View Poll Results: sensor & carb problem?
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sensor identification, and carb problem!
#1
sensor identification, and carb problem!
Hi, everyone! I'm a proud owner of a 1984 oldsmobile delta 88 307 vin Y engine. The problem I'm having is, (check engine light) trouble code: 15. I think I've replaced the right or wrong sensor, because my problem still exists. I've attached a photo of three sensors. The sensor, with the 2-black wires coming from it, is the sensor that I replaced (Closest to rubber fuel line). I'm trying to identify the other sensor, to the left of the one that I replaced. (with the black electric tape). I've unplugged the sensor for a better view and for someone to identify it!
Did I replace the right sensor?
Is the other sensor (to the left of the replaced sensor) is coolant level sensor?
When installing the fuel line, (E4MC quadrajet ) I accidentally broke vacuum diagram tubing. This tube is located right above the fuel line inlet (upper left) I've attached a picture for better view. The new carb that I've already installed has an extra port in the location (indicated by straw). I only used the pics from the old carb to indicate location of port tube, because I couldn't get a clear pic of new carb once it was installed. I'm open for all advice! Thanks in advance!
Can I hook the vacuum diaphragm up to this port location?
Is better just to cap off diaphragm and plug tubing hole?
what's the best way to reroute the vacuum hoses for the diaphragm?
Did I replace the right sensor?
Is the other sensor (to the left of the replaced sensor) is coolant level sensor?
When installing the fuel line, (E4MC quadrajet ) I accidentally broke vacuum diagram tubing. This tube is located right above the fuel line inlet (upper left) I've attached a picture for better view. The new carb that I've already installed has an extra port in the location (indicated by straw). I only used the pics from the old carb to indicate location of port tube, because I couldn't get a clear pic of new carb once it was installed. I'm open for all advice! Thanks in advance!
Can I hook the vacuum diaphragm up to this port location?
Is better just to cap off diaphragm and plug tubing hole?
what's the best way to reroute the vacuum hoses for the diaphragm?
Last edited by louisianaboy08; September 21st, 2015 at 12:15 PM. Reason: add pics
#2
There are two separate coolant temperature sensors on the 307. The one with black and yellow wires are for the computer to read. On my 86 Cutlass, that sensor is on the drivers side.
The other sensor on passenger side is for the gage or warning light on the dash, and that would have two green wires. This would be a simple on-off switch for the light or variable for the gage.
So my analysis is that you replaced the wrong one.
As far as i know the two variable sensors are not interchangeable so make sure you buy the correct one, or know that the parts store guy gives you the right one.
I do not even see the one you need on Rockauto. They have the temp gage and temp light senders but not the sender for the computer...
Not sure about your hose issue yet.
The other sensor on passenger side is for the gage or warning light on the dash, and that would have two green wires. This would be a simple on-off switch for the light or variable for the gage.
So my analysis is that you replaced the wrong one.
As far as i know the two variable sensors are not interchangeable so make sure you buy the correct one, or know that the parts store guy gives you the right one.
I do not even see the one you need on Rockauto. They have the temp gage and temp light senders but not the sender for the computer...
Not sure about your hose issue yet.
#3
There are two separate coolant temperature sensors on the 307. The one with black and yellow wires are for the computer to read. On my 86 Cutlass, that sensor is on the drivers side.
The other sensor on passenger side is for the gage or warning light on the dash, and that would have two green wires. This would be a simple on-off switch for the light or variable for the gage.
So my analysis is that you replaced the wrong one.
As far as i know the two variable sensors are not interchangeable so make sure you buy the correct one, or know that the parts store guy gives you the right one.
I do not even see the one you need on Rockauto. They have the temp gage and temp light senders but not the sender for the computer...
Not sure about your hose issue yet.
The other sensor on passenger side is for the gage or warning light on the dash, and that would have two green wires. This would be a simple on-off switch for the light or variable for the gage.
So my analysis is that you replaced the wrong one.
As far as i know the two variable sensors are not interchangeable so make sure you buy the correct one, or know that the parts store guy gives you the right one.
I do not even see the one you need on Rockauto. They have the temp gage and temp light senders but not the sender for the computer...
Not sure about your hose issue yet.
#4
The problem with the parts stores is that they just might order the incorrect one, like for the gage or light.
If you have a local pick and pull bone yard, i would grab a couple from there from any car with an Olds 307. Early 90's RWD Cadillac, Buick and Olds big whale-wagon up to early 90's, and of course mid-late 80's RWD Olds and Buicks.
OR put up a parts wanted post on this site with your desires.
If you needed to pass an emissions test and get the light off now, or to provide better drivability until you get a new sensor, you could wire in a 200 to 350 Ohm (1/4W or higher) resistor between the yellow and black to fool the ECM in thinking it is up to normal operating temp.
If you have a local pick and pull bone yard, i would grab a couple from there from any car with an Olds 307. Early 90's RWD Cadillac, Buick and Olds big whale-wagon up to early 90's, and of course mid-late 80's RWD Olds and Buicks.
OR put up a parts wanted post on this site with your desires.
If you needed to pass an emissions test and get the light off now, or to provide better drivability until you get a new sensor, you could wire in a 200 to 350 Ohm (1/4W or higher) resistor between the yellow and black to fool the ECM in thinking it is up to normal operating temp.
#5
Thanks, again, "Rob Young". I went to the junk yard after our last convo and found an old Buick, and what looked like an old delta 98. These cars were so rusted out with grass grown high around them, I was almost scared to get anything off of them. The wrecking yard sold me 2 sensors for 15 bucks. The 1st sensor worked like a charm! i started the car and the car ran @ idle without the check engine light. Then i took the car for a spin light never came back on. I'm so glad this problem is behind me now. I drove around for 6 months bothered with the, "Check eng." light. Now I just have to get my carb situation fixed. Either I will buy a new carb, or get mines rebuilt. I'm wanting everything stock & up to par, on my "Olds". Thanks again.......
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