Splash guard staples
#1
Splash guard staples
Friend of mine is trying to install those splash guards on red front fender wells but the staple breaks off. He drilled holes to feed the staples through and then bend them over but they break on the crown of the staple. There is a thread on here about this but couldn't find it searching. Anyone remember the thread?
They are breaking where the pen is pointing.
#2
If they are breaking, then I would say that they are defective. Probably too hard of a metal. I know that some of the 1960 Chevy guys have been using stainless steel round stock, and bend their own staples. Put them into the holes, and hammer them flat. The only ones that I have done recently are the staples on my 1964 Corvair Spyder, and the staples that came with the rubber, were fine, and easy to bend over. Try a Google search and you might find more information as to what others are doing for staples.
#3
Are you referring to this one:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ash-seals.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ash-seals.html
#4
Thanks, that's the one
i used the wrong search words. We went to Ace Hardware and he bought music wire. Gonna try that. Will let you know if it works. He's got a real 442 1970 and wants it to look close as possible.
#7
I did some cruising of other forums, looking for what others have done with other GM products, concerning these flaps. Here is what I have found...
comment on whether they are stapled to the inside or outside of the fender inner pan...
Here is what was recommended to me. Select - 16 Gage, 0.051 Inch Diameter x 143 Ft. Long, 302/304 Safety Lock Wire
MSC# 31980147
$15.73 ea. https://m.mscdirect.com
Others have recommended 14 gauge copper electrical wire, painted silver. Seems that everyone has their own favorite method and type of material for replacement staples.
Junkman
I used 3M black trim adhesive to help hold the seal in place and act as a sealant against water. The seal has been place for 17 years.
I use stainless steel welding rod and cut and bend my own for the inner fender flaps and for the reveal molding strips.
All so they will never rust and they are much longer than the staples that come with the flaps and the horizontal reveal molding strips.
All so they will never rust and they are much longer than the staples that come with the flaps and the horizontal reveal molding strips.
The A-arm dust shields were fitted from inside the wheel well,
Mine were the original ones that were installed & stapled to the engine bay side.
Different assembly line workers were very good at finding ways to make their job easier so you'll find that at different plants some assembly practices can vary a bit. Put yours back together the way they were originally and don't let anyone give you any crap about them being wrong.
I use mechanics wire. Cut longer than needed, bend into "U" shape. Insert through inner fender and seal. With side cuts, Cut to correct length and bend over.
I have made my own with mechanics wire. Bend the wire around a pliers to form a "U" shape the same width as the holes in the sheet metal. Line things up...push the "U" shaped home-made staple through the seal and the sheet metal, cut to length with a side cut and bend/roll over with a needle nose pliers.
I purchased .051 stainless safety wire from Skygeek to use as staples
MSC# 31980147
$15.73 ea. https://m.mscdirect.com
Others have recommended 14 gauge copper electrical wire, painted silver. Seems that everyone has their own favorite method and type of material for replacement staples.
Junkman
#8
I did my 68 442 a while back. It was a PITA to get the staples through the rubber into the same spots on the original wheel wells. The supplied staples were not a problem with my Kit. I think it was ordered through Year One. I am currently installing the same stapled style flaps on a 68 vette. The only difference is that the staples are thinner and are pierced through the fiberglass inner fenders vs plastic. I gave up yesterday as there's no way I'm spending that amount of time on a driver car. There is another option. This craptastic staple design changed on the late 68 through at least the 78 vettes. What they changed was; the dust flaps are hole punched around the perimeter and use the plastic push in fasteners to secure it. You line the flap up where you want it then drill through those holes and voila'. Much easier and cleaner. Some of the staples in this vette were so far off in a few spots they either missed the rubber or were too close the edge of the fiberglass. To mimic the factory holes made zero sense in my case. I wasn't about to attempt new holes in 48-year-old glass let alone trying to force a thin staple through both. Love to see the tool used to do this. So I just ordered the late 68s with the push in's. The push-in fasteners are available from Corvette Central if you interested and don't care about originality. I suppose one could use the Christmas tree style push-ins as well. Im not 100% sure but I think you push them in from the engine bay side so all you see is the head in the bay. That'd make sense. I'm posting this Q on the NCRS website next.
#11
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