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I see in the assembly manual that the starter is supposed to have a bracket. Is this needed? Mine has no bracket, I see no place to bolt one to the starter.
Do you guys use one?
There were two different ones. The single bar below required a hole drilled into the side of the starter motor. Not all starters have this hole. I'm not coming up with a photo of the other style, but found both are in the Fusick catalog page 58. I don't remember for sure, but the wide one may also require a hole in the starter. Not sure why some have it and some don't, but it won't hurt to have the extra support. The wider one can also shield some heat from the exhaust to the starter motor.
My car doesn't have one either, but if you want to add one back in, it is very easy to drill and tap a hole in the starter case. Starters are very easy and simple to disassemble, and after doing so, you can see where to drill so as not to ruin a field coil. I've done it to my starter to add the small bracket for the clutch return spring.
I see in the assembly manual that the starter is supposed to have a bracket. Is this needed? Mine has no bracket, I see no place to bolt one to the starter.
Do you guys use one?
If your starter has been replaced you may have one from a diffetent application maybe even pontiac or buick....if thats the case you wont have hole in the starter or the hole will be smaller. You can still use the starter without that strap bracket
My car doesn't have one either, but if you want to add one back in, it is very easy to drill and tap a hole in the starter case. Starters are very easy and simple to disassemble, and after doing so, you can see where to drill so as not to ruin a field coil. I've done it to my starter to add the small bracket for the clutch return spring.
Or....tack a nut (5/16-18 or 1/4-20 maybe?) to the starter case. Helpful if you have the full clutch return spring setup, but your starter has no hole & you don't want to pull the starter out...
While not always necessary, I would rate that strap as fairly important. Leaving it off is sloppy and unprofessional. Not that I have never done that.
It serves as a torque strap or sorts, and GROUND CONDUCTOR. It is not unheard of for the starter to fail to operate w/o that ground conductor. It's a good support for a heavy item also.
Needed? Not usually...
Should be present? Absolutely.
The factory actually did not put on a lot of parts that serve no purpose and can be done without.
While not always necessary, I would rate that strap as fairly important. Leaving it off is sloppy and unprofessional. Not that I have never done that.
It serves as a torque strap or sorts, and GROUND CONDUCTOR. It is not unheard of for the starter to fail to operate w/o that ground conductor. It's a good support for a heavy item also.
Needed? Not usually...
Should be present? Absolutely.
The factory actually did not put on a lot of parts that serve no purpose and can be done without.
I am missing something... The starter is grounded to the block with the mounting bolts and the strap is mounted to block also not frame. How does that help ground?...there isnt really an interference in ground with the starter bolts, the strap for extra weight support I follow
What happened, probably more often than not, was when the original starter went belly-up, the shop that put in a replacement starter didn't use the bracket because the replacement starter (which could have been a rebuild from almost any GM division car) didn't have the hole in the starter casing where the bracket bolts into. The car will operate just the same without the bracket. Olds is the only GM division I've seen that even used such a bracket. I also have a '70 GTO and a '71 Corvette and they don't have that bracket.
Another thing that has come up regarding that bracket (for '68 and '69, anyway) is that there are two different kinds - one that is a narrow strip of metal (part number SBS645A in the Fusick catalog) and one that is a wider piece (part number SBS645 in the Fusick catalog and referred to as the "starter bracket shield", applicable to 72-77). The one on my '68 was missing when I put it together and, since I had an original starter, I wanted to have that bracket as well. In determining which piece to use, I looked at my '69 4-4-2, which is essentially in its original state and has all of its original pieces. And the bracket on that car (a Fremont car) is the one that Fusick says is applicable to 72-77 model years. The '69 has 96K miles on it and it's reasonably evident that the starter has never been off the car. Accordingly, what I'm suggesting is that the "starter bracket shield" was used prior to the 1972 model year, contrary to what is indicated by Fusick. As well, the "starter bracket shield" is what I bought from Fusick and put on my '68 4-4-2.
Anyway, if you have a non-original starter, chances are the hole won't be there for the starter bracket.
I am missing something... The starter is grounded to the block with the mounting bolts and the strap is mounted to block also not frame. How does that help ground?...there isnt really an interference in ground with the starter bolts, the strap for extra weight support I follow
Actually, you are missing something. The starter nose is aluminum, the body is steel. Galvanic corrosion between steel and aluminum can significantly increase resistance to the starter windings, compounding the typical hot start problem. Keeping the strap in place provides a ground path that's all steel, avoiding any galvanic corrosion issues.
What happened, probably more often than not, was when the original starter went belly-up, the shop that put in a replacement starter didn't use the bracket because the replacement starter (which could have been a rebuild from almost any GM division car) didn't have the hole in the starter casing where the bracket bolts into. The car will operate just the same without the bracket. Olds is the only GM division I've seen that even used such a bracket. I also have a '70 GTO and a '71 Corvette and they don't have that bracket.
Another thing that has come up regarding that bracket (for '68 and '69, anyway) is that there are two different kinds - one that is a narrow strip of metal (part number SBS645A in the Fusick catalog) and one that is a wider piece (part number SBS645 in the Fusick catalog and referred to as the "starter bracket shield", applicable to 72-77). The one on my '68 was missing when I put it together and, since I had an original starter, I wanted to have that bracket as well. In determining which piece to use, I looked at my '69 4-4-2, which is essentially in its original state and has all of its original pieces. And the bracket on that car (a Fremont car) is the one that Fusick says is applicable to 72-77 model years. The '69 has 96K miles on it and it's reasonably evident that the starter has never been off the car. Accordingly, what I'm suggesting is that the "starter bracket shield" was used prior to the 1972 model year, contrary to what is indicated by Fusick. As well, the "starter bracket shield" is what I bought from Fusick and put on my '68 4-4-2.
Anyway, if you have a non-original starter, chances are the hole won't be there for the starter bracket.
Randy C.
It is clear from the '72 edition of the Parts Catalog that '70-'72 was transitional for the starter "brace" with new 1" and 4.62" versions. All '70s getting the 1", and '71-'73 350s getting the 1" and 455s getting the 4.62"
All '65-'69 V8s get the "old" thin strap.
All of the pre-'71 illustrations I find show a narrow brace.
Randy, I know nothing is for sure here, but it does not appear the wide bracket existed until 1971.
(Being a Fremont car should not come into play as all the engines were assembled in Lansing.)
Actually, you are missing something. The starter nose is aluminum, the body is steel. Galvanic corrosion between steel and aluminum can significantly increase resistance to the starter windings, compounding the typical hot start problem. Keeping the strap in place provides a ground path that's all steel, avoiding any galvanic corrosion issues.
well thats a first for me I never saw any corrosion between the starter and block before.... but it does make sense
well thats a first for me I never saw any corrosion between the starter and block before.... but it does make sense
I was actually referring to corrosion between the starter nose and the starter body around the stator coils. I have seen corrosion there, particularly when I lived in MA. This is the same problem you see on alternators, particularly the CS130 series, between the aluminum end frame where the voltage regulator is mounted and the iron stator core. In the case of the CS130, this is why you need a separate ground path (either a bracket or a strap) from the rear frame to the block.
I was actually referring to corrosion between the starter nose and the starter body around the stator coils. I have seen corrosion there, particularly when I lived in MA. This is the same problem you see on alternators, particularly the CS130 series, between the aluminum end frame where the voltage regulator is mounted and the iron stator core. In the case of the CS130, this is why you need a separate ground path (either a bracket or a strap) from the rear frame to the block.
ok that does make sense similar to when home builders went to cheaper alum wire with steel connectors and then started to wonder why houses were burning down. now what do the other gm corps use as a ground for the starter Randy C mentioned no straps for GTO or vette ?
The wide brace also used the hole in the starter case. Here are a few, including an NOS early brace, and an early brace with genuine Lansing dirt and grease, lol.
well thats a first for me I never saw any corrosion between the starter and block before.... but it does make sense
My experience was like this
trying to sell a car- 76 Pontiac with the Olds V8 thx to me
Leave off PITA strap after 30m of messing with trying to get at that upper bolt.
Girl comes back, "it won't start"
I JUST put that starter in! Had it apart, looked at everything. Painted the case.
"I'll fix it, no worries"
Pull starter, bench tests fine.
Reinstall, w/o the PITA strap of course, NO WORKEE.
Remove, bench test fine
Reinstall, NO WORKEE
WTH?!?!
I have wifey hold key to START while I tap it with a Ford Tool [hammer]
SPARKS at case to nose.
Paint/ oxidation prevented electrical path.
Installed strap, works perfectly, buyer is happy, happy ending for all.
The wide brace also used the hole in the starter case. Here are a few, including an NOS early brace, and an early brace with genuine Lansing dirt and grease, lol.
I know this is an old thread but can this brace be installed with the starter in place ( room enough to attach the top bolt to the block). Does anyone have a pic of the correct heat shield for a 69 350/455 ?
I have stock exhaust but still have the hot start issue so I'm not sure if my issue is heat shield, strap or solenoid related as also discussed here.
Those starter braces for BBC and SBC are still available from GM. They were current up to the switch to the "mini starters", Permanent Magnet Gear Reduction (PMGR) around 1994-ish.
Fairly certain that EVERY GM division used some variation of the starter brace/bracket, not just Olds and Chevy--but they'd be different parts for each engine family; and potentially different mounting locations on the starter case.
The Chebby starters have a threaded extension on the long through bolt that goes from end to end on the starters.. My '69 GMC has a brace, my long gone '64 SS had a brace and my '77 Vette has a brace.
My starter was prone to 'heat soak' from the exhaust pipe located next to the starter. I eventually came across an 'Olds-type' starter with the mounting stud already attached to the case. This served as a mounting point for the larger mounting strap that also serves as a heat shield for the starter. I've experienced no more heat-soak since changing to this set-up. You might look for a starter rebuild shop in your area, to see if they have any starters with the mounting stud on the case.
Last edited by oldsonharmont; Nov 17, 2020 at 09:05 PM.
Both the thin strap & the larger heat shield style are interchangeable, plus the shield style also has the hole in it for the clutch return spring. I think the heat shield didn't come out 'til '73 or so. Your '69 would have had the thin strap. We put on the "shield" style on my buddies '70 W31 since he was running headers, we've had no heat soak problems what so ever! Like others have said you can drill the hole(5/16"-18 thread) in the side of the starter, just be careful you don't drill into the windings. I've done a couple over the years including the rebuilt one that came on my '68 442. I lucked out about 5 yrs ago, I needed one for another 442 & got a real nice rebuilt one from Autozone, of all places! It had the hole for the bracket & a brand new nose piece, I was shocked at how nice it was!!
