zeeke

I may never learn. Ordered tie rods from RA, low a behold... they're the wrong ones. Painted them so they wouldn't rust and when I went to install them no bueno. As usual, biggest problem, no number to call so I've no choice but try the email route. Anyone know what part numbers these should be? Anyone know what these fit? Possibly a B body? Advanced didn't have AC Delco and still needed to order the Moog's, so I went with these. looks like I'll be getting the Moog's now.

70cutty

According to the part number on the box, it's supposed to be for a 72 Chevelle. I know Chevy used different tie rods on 71-72 Chevelle vs the previous years. I thought the only difference was the adjustor sleeve thread size.

70cutty

For best quality, go to Napa and buy their Napa Chassis tie rods, unless something changed they are still made by Dana/Spicer here in USA. AC Delco and Moog are made overseas.

joe_padavano

The box would beg to differ.

joe_padavano

How about we start from the beginning.

Are the disc brakes (and steering arms) original to the car or not? If not, where did they come from? The 1970-earlier arms (and matching outer tie rod ends) have different part numbers from the 71-72 arms and tie rod ends.

The correct 71-72 steering arms are P/N 408604/408605. These steering arms use outer tie rod ends 7810072. The 64-70 steering arms use outer tie rod end 5678805.

I'll add that 88909920 crosses to 7810072. This is also Moog ES406R.

If you need the early one, it's Moog ES333, which also crosses to P/N 88909871.

oddball

......... what's the problem? You need the boot on it, first. The size of the bottom of the stud doesn't matter - the taper and engagement of the taper is what matters. The stud below the taper can be 1" or 2" or 0.5" or whatever. Doesn't matter. There's supposed to be a gap between the steering arm and the tie rod. The stud does NOT go all the way into the steering arm until the tie rod hits the arm..... it'd lock up solid if it did.
From the location of the cotter pin hole it looks like the stud is engaging properly. If you're paranoid then compare the distance from where the bottom of the steering arm ends on the stud to the middle of the stud engagement in the arm. That's the critical dimension.

The '70 or '71 change in the A body is the thread size when up significantly on the tie rods. Earlier parts are much smaller thread.

oddball

Joe, isn't the taper in the steering arms the same between across that 70-72 change?

Also, if you're super paranoid, use dykem to check engagement of the taper.

70cutty

Old stock most likely. I would save that box, flatten it and frame it, you know in memory of good ol days. LOL.

joe_padavano

The taper angle is the same, but the diameter may not be. If it were just the diameter of the thread, the steering arms wouldn't need to change. I agree, however, that the photo without the boot doesn't look like a problem.

70cutty

Joe, aren't all front control arms same for A body, with exception of oval vs round bushings??

joe_padavano

We're talking about the steering arms.

70cutty

Oh gotcha, my bad. Are the steering arms different between the years? just trying to learn.

joe_padavano

See post #5.

zeeke

This is bottomed out at this point. Should there be that much sticking out at the bottom? If I make this up to 30-40lbs. it's not going to go in much more. I will check the numbers and post what I find. This car is a "Fankin-Cutlass" before I acquired it. The things I know for sure are the radiator support is 72', the deck lid is 70' (original jack sticker has the 70' bumper in it), the motor I got it with was a 70' non AC motor and the 2 barrel carb is a 67'. Bought it off a guy that flips cars in Redhook, Brooklyn. The car came from Michigan. I will check to see if they are 70 steering arms, but I'm having the same issue with the center link to tie rods as well. Any shot you have those 70' steering arm part numbers readily available?


Centerer link

joe_padavano

The inboard tie rod ends are a different P/N for 70-down vs. 71/72, but the center link for 70 is the same as 71/72. If you can torque the nut enough to get the cotter pin in, you're fine. Again, put the boot on it and it will likely look normal. The 67-70 steering arms are 3894487/3894488. Be aware that these are part numbers and may or may not match the forging numbers.

My442

Joe P. in the snizzle!

GREAT posts.

Greg Rogers

Zeeke, you can (or at least could) call Rockauto and talk to someone It's hard to find but I did it a few years ago.. good luck,

zeeke

Ok, So I did as Joe suggested and torqued them down. Everything worked out. Apologies to Rock Auto. Thank you to all. Hopefully I'll have everything back together soon as all the parts are in. 70Cutty if you want I can send you the boxes. Believe me, I was ecstatic to see the "MADE IN U.S.A" mark on them. The second picture is something you see less and less of.

Torqued to 35lbs.

We won't be seeing this any more.

Greg Rogers

Oh yeah, I remember those blue boots, that's what came with the front end parts I also got for my Vista. I couldn't put them on and reused my old black boots, I know no one is going to crawl under to look at them but I still couldn't put them on. I wonder why they made them blue anyway?? Glad to hear it all worked out, Zeeke.

Fun71

So you know when you've added enough grease during routine lubing. It's hard to see the grease when it squirts out onto the black boots.

oddball

There was probably a blowout deal on blue dye, so the blue boots cost 1/2 of 1 cent less.