When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I heard a loud noise at an attempted start up on my 69 442 but has a 71 455 engine. It didn't start and sounded like the starter exploded, it has a new battery so I pulled it and it tested fine. I did notice a crack and I'm wondering if this crack could be the cause? Is it possible the crack has the starter unbalanced causing the noise?
I heard a loud noise at an attempted start up on my 69 442 but has a 71 455 engine. It didn't start and sounded like the starter exploded, it has a new battery so I pulled it and it tested fine. I did notice a crack and I'm wondering if this crack could be the cause? Is it possible the crack has the starter unbalanced causing the noise?
Absolutely. That needs replaced before it does explode & fall off. Not sure what caused it (metal fatigue?, poor metal alloy?). Whatever....
When the drive gear (pinion) connects into the flexplate/flywheel, there's significant torque applied which can easily cause the housing to go South on you in a hurry. Don't know the manufacturer. Whoever is the manufacturer, the starter requires replacement for many reasons.
Unless it's replaced, you could be looking at this in the not too distant future....
Was the brace installed in addition to the two mounting bolts? I'd suggest having the starter rebuilt locally vs a big box store. The nose will have to replaced it isn't repairable. Continued use will damage the teeth on the flex plate, then the transmission has to come out. Starter bolts may need to be replaced also, they help to align the starter. If they are worn excessively it will affect the starter alignment.
Last edited by Sugar Bear; May 26, 2025 at 12:43 PM.
This is an older starter? Not new chinesium right? I don't know if that's allowed to be said here but I guess I'll find out. I have never had a starter do this.
I don’t have a brace, just the two bolts. I’m replacing with a remanufactured Delco remy from carquest, that’s all I could get today being Memorial Day. It should be fine I’ve used these many a time. Never had a problem car starts up all the time, I had this happen on my BB Buick years ago and still using same reman starter.
So I got the starter in, installed new positive and negative cables, battery is only a month old fully charged and no start. It’s almost like the flywheel is stuck. Starter engages but can’t turnover the car almost sounds like not enough power but it’s there.
I started the car last month first try like always, let it run awhile, sounded great, then shut it down. Today was my first try since then and this happens. Plenty of fuel pressure, battery tested again with load and plenty of power.
There was only two wires for the starter, the battery and s terminal. I thought that was odd, didn’t they have a fuse able link? Isn’t there supposed to be a ground to back of the starter? I didn’t see any burnt or hanging wires. It does have MSD ignition, and there is power to lights.
I’m starting to think that noise was something else, yikes.
It’s almost like the flywheel is stuck. I started the car last month first try like always, let it run awhile, sounded great, then shut it down. Today was my first try since then and this happens.
Hmmmmm. Here's a suggetion - remove all of the spark plugs and then check to see if the engine will turn over.
The bolts are knurled and help to properly position the starter in relation to the ring gear. If the bolt fit is sloppy in the starter nose the bolts should be replaced.
No bracket/brace can also contribute to a cracked starter nose. The braces are available, you may also need the brace bolt kit.
Could rotate the engine using a large screwdriver on the flex plate gear, be careful not to chip the teeth.
So I got the starter in, installed new positive and negative cables, battery is only a month old fully charged and no start. It’s almost like the flywheel is stuck. Starter engages but can’t turnover the car almost sounds like not enough power but it’s there.
I started the car last month first try like always, let it run awhile, sounded great, then shut it down. Today was my first try since then and this happens. Plenty of fuel pressure, battery tested again with load and plenty of power.
There was only two wires for the starter, the battery and s terminal. I thought that was odd, didn’t they have a fuse able link? Isn’t there supposed to be a ground to back of the starter? I didn’t see any burnt or hanging wires. It does have MSD ignition, and there is power to lights.
I’m starting to think that noise was something else, yikes.
When you removed the starter you did not write down or take a photo of the positions of the wires as they were installed before you removed it?
Ground for starter is obtained via starter being mounted to the iron engine. Since you have MSD I don’t believe you have a resistance wire which then equates to two wires remaining - Purple and Yellow, I believe.
I didn’t need to just the positive and s terminal pretty straightforward.
I’ll check connections again, but I was slow and careful routing the wires. I can always try the screwdriver test.
OK just to close this up, I had two issues. The first was the new battery I bought is bad, seems to drain quickly even when not connected. Second the new negative ground cable is not the correct gauge, I need at least a one gauge and had a two on it, but also needed to be tightened a bit more. It started with a battery charger on it.
Also I don't like the sound of this new starter, any recommendations? I was thinking power master?
I second the mini-starter. I put them in all my high hp stuff. Especially in the old stuff that tends to run a bit warm and causes issues for starters. Once you get one of these you will not look back. (except for maybe thinking how great it works)
In my experience the two most common issues which result in the nose cone cracking/breaking are: (1) misalignment & (2) misalignment.
I guess, but it only goes in one way unless you mean adding shims. It was starting fine and then this morning in the middle of starting it just started spinning. The old starter was in there for years without issues or shims. I understand rebuilt starters are a new cast and sometimes shims are needed, but again it was working without any funky noises.
I guess, but it only goes in one way unless you mean adding shims. It was starting fine and then this morning in the middle of starting it just started spinning. The old starter was in there for years without issues or shims. I understand rebuilt starters are a new cast and sometimes shims are needed, but again it was working without any funky noises.
As has been mentioned: (1) Use a brace. There's a reason the brace was designed to support the starter solenoid to the engine; (2) Clean the threads well very, very well & install with new knurled starter bolts.
1. New re-manufactured 9.999 of 10X today = chineasium landfill junk...exhibited in post #1 & 20-21
2. Nothing will survive if the starter is not installed properly and or the flywheel/flex plate is bad.
Have you looked at the pinion gear engagement on the flywheel. Physically actuate the solenoid manually and check gear mesh. Is the flywheel/flex plate in good condition? Bent, missing teeth etc.
3. Get an old GM starter have it rebuilt by a local rebuilder. Anything else you purchase stands a great chance of being land fill....mini or full size.
This is the proper support bracket for a 69 442 and a 71 455.
Last edited by droldsmorland; Jun 1, 2025 at 08:03 PM.
I didn’t realize the brace was a factory piece since mine didn’t have one, obviously sometime in its history it was removed. Thanks for all the information and pictures. Honestly I believe it’s just a bad piece, I can do pull up’s on the starter it’s so tight, but I get it. About fifteen years ago the starter on my BB Buick did the same thing and I replaced it with a rebuilt one, and it’s still in there, no brace no shims. I’ll get to the bottom of this, thanks again for your help. I’ll keep posting updates for possible future problems that may happen with other members. So much good information here.
I had this issue once with a 455. First starter broke the nose cone off when I attempted to crank it once. Figured no big deal, it's old.
I went an bought a new starter and installed it. It immediately broke the nose cone as well. Third starter would not turn the motor over.
I started pulling plugs to see if it would spin it with no compression. One cylinder had antifreeze pour out when I removed the plug.
The culprit was hydro lock due to a headgasket/head issue.
I had this issue once with a 455. First starter broke the nose cone off when I attempted to crank it once. Figured no big deal, it's old.
I went an bought a new starter and installed it. It immediately broke the nose cone as well. Third starter would not turn the motor over.
I started pulling plugs to see if it would spin it with no compression. One cylinder had antifreeze pour out when I removed the plug.
The culprit was hydro lock due to a headgasket/head issue.
Hope that is not your issue..
Wow, that's interesting, did you notice smoke from the exhaust?. Was your oil milky also? I was thinking of doing that after the second starter didn't turn, but it did start and run after a good ground and charge.
I hadn't noticed smoke from the exhaust. The car sat in the garage a while since the last time I had ran it and may have gradually filled the cylinder.
