To Swap or Not To Swap....That is the ?
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
To Swap or Not To Swap....That is the ?
1969 Cutlass convertable......Original engine and trans. Runs nice. Still strong. Here is where the question comes in.......Got a pretty fresh 330 hp crate engine from our good friends at the GM Performance Shop. Starting a restoish project on it this winter. Should I stick with the original L74 or drop the somewhat disposable Chevy engine in it? Thoughts? And while we're at it, I'm kicking around if I stick with the Olds engine doing an HEI swap. Experiences?
#2
Welcome to CO
To schools of thought here. Most of us are die hard Olds forever fans and would not put a non Olds engine in our cars. There is a forum on the site for non Olds power Oldsmobile's. You can explore the big block and small block sites for more information on the Oldmobile builds. As you can see by my aviator and sig line I am all Oldsmobile. I would leave a convet all Oldsmobile if it were mine.
#4
Nice running orginal motor convertible. No brainer - sell the chevy or use it in another application. Use the money for HEI and other projects on the Cutlass as-is. I'm OK with some conversions but this one sounds like it should remain Olds to the core. Your car....your choice....at least save the original motor.
#5
Put whatever you want in the engine bay that brings YOU the owner, the most enjoyment.
One word of advice.....
If it's a number matching car, have the car appraised before you decide to sell the Olds powertrain.
See if it's worth a whole hell of alot in present condition. Ask the appraiser about the engine swap.
If it's not, put whatever you want in the engine bay and drive it.
Worst case scenario, just keep the original motor and trans if it's worth something.
My personally I set my cars up how I want them to be.
Both of my classics are custom pro-touring with LSX powerplants and will be worth a hell of alot more then before.
One word of advice.....
If it's a number matching car, have the car appraised before you decide to sell the Olds powertrain.
See if it's worth a whole hell of alot in present condition. Ask the appraiser about the engine swap.
If it's not, put whatever you want in the engine bay and drive it.
Worst case scenario, just keep the original motor and trans if it's worth something.
My personally I set my cars up how I want them to be.
Both of my classics are custom pro-touring with LSX powerplants and will be worth a hell of alot more then before.
Last edited by Aceshigh; August 23rd, 2011 at 03:18 PM.
#6
I believe I speak for everyone when I say keep your original engine and donate the other one to a worthy cause, like my "I Need An Engine For My '89 Custom Cruiser Fund."
I cannot promise a tax deduction, but I CAN say it will help someone in need.
I cannot promise a tax deduction, but I CAN say it will help someone in need.
#8
Now there is a thought!!! LOL!
#9
#10
330hp isn't a very hard to reach mark with just a cam and spring swap
on an Olds 350 with the right heads.
I'm sure the 1969 has the 5A or 6 heads so it wouldn't be hard.
Over 400hp though, and you're pushing it into not very street friendly
because of those heads that are not very conducive to breathing well.
(180cfm tops @ .550 lift iirc)
At the end of the day, it really depends on your FINAL goal here.
If 330hp is your only goal, without concern for anything else, the Olds is fine.
Just depends on how much work it needs.
If it's solid, keep it and put the $$$ into a built 200-4R and drive the car more.
Last edited by Aceshigh; August 23rd, 2011 at 07:46 PM.
#11
I posted quick from my phone. What I was trying to get at but didn't was the original motor is not close to 330hp and without a rebuild you're not there That the chevy motor is right there, ready to go in. I don't know how many miles on the original rocket motor but to put new heads, cam, springs into the original motor, well you're looking at a rebuild. While the chevy is right there and needs nothing, seems like a no brainer to me. Swap it in, use it and spend the money somewhere else for now. If in 5 years the chevy crate motor is acting up, or you want more, then rebuild the olds motor at that time. Or sell the crate engine, and put it towards the rebuild cost.
#12
I posted quick from my phone. What I was trying to get at but didn't was the original motor is not close to 330hp and without a rebuild you're not there That the chevy motor is right there, ready to go in. I don't know how many miles on the original rocket motor but to put new heads, cam, springs into the original motor, well you're looking at a rebuild. While the chevy is right there and needs nothing, seems like a no brainer to me. Swap it in, use it and spend the money somewhere else for now. If in 5 years the chevy crate motor is acting up, or you want more, then rebuild the olds motor at that time. Or sell the crate engine, and put it towards the rebuild cost.
I have no problem with chevy motor swaps myself- if made for the right reasons. But I hate to say this, but I sure wouldn't do it just to get ~330hp. A basic rebuild & performance cam would get you to those power levels. Hell my motor came with 310hp from the factory in 1966... not exactly stretching the limit of HP.
If you are going to go through the trouble of putting in a chevy motor, then at least make it something worth while power or driveability-wise. Something that you can't make an olds motor do w/o spending a fortune or blowing up. For 330hp? No way....
#13
The car is worth more to a collector about 20k plus in restored condition by what nada guide says. A 350 chevy swap will bring down the price. A swap to a new LSX or other new performance engine would bring down the price less. Every one and their brother puts 350 chevy engines in cars from fords to jags. Stay with the rocket put on a good after market intake and a new carb and will wake it up.
Last edited by 72 cutlass455; August 24th, 2011 at 11:27 AM. Reason: chevy added
#14
Bottom line: it's less work to pull the Olds motor, clean it up a bit and make a few minor modifications, then put it back, than it is to pull the Olds motor, make the changes needed to install the Chev., and put that motor in, and afterward you've still got an original car with a strong value.
... And if you don't like the answer you got here, go ask the same question on a Chev. board .
- Eric
... And if you don't like the answer you got here, go ask the same question on a Chev. board .
- Eric
#15
Leave it Olds. I recently saw a cutlass badged as a 442 and when I walked around the front and looked at the engine, it was a chevy small block. That ruined the car for me.
Not that I have any problem with the chevy engine, I have a chevy truck with a small block that has 284K miles on now. I just am not a fan of the "crossbreeding"
Not that I have any problem with the chevy engine, I have a chevy truck with a small block that has 284K miles on now. I just am not a fan of the "crossbreeding"
#16
#17
You won't find many pro-touring LSX powered Oldsmobiles out there.
They're rare, and they're becoming in demand for a niche market.
Prices in excess of $90,000 on some I've seen depending what's been done.
Not all will go that high, but it most definitely increases value of the dime a dozen Cutlasses.
I'm talking market prices.
This is a 1972 Malibu bought for less then $7,000 and sold with an LSX / OD manual for $18,000
http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/vehicl...icagoland.html
Last edited by Aceshigh; August 24th, 2011 at 01:40 PM.
#18
Something just dawned on me ......
I do believe most of the Crate motors you buy today are rated with no accessories on them. That makes them SAE Gross HP ratings, not Net HP ratings like you see in vehicles sold from the factory after 1972.
I don't know what a 1969 Cutlass 350 had for horsepower, but I'm thinking
it had to be 250hp SAE Gross rated to maybe 300hp.
So technically speaking this new Chevy motor is 330hp SAE Gross rated
and that makes it only 30-80hp more or less depending on the Olds true rating.
So in that case, no it's not worth the swap.
I do believe most of the Crate motors you buy today are rated with no accessories on them. That makes them SAE Gross HP ratings, not Net HP ratings like you see in vehicles sold from the factory after 1972.
I don't know what a 1969 Cutlass 350 had for horsepower, but I'm thinking
it had to be 250hp SAE Gross rated to maybe 300hp.
So technically speaking this new Chevy motor is 330hp SAE Gross rated
and that makes it only 30-80hp more or less depending on the Olds true rating.
So in that case, no it's not worth the swap.
Last edited by Aceshigh; August 24th, 2011 at 07:32 PM.
#19
[Soapbox warning]
I've been hot rodding since the early 80's. Make that the mid 70's, if you count me rebuilding and super-tuning the carb on my minibike when I was 11.
For a given octane, you can only run a certain amount of cylinder pressure before you lose control of the ignition point.
Carburetors don't atomize the fuel as well as a good injection system, and that reduces the pressure threshold.
Iron heads reduce it even further.
Port & chamber designs from the 60's and 70's (old school) reduce it even further.
If you are building an extreme racing motor, yes, there are benefits to using a Chevy (or even some Ford) motors. But for mild daily-driving, NONE of the Old School motors really have any distinct advantage over the others.
As such, I HIGHLY urge you to sell the crate motor and use the money to update/rebuild your stock motor. Add a hydraulic roller cam and a FAST EZ-EFI system, and you'll think you motor grew by over 50 inches.
The ONLY motor, IMHO, that has enough benefits (weight, reliability, performance AND economy) to even be considered for a swap into an Olds are "LS" type motors. I have a chassis dyno and have been able to see the capabilities of these motors first-hand - and there are BIG differences between these and ANY of the Old School motors.
Lee
I've been hot rodding since the early 80's. Make that the mid 70's, if you count me rebuilding and super-tuning the carb on my minibike when I was 11.
For a given octane, you can only run a certain amount of cylinder pressure before you lose control of the ignition point.
Carburetors don't atomize the fuel as well as a good injection system, and that reduces the pressure threshold.
Iron heads reduce it even further.
Port & chamber designs from the 60's and 70's (old school) reduce it even further.
If you are building an extreme racing motor, yes, there are benefits to using a Chevy (or even some Ford) motors. But for mild daily-driving, NONE of the Old School motors really have any distinct advantage over the others.
As such, I HIGHLY urge you to sell the crate motor and use the money to update/rebuild your stock motor. Add a hydraulic roller cam and a FAST EZ-EFI system, and you'll think you motor grew by over 50 inches.
The ONLY motor, IMHO, that has enough benefits (weight, reliability, performance AND economy) to even be considered for a swap into an Olds are "LS" type motors. I have a chassis dyno and have been able to see the capabilities of these motors first-hand - and there are BIG differences between these and ANY of the Old School motors.
Lee
#20
[Soapbox warning]
I've been hot rodding since the early 80's. Make that the mid 70's, if you count me rebuilding and super-tuning the carb on my minibike when I was 11.
For a given octane, you can only run a certain amount of cylinder pressure before you lose control of the ignition point.
Carburetors don't atomize the fuel as well as a good injection system, and that reduces the pressure threshold.
Iron heads reduce it even further.
Port & chamber designs from the 60's and 70's (old school) reduce it even further.
If you are building an extreme racing motor, yes, there are benefits to using a Chevy (or even some Ford) motors. But for mild daily-driving, NONE of the Old School motors really have any distinct advantage over the others.
As such, I HIGHLY urge you to sell the crate motor and use the money to update/rebuild your stock motor. Add a hydraulic roller cam and a FAST EZ-EFI system, and you'll think you motor grew by over 50 inches.
The ONLY motor, IMHO, that has enough benefits (weight, reliability, performance AND economy) to even be considered for a swap into an Olds are "LS" type motors. I have a chassis dyno and have been able to see the capabilities of these motors first-hand - and there are BIG differences between these and ANY of the Old School motors.
Lee
I've been hot rodding since the early 80's. Make that the mid 70's, if you count me rebuilding and super-tuning the carb on my minibike when I was 11.
For a given octane, you can only run a certain amount of cylinder pressure before you lose control of the ignition point.
Carburetors don't atomize the fuel as well as a good injection system, and that reduces the pressure threshold.
Iron heads reduce it even further.
Port & chamber designs from the 60's and 70's (old school) reduce it even further.
If you are building an extreme racing motor, yes, there are benefits to using a Chevy (or even some Ford) motors. But for mild daily-driving, NONE of the Old School motors really have any distinct advantage over the others.
As such, I HIGHLY urge you to sell the crate motor and use the money to update/rebuild your stock motor. Add a hydraulic roller cam and a FAST EZ-EFI system, and you'll think you motor grew by over 50 inches.
The ONLY motor, IMHO, that has enough benefits (weight, reliability, performance AND economy) to even be considered for a swap into an Olds are "LS" type motors. I have a chassis dyno and have been able to see the capabilities of these motors first-hand - and there are BIG differences between these and ANY of the Old School motors.
Lee
I agree with the opinions toward the LS swaps, these are great for the Folks who are after the performance and the modern tech of todays powertrains!
I had a BBC fall into my lap, so there are exceptions for an old school swap. Believe me this 468/T400 will outperform my 330/4v - ST300 anyday!! I considered rebuilding all my stock original components, however in this particular situation, it was not cost effective!
I do feel the tear forming under my right eye to take part in such debauchery in performing the worst Olds mortal sin, however I will go to the nearest Olds shrine (a closed Olds dealer) and pay penants and pray for forgiveness!!
These are other peoples cars with their own personal visions! Just because they have different opinions than others on this forum, does not make it wrong! I agree we can present the facts, and they can make an educated decision for their particular situations!
I can't stand the hateful, disrespectful, and derogatory statements made by others toward other members here!! It's a disgrace!!
Just my .02!!!!
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