Special socket?
Registered User
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 2,262
From: Northern California
My ‘66 big cars need a 7/16”s 12 point socket on that bolt. The bolt/nut combination is a 24 threads per inch. I think it’s 5/16’s, but it may be 3/8’s
I was just redoing a column on my ‘66 big cars so this memory is fresh.
I’d recommend a couple of things:
1) If you’re putting a new rag joint in, fabricate & install a ground strap. The latter day metal-suspended-in-rubber replacements don’t work as well as the manufacturers think. Without the strap you can wind up with an inconsistent horn or other electrical connections that need a solid column ground.
2) If you’re pulling the column, or if you can get at the carefully machined parts, use a dremel with a wire wheel to clean the splines on the column end so that the rag joint and that iron part you have in the picture above mate easily and without binding. Clean the inner splines inside the rag joint connector too, if you can.
3) While you have the dremel out, wire wheel the seat and at least 1 or 2 ground points on that iron rag joint connector to ensure a good ground to the column. Get rid of the greasy crap and have them slightly shiny so that in case you need to ground to them, they’re clean enough to make a good electrical connection.
4) Measure the size and thread pitch of the grip joint pictured above. Then run both the bolt and nut threads through a tap & die to make things easier and tighter when reassembling
5) If you can’t find the correct torque spec for that grip joint bolt, use 35 ft-lbs. If you can find the torque spec, use it. Rag joint bolts generally need 20 ft-lbs. It’s your steering, when in doubt, be sure it’s tight.
I’m no expert, but I hope these suggestions help, or at least give you a few things to consider. Good luck from here.
Chris
I was just redoing a column on my ‘66 big cars so this memory is fresh.
I’d recommend a couple of things:
1) If you’re putting a new rag joint in, fabricate & install a ground strap. The latter day metal-suspended-in-rubber replacements don’t work as well as the manufacturers think. Without the strap you can wind up with an inconsistent horn or other electrical connections that need a solid column ground.
2) If you’re pulling the column, or if you can get at the carefully machined parts, use a dremel with a wire wheel to clean the splines on the column end so that the rag joint and that iron part you have in the picture above mate easily and without binding. Clean the inner splines inside the rag joint connector too, if you can.
3) While you have the dremel out, wire wheel the seat and at least 1 or 2 ground points on that iron rag joint connector to ensure a good ground to the column. Get rid of the greasy crap and have them slightly shiny so that in case you need to ground to them, they’re clean enough to make a good electrical connection.
4) Measure the size and thread pitch of the grip joint pictured above. Then run both the bolt and nut threads through a tap & die to make things easier and tighter when reassembling
5) If you can’t find the correct torque spec for that grip joint bolt, use 35 ft-lbs. If you can find the torque spec, use it. Rag joint bolts generally need 20 ft-lbs. It’s your steering, when in doubt, be sure it’s tight.
I’m no expert, but I hope these suggestions help, or at least give you a few things to consider. Good luck from here.
Chris
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
