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Salvage Rusty Bolts & Parts...yes or no?

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Old October 27th, 2011 | 09:00 AM
  #1  
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Smile Salvage Rusty Bolts & Parts...yes or no?

Should I try salvaging things like rusty bolts, springs for headlights caps or should I try replacing them with new ones?
Old October 27th, 2011 | 09:12 AM
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I would try to save them with some cleaners first, original always fit better and you may save some money. I use Easy Off for rusty parts that I need to get back to bare metal, works great.
Old October 27th, 2011 | 09:16 AM
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My friend used the rust stripper that Eastwood sells and raved about it.
Old October 27th, 2011 | 09:17 AM
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If i had not kept any parts on my car that were rusted. There wouldn't be much car left.

Keep everything, Clean everything, Paint everything.

I shall stand by that until there is no rusted pieces left on my car.

-Tony
Old October 27th, 2011 | 09:40 AM
  #5  
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Soak them in degreaser and remove grease and dirt first.
Next soak 'em overnight in evaporust or a similar product.
This will work for most fasteners.

If rust was so deep that metal is missing, replace them if they carry extreme loads, such as on suspension, driveshaft, motor mounts, etc.

The only bolts I know I would replace regardless of looks (if originals) would be the upper control arm shaft to frame bolts. They are abused by alignment techs and when they break, bad things happen. Since they are spaced out with shims at angles, they get unusual stress put on them.
Old October 27th, 2011 | 09:49 AM
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There are many New Oldsmobile exclusive Nuts and bolt kits that work perfectly. I spent I think $50.00 and got a complete kit that included everything for the complete fenders forward of the car (included Headlight stuff/Radiator etc). Even included clips and shims. All were the correct size and shape and duplicated the original designs. They look great and worked perfect. My old ones were tired and looked bad. Good Luck.
Old October 27th, 2011 | 09:52 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71
Soak them in degreaser and remove grease and dirt first.
Next soak 'em overnight in evaporust or a similar product.
This will work for most fasteners.

If rust was so deep that metal is missing, replace them if they carry extreme loads, such as on suspension, driveshaft, motor mounts, etc.

The only bolts I know I would replace regardless of looks (if originals) would be the upper control arm shaft to frame bolts. They are abused by alignment techs and when they break, bad things happen. Since they are spaced out with shims at angles, they get unusual stress put on them.
Rob,

Which bolts did you order and from where again? I think you said tractor supply a while ago? I'm replacing mine soon too. So if i could order an exact fit that would be perfect.

I'm worried about going to the hardware store and ordering bad bolts.
Old October 27th, 2011 | 10:25 AM
  #8  
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I save serviceable old bolts and hardware! Also if I need a fastener I go to a Bolt Store, as I prefer domestic! They are in the phone book and you will be surprised on what alot of them actually carry at reasonable prices!
Old October 28th, 2011 | 02:59 AM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by GoodOldsGuyDougie
There are many New Oldsmobile exclusive Nuts and bolt kits that work perfectly. I spent I think $50.00 and got a complete kit that included everything for the complete fenders forward of the car (included Headlight stuff/Radiator etc). Even included clips and shims. All were the correct size and shape and duplicated the original designs. They look great and worked perfect. My old ones were tired and looked bad. Good Luck.
Sound good, where did you get them from?.

Roger.
Old October 28th, 2011 | 06:22 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by Tony72Cutlass'S'
Rob,

Which bolts did you order and from where again? I think you said tractor supply a while ago? I'm replacing mine soon too. So if i could order an exact fit that would be perfect.

I'm worried about going to the hardware store and ordering bad bolts.
TS sells by the pound so they are good, cheap, generic replacements. They will not look like automotive bolts, but if you get the sizes and grade right, they will work fine. I used their grade 8's in the lower control arms - they fit and worked just like a bolt should!

Now the upper control arm shaft to frame bolts are special - you need to get these from an Olds or Camaro parts house. They have splines to hold them in the frame to make alignments easier. Easy to find thankfully...
Old October 28th, 2011 | 12:41 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by Tony72Cutlass'S'
Rob,

Which bolts did you order and from where again? I think you said tractor supply a while ago? I'm replacing mine soon too. So if i could order an exact fit that would be perfect.

I'm worried about going to the hardware store and ordering bad bolts.
Tony, I know you asked Rob but I wanted to add on to it. I've been ordering bolts and other parts from ILT (In Line Tube). They have delivered excellent quality and (most important) their shipping rates to Canada have been more than reasonable. Buy from who you want, but do give ILT a look. They have an exclusive Olds catalogue and have also added a 'New Products' catalogue. Worth a look. The other thing you might consider is going to your local nut and bolt supply store. Take along a sample of what you want replaced. If you're replacing ones that will take a lot of load go at least grade 8. Also get lock nuts, not just regular ones. You might find that is an easier hit on your pocket book.

When i was at Partsource, they have a whole wall display of various nuts/bolts and clips that would probably be the same in Quebec. Check that out too - they even have the fasteners and bolts that go on the 442 grill tabs.
Old October 28th, 2011 | 01:05 PM
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Throw them into a clear bottle of Apple Cider Vinagar. Check them in a day or so. They wiill come out like brand new. No need to buy any rust cleaners.
Old October 28th, 2011 | 02:51 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by 35mastr
Throw them into a clear bottle of Apple Cider Vinagar. Check them in a day or so. They wiill come out like brand new. No need to buy any rust cleaners.
I will give it try...thanks
Old October 28th, 2011 | 03:04 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by 35mastr
Throw them into a clear bottle of Apple Cider Vinagar. Check them in a day or so. They wiill come out like brand new. No need to buy any rust cleaners.
X2 Works great! might need to wire wheel them after depending on how bad they were. Suppose to neutralize with water/baking soda mix to stop the acid from continuing to work.

Only problem I've had using vinegar is the strong desire for fish/chips during and after working with it.
Old October 28th, 2011 | 03:54 PM
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Im a big fan of the tumbler.I bought a Tumbler at Harbor Freight for @ 40 .00.Truly amazing.Brings everything back to original.Works like a charm.
Old October 28th, 2011 | 04:42 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by nonhog
X2 Works great! might need to wire wheel them after depending on how bad they were. Suppose to neutralize with water/baking soda mix to stop the acid from continuing to work.

Only problem I've had using vinegar is the strong desire for fish/chips during and after working with it.
LOL. You guys serious about this? Vinegars way cheaper than other stuff. How does the finish last, or do you have to phosphate coat them after?
Old October 28th, 2011 | 05:31 PM
  #17  
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http://www.evapo-rust.com/

Leave it in there about a day. Solution goes from green color to dirty rusty color. Spray the screws clean with brake clean and they are like new. Of course anything heavily pitted wont look so good but if you just have surface rust it will remove the rust without touching the black (or plated finish).

Buy it at Harbour Freight.

I used to blast and tumble until i found this stuff.

No joke this stuff works.


https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...l-results.html
Old October 28th, 2011 | 07:06 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by 35mastr
Throw them into a clear bottle of Apple Cider Vinagar. Check them in a day or so. They wiill come out like brand new. No need to buy any rust cleaners.
Then when you're done, throw half a jug of rum into the cider solution and you have some pretty potent pirate grog!!
Old October 28th, 2011 | 07:48 PM
  #19  
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I work in a steel mill where we have a "pickling" line, so i clean the bolts in a sandblast cabinet, then i take them to work and dip them in a sulfuric acid tank for 5-10 mins, then a phos tank for 1.5 mins, and finish them off with a dip in a phos neutralizer tank.
Old October 29th, 2011 | 08:37 AM
  #20  
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You guys laugh but it works. This is a couple of samples that I did a while back when I was trying it out. I will shake the bottle a little bit to see how the parts look after a day or so.
Attached Images
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File Type: jpg
PowermaticDrillPress024.jpg (66.3 KB, 54 views)
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Old October 29th, 2011 | 11:25 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by oldzzy
I work in a steel mill where we have a "pickling" line, so i clean the bolts in a sandblast cabinet, then i take them to work and dip them in a sulfuric acid tank for 5-10 mins, then a phos tank for 1.5 mins, and finish them off with a dip in a phos neutralizer tank.
“After all that you would think that would levitate”.
Old October 29th, 2011 | 11:34 AM
  #22  
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So add garlic, also???
Wow. I did not know I needed to know how to cook to clean parts!
Came out looking GREAT!!!
Old October 29th, 2011 | 12:54 PM
  #23  
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Here's a sample from the last batch i did.

Before bolt


Sandblasted Clean


Finished Phosphate Coated
Old October 29th, 2011 | 04:19 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by 35mastr
You guys laugh but it works. This is a couple of samples that I did a while back when I was trying it out. I will shake the bottle a little bit to see how the parts look after a day or so.
And the garlic is for??
Old October 29th, 2011 | 04:41 PM
  #25  
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5F4TNqsK8Ck

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYDd6...eature=related

Using Baking soda
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJQGX...eature=related
Old October 31st, 2011 | 09:18 PM
  #26  
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I second the Vinegar. For the stubborn stuff, hit it with a wire brush and soak it again. Overnight is good enough.
AC
Old October 31st, 2011 | 09:25 PM
  #27  
stetzie's Avatar
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Salvage Rusty Bolts & Parts...yes or no?

Hey, vinegar does work. I restore toy trains in my spare time and tried the vinegar to remove rust. It's a little slow, but if your not in a hurry, give it a try.
stetzie
Old October 31st, 2011 | 10:53 PM
  #28  
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I saved a very rusty fuel sender out of a 49 GMC. Still have it I'll find it and snap a pic. (vinegar)
Old November 3rd, 2011 | 09:10 AM
  #29  
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Thumbs up old vs new

Originally Posted by clay69
Should I try salvaging things like rusty bolts, springs for headlights caps or should I try replacing them with new ones?
Bolts have a life! When you torque them they strech(you can't tell with the eye). Old bolts have probably lost their tensile strength. Replace them (now or later?!)
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