this may be a stupid question, but do you have to remove the pistons before taking out the crank? or can they all just slip out at once.

also, what size or type of socket for those nuts.

 

You do know that the piston come out through the top of the block.What type of eng are you playing with.

 

I usually take the pistons out of the top one by one. I never tried to take em out the bottom and dont know if that is possible....never tried or even thought about it. Surely they cannot come out of the bottom connected to the crankshaft. The Socket for the nuts is a 12 point 9/16

 

lol. in my defense. this is my first time. thanks. ill just pop off all those nuts and pull them.
its on a 455 by the way

 

Don,t forget to mark all rod and main caps,they must go back on the same position as they are.

 

can i engrave them with my dremel and an engraving tool?
how do you label them? is 1 closest to the water pump?
also, why do the rods have to be put in the same?
whats the firing order? or should i say, which pistons are which?

 

A punch is the quickest way, mark the rod and the cap on the same side so they go together the same way. yes 1 is closest to the water pump on the drivers side followed by 3, 5, and 7, passenger side is 2,4,6,8 again 2 being closest to the water pump. It's a balanced assemby.

 

yeah, i know thats probably the best. but i can spend 1.50 on the engraver or have to order a set for 25 bucks and wait for it to get here.

 

Also don't forget you're going to need a ring compressor when you put it all back together or you'll never get the pistons in the holes.

 

It is important to ridge ream the tops of the bores before you remove the pistons. Don't just pound them out with a claw hammer.
Put rubber hose around the bolt shafts so you don't scratch the crankshaft and use a wood or a rubber mallet and a soft piece of wood. If there is any kind of ridge in the bores you can damage the soft pistons when removing them. Don't hit the connecting rod bolts, hit the rod ends.

 

An investment in an engine rebuild book sounds like a good idea.

 

You might be able to rent a ridge reamer at your local auto parts store.

 

A number stamp is quick and easy. I would not try and mess with an engraver for marking rods and caps. I have never needed a ridge reamer on an Olds engine.

 

If you have no experience rebuilding an engine I would strongly advise you not to tear it down. It will cost you more in a long run if you don't do it right.

Pat

 

im not rebuilding it. rocket racing will be.
i dont care about damaging the pistons. forged will be going in.