control for the knuckle assembly and served no purpose once the wheel was on and bolted down.
1. They did some sort of spin balancing and wanted to permanently clock the hub to the drum in a way that would most beneficially angularly balance the pair.
2. They wanted to precisely locate the drum radially, more so than, or instead of, locating off the hub hole.
3. They did not want the drum to fall off the car when the wheel was off for servicing.
I toured a Bosch factory in 03. I asked the engineer giving us engineering students a tour, what the point of the little shim sheet metal washer was on the one lug, the one that guys who are very fastidious would always put back. He said they were there to keep the drum on during the spin test they did as part of quality control for the knuckle assembly and served no purpose once the wheel was on and bolted down.
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