Hi Guys,

Anybody try Evapo Rust yet? I picked up a gallon a few weeks ago but haven't tried it until this weekend. I bought box of nuts, bolts, screws, clips, and fasteners off a guy on Ebay that he saved when he stripped a Chevelle. He send me like 20 lbs of stuff. As you can imagine it was a box of very rusty stuff. I dumped it all into a bucket and poured in a gallon of Evapo Rust and went to bed. This morning I was pleasently surprised......the stuff works!!!

Being brainless I didn't think to take a "before" pic of all the fasteners, so an "after" pic now wouldn't be of much help. So this afternoon realizing you guys might want to see some results, I put a piece of rusty steel plate in halfway submerged in the bucket. You can see the pic for the results. Total time in the Evapo Rust was about 3 hours. I also checked it at one hour and it looked about the same....but the pic I have posted here is for three hours.

Evapo Rust and Metal Rescue are the same thing. I was talking to a Metal Rescue rep at Spring Carlisle and when I asked him what the difference was between Metal Rescue and Evapo Rust.....he said there was none. I ended up using the full gallon on all the bolts, etc, so mabye it isn't that cost effective for really large stuff.....electrolysis is probably bette. But for small things like bolts and clips......I think it's a viable solution.

Let me know what you think.

regards,
bob

regards,
bob

 

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ing-media.html

I like it.

 

I have also used it and it works great...expensive...but great

 

I bought a quart of Rust Dissolver from 3X:Chemistry (http://www.dlistl.com/3XChemistry.cfm) at Carlisle. As with the other products, this sales rep also admitted that they are all the same. His selling point was lower price. I've tried it on the windshield cowl panel on my 62 and my experience was the same. The stuff smells faintly acidic (surprise) but it's water soluble. I did nothing but lightly wire brush the cowl panel before applying the Rust Dissolver. In the heat it took continual reapplication (I did cover the part with plastic to slow the evaporation). Light scrubbing with scotchbrite helped a lot. I'm going to try DA sanding the next panel first then using the Rust Dissolver to get all the pits clean before priming.

 

Aren't all these rust removers some sort of phosphoric acid? I have been using this at home and works pretty well.

 

Yep and Purple Power De-Rust is the cheapest of them all. Available at most
auto parts stores.

 

It certainly smells like it. The Rust Dissolver stuff I'm using is more of a gel, so it doesn't run off when you brush it on.

 

Hi Guys,

I haven't heard of Purple Power De-Rust.....but I'll look for it. What's good about these products (if they're all the same as Evapo-Rust) is that when your done with them (they turn black) you can just water the lawn with it. Makes for a nice green lawn. Who knew grass likes rust.

Good conversation....

thanks,
bob

 

I have heard this stuff is reusable. Just filter out the waste and reclaim the liquid.
I am sure there is a time where no more liquid is left though...

 

how is this stuff side by side with metal ready , which is formulated for the use of POR-15 , if its the same stuff and cheaper , im there.

 

I use metal ready and it works well. It adds extra zinc to your parts which is good for painting. If you do not plan to paint them, I would not use MR because of the extra zinc.

 

I was going to mention that when reading Bob's review last night (he commented the "used the whole gallon"). Just strain it (don't even need to do that) and put it back in the gallon jug for later use. You'll be able to tell when it's not working any longer.

Evaporation...when the stuff is in an open container it takes A LONG time to evaporate.

Don't know what the "active ingredient" is...a light acid (that meets typical municipal specs to allow pouring down the drain as the manufacturer notes on disposal) or something else??

Decent stuff it seems...I've had varying results but generally happy with it on small parts to aid in cleanup and stripping.

The "metal preps" are somewhat different (and for a different purpose)...paint type metal preps are typically phosphoric acid based and react with any residual rust to CONVERT it rather than remove it. Of course, that could be a function of their concentration and use method (part is just wiped down with it and then immediately nuetralized VS. SOAKING with EvapoRust).

I would NOT use Evapo Rust as a substitute for a paint manufacturer's own "metal prep" solution. You are just introducing another variable and risk into the paint adhesion equation at that point and you should ask..."Do I really want to use/substitute something in my paint work...especially when it's something that's applied as the basis for THE FIRST PAINT COATING?".

Do what you want but to me it's lunacy to substitute products when you are going to be spraying hundreds of dollars (or even easily into the 4 figures) of product on top of that treatment.

If you read EvapoRust's information they talk about soaking and then washing off...but then suggest re-dipping and air drying for a coating that will allow the part to sit "as is" for awhile before paint, etc. When you do this the stuff seems to build up a coating that doesn't seem to be particularly hard....I wouldn't paint over that type of finish/coating.

 

Patton,

I'm with you 100% on what you said. I did use the whole gallon on all those nuts and bolts, etc. The Evapo Rust starts out a light yellow/gold color and as it removes the rust the iron oxide turns it black. When it got good and black I put it in another bucket and I've got an old carb in there as an experiment under the bench. I can see it's still working.....but it's taking a lot longer. I'm guessing at some point it won't work at all and it's time to dump it.

I found Purple Power De Ruster at the auto parts store. I haven't tried it yet, but from a price standpoint it's not cheaper than Evapo Rust or Metal Rescue. The Purple Power was $6.25 a quart plus tax, ($25 a gallon) and Evapo was $19.99 plus tax for a gallon. Metal Rescue was $25 per gallon at Spring Carlisle with no tax required.

As Patton said......I sure wouldn't paint over any of these products. At least not exterior sheetmetal.

For me at least the bottom line on this stuff is it's a viable solution to remove rust on small parts that would be a pain in the butt to sandblast, and it can get in cracks and crevices a blaster cannot.....and it's quicker and easier to set up than electrolysis for the tiny stuff. I put an ashtray I bought off eBay in some Evapo last night. The tray was in good shape except for the flat area where people put their cigs, where it was rusty. I ran to a buddy's house to help him fix his rear end (his car's rear end, not his) and when I got back the darn ashtray looked brand new. I could even read the maker's stamp in the tray that I never knew was there. and it doesn't remove paint or plating......so I'm sold.....until I find something better.

Great conversation guys. Just a note to would be users of these products.....they are not degreasers. If the parts have grease or caked on gunk these products will not remove that and get to the rust. The rust will still be there when you clean the parts later. So clean first, then dunk.

take care,
bob

 

Bob---Like you, I was mainly referring to using it as a "metal prep" substitute on outer body sheetmetal prior to priming. For other applications, I'd like to have a vat of the stuff. I think it really helps when you have to beadblast a bunch of parts...I'd rather have this stuff do the work than my hands and fingers in a beadblast cabinet. I'd still blast the stuff but it would go a lot quicker after an EvapoRust, etc treatment.

I remember that OxiSolve stuff from Eastwood...more of a metal prep. I had picked up a '69 Torino decklid from a salvage yard back in the '80's and after reading all their info on it I envisioned all kinds of stuff.

I ended up siliconing up all the drain holes, etc in the backside of this decklid and pouring the OxiSolve inside. Let it sit a few days. Poured it out and the whole inside was coated with a heavy white powdery finish (over-phospated). That decklid ended up in the scrap pile I think.

Oh yeah....as you mention this stuff is great on chrome ashtray assemblies with rust on them!!

 

I had some serious rust behind the back window under the vinyl top that I sanded and wire wheeled , and I used metal ready liked directed on the bottle , and put some bondo on for now , and then primed it , and its held up for a year without and problems.... of course I been parking it in an underground garage at night... nice and dry , but its gotten rained on plenty of times sitting at work and no resurfacing of any rust in any of the areas that ive used it on.

 

Hi Guys,

I've been trying Evapo Rust on everything rusty I can find around my place and I still have to say I'm impressed. I put an old rusty quadrajet in the bucket of old black Evapo that I thought was dead......wrong. The rusted throttle plates look brand new, and it does degrease to some extent. I'm going to keep dumping what I think is used up Evapo into that bucket to do bigger and bigger parts.

Today I soaked an underhood light I bought off Ebay. It arrived around lunchtime today and it was pretty ugly. I put it in the Evapo and went to a party my neighbor was having.....and a few hours later when I came home to walk the pooch I checked it. Looks brandy spanking new! The best part is I discovered an another awesome use for this stuff. It can clean corroded electrical terminals without hurting the plastic connector housings or the wire itself. Awesome. I've got a horn relay with rusty connectors that's going to take a bath tomorrow!

I still haven't found anybody that has the Purple Power De Ruster in stock. Most carry it, but are out. But as soon as I find some I'll have a showdown.

see ya,
bob

 

They say a picture is worth 1000 words, so I can just say:

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...nlet_0-all.jpg

 

I also skeptically tried Evapo Rust on the emergency brake assembly, as it has so many hard to get at areas. It did the job. The big secret to this stuff is to have enough to totally submerge the part for hours. I kept trying to brush it on, but it evaporates too quickly to do its job. I have attached before and after pictures; quite remarkable really.

 

What about the rubber stop in the e-brake? Doesn't eat it up?

 

No, it has no affect on rubber or plastic. How does it know? The downside is, it is expensive to buy enough to submerge large items. Hey, but what's money when your restoring an Olds?

 

HI Guys,

Yeah, I've been using Evapo for some time now and it is impressive stuff. A couple of things I've learned....

You do have to totally submerge the part. And if you have a very rusty part it is best to keep the part off the bottom of the container where all the junk settles. Just a half inch off the bottom works.

Don't submerge just part of the part and then plan on flipping it over to do the other half if you care about what it will look like. If you do this there will be a clear line where the liquid stopped on the part.

If you want to de-rust parts that were galvanized you can't leave them in Evapo too long or it will remove the galvanizing. Trial and error works best here. It has no effect on chrome.

It is expensive for large parts. Use a container just a bit larger than the part you are de-rusting. I always save plastic containers from the trash that are weird sizes just for this use.

Evapo won't take off paint. Or grease. So make sure to degrease the part prior to submerging.

You can continue to use it as it gets dark, it just takes longer to work. When it gets real dark I pour out the liquid into another container and get rid of the crud on the bottom of the first container. Then it can be used longer if you don't mind having parts in there for a few days.

This is important.....you must topcoat the part after it's de-rusted or it will rust again pretty quickly.

So noting what I just said this is some pretty impressive stuff. I did finally buy some Purple Power De-Ruster.....now I just have to figure out where I put it. )

take care,
bob

 

Just one more thing. I actually dunked an entire Rochester 4-BBL in a bucket of Evapo just to see what it would do. The carb had been sitting in my shed outside for years and looked really ugly. The metal parts (throttle plates, linkages, etc) were severly rusted and the anodized body was pitted and covered in white oxidation. I figured why not. So I put it in the bucket overnight. In the morning when I pulled it out it looked brand new.....with one exception. The gold anodizing was gone and the bare cast aluminum under it was fully exposed. Still looked great, but if you want to keep the original gold color.....don't do this.

regards,
bob

 

I like the evaporust stuff, but wow, its expensive !! if you warm it slightly it will help with the process and I have even tried ultrasonic cleaning as well but along with the heat the product (and my $$) evaporated very quickly. I used DI water (deionized water) for the mix (unless you buy ready to use) DI water is good since there is nothing there but ultra pure water, not metals, salts, chlorine, but I have access to it most do not. Now for what I have found by wanting a less expensive way to de-rust larger parts. For you farm guys, you probably already know, but molasses and water works AWESOME, it work on the same principal as evapo, "Chelation". Its like 10 bucks a gallon at feed stores, (to mix with feed to make it sweet) and makes 10 gallons of de-rusting fun ! Now for some downsides I have found. Its food !! so if you live in an area that has lots of bugs (down south) place the container far from the house, and well its food, so it spoils. After a while if you're cheap ( ok, frugal ) if you want to make it last it will get ripe, and lastly, after rinsing, you must treat the metal asap as it will flash rust, but it is a great non destructive way to de-rust.

Search youtube for it, there is a guy down-under who dips whole cars, you will be amazed.

 

Want a cheap and easy degreaser for smaller parts? Grab a crock pot (yes...a crock pot) and a jug of antifreeze. Put the parts in the crock pot, put in enough antifreeze to cover the parts, place the lid on the pot, set on medium, and leave overnight. The grease will just fall off.

Just don't let your lady catch you snagging her appliances! It certainly can't be used in the kitchen any more.

C.J.

 

I hadn't heard of that one.
Unfortunately my fiance has also read this post so I'll have to get my own crock pot.

Roger.

 

Found this on jolopy site ...lots of posts about it

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...olasses&page=2

 

Just ask a newlywed for an extra crock pot. Many of them end up with half a dozen of them as wedding gifts and look forward to passing them on...

 

Anybody ever tried this stuff ? Interesting stuff as you can brush it on.
www.therustdoctor.com/how-to/index.html

 

That's amazing! Where was it 30 years ago when I really needed it? The thing that stood out the most for me in that video is that the brushes or mitts can be cleaned up with water and reused, not like with POR.

Now I need to get another project car to try it out on.

 

I would think that this product would allow a person to salvage a lot of their rusty pcs
that would otherwise have to be replaced or other parts that are not available.

 

I've used white distilled vinegar to derust tools and small items. I've derusted a small prybar that I found in the yard all rusted, also a pair of tin snips. I took the snips apart so as to get all the areas clean. Worked great. I don't know how cost effective it is against the other ways mentioned but it worked for me and it was "free" as I already had some on hand. I left it in the vinegar for a week, actually forgot about it. When I went back to check on it later it was all black and it just fell off the part leaving a nice clean item. Seems that vinegar is good for everything!