Gang,
I just went through my parts collection & found some of my more rare diecast trim parts are missing studs here & there.

It’s a killer to see a great trim piece with a nice exterior finish and then realize it won’t adhere to the car as designed due to a busted mounting stud.

For example I have a couple of 66 big car hood front edge diecast pieces. Each of them has at least 1-4 studs busted off on the ends. At least 2 body shops fixed that by riveting the mostly-unseen underside of the chrome to the hood. That was a good fix, but I’m wondering if there’s a better way - especially for diecast door and fender trim…

Do any of you have a method, process or hack to repair, replace or otherwise fix busted off diecast trim studs?

I’m guessing this is a question a lot of us have across all years and models, hence placement here in general.

Thanks for anything you can share,

Chris

 

Something I have thought about but haven’t tried as I have the same issue on a couple rare trim pieces. I was thinking if I could somehow drill into the pot metal nub where the stud broke off then maybe I could epoxy a metal rod or threaded piece into it..haven’t tried it yet tho

 

This might be something to check out. Someone posted about this on here, but I have never tried it myself.

 

I think some sort of epoxy or glue might do the trick. If you use heat to try to braze, solder or weld the studs back onto the trim it might damage the trim.

 

If there's enough metal to shallow drill and tap, one could thread in a screw, (with the head removed AKA threaded rod) and secure it for good with JD Weld, even if just a thread or two catches, the JB will hold it.
Other tricks can be employed if there isn't enough metal. Get creative. The JB can be worked with a Dremmel once solidified.

Here's an example of an Olds tri-bar spinner I fixed with good 'ole JB.
I drilled a dimple. Made sure the JB would get up into the threaded hole just a little. Cleaned the area with brake cleaner. Then sauced up the broken area and stud w/JB.

Wiggled/worked and pressed down on the broken studs so they went back into the exact same position on the break(well marked with a sharpie). Then as the JB began to set up I built up around the stud base for further strength. Note I did apply a second layer to the studs as the JB takes forever to harden and it settled a bit. Granted this hubcap shouldn't be used on a car but it's a great wall hanger. Body trim isn't spinning...lol

 

Also, use heat to speed-cure the JB. Like setting it in the sun or using a heat gun. Not too much heat....120-140°F

All hardware goes back in with a small dab of nickel nuclear-grade anti-seize. This prevents the new fastener from seizing and rebreaking the reworked stud down the road,

 

Well Heck, all we have to do down here in Texas is just leave it out sun or shade...

 

Here in Phoenix in the sun might be a bit too hot.

 

You can have that heat, just give me some snow to shovel in the winter!

 

Did you ever try to use the wheel cover on your car while in motion? I suppose it would be fine to use at the local car show if you installed it once you arrived.

 

If there is enough meat around the base of the stud, I have carefully drilled thru into the emblem (the exact center of where the stud should be) and tapped the hole for a machine screw the same diameter of the stud. Cut the head off the screw, use some loctite to keep it in place and tread it in.

Problem solved.

 

Ya thats some kind of heat. Could fry an egg or cook a steak on the sidewalk! My solid gray painted deck will get 150°F. Fry the skin off your feet.
You don't want the JB to get too hot just enough to enhance the normally slow setup time.

I dont have the car that goes with the hubcap. I just collect. Making a man cave with automotive art. I have about 60 fine examples. The caps from the 60s & early 70s are truly art.
I had a 400+ hubcap collection in the 70s. Parents moved while I was away at school and left them in the crawl space. Dad did grab ~24 of the best most significant caps. 57 Dodge lancers, SD V4 Buick, P02 Vette etc.

Now I restore collect NOS or near NOS. I like the spinners, spinner spokes and the heavy cast center caps from 63 to 74ish, turbine, sunburst, Corvette, Riviera P02, Olds N95 cast Buick magneasium, caps etc. Ma MOPAR had some great caps in the late 60s. So this tri-bar won't go on a car I own.

I am the resident expert on the different types and subtle differences/similarities between SD V4, P01 & P02 and the 14" turbine (P0?) everyone thinks is Corvette(self taught).

Matt thats a great idea. Have to get creative to save this old non repalceable stuff. NOS is all but dried up.

Always looking for NOS caps. Its a diease!!!

 

OHHH YEAHHH!

 

For a static display, I’m all for JB weld. It’s great stuff.

For something that’s going to spin at 70 mph, I’m guessing I’ll need something mechanical.