Lubricating Crank assembly before installing Oil Pan

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Old Feb 28, 2011 | 07:29 AM
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Lubricating Crank assembly before installing Oil Pan

Okay, thought occured to me since the motor has been sitting on a stand for a while without any oil or oil pan. There is residual oil on the connecting rods and crankshaft (everything is assembled--never taken apart) as the rest has dripped off. Do you guys lubricate this area before installing an oil pan/oil?? Should I use a thick oil treatment oil (like STP) to coat this assembly? My concern is after I get the motor in and upon initial start up this area might be to "dry" before the oil from the pan starts circulating.

Figured I'd err on the side of caution and get the consensus of those who have done this before.

d1
Old Feb 28, 2011 | 07:36 AM
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I would per lube the motor with a drill.
Old Feb 28, 2011 | 07:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 442Harv
I would per lube the motor with a drill.

I was going to do that (insert drill in from the distributor opening to operate pump) to prime pump, but wasn't sure if this would be enough movement to oil lower end.
(if this is what you are talking about)
d1
Old Feb 28, 2011 | 08:20 AM
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Yes that is what I'm talking about. Take the valve covers off and prime till you get oil to all the rockers. Also need to rotate the motor to get oil to both sides. Also remember shaft turns counterclock wise.
Old Feb 28, 2011 | 08:38 AM
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It the motor has been run before and is just sitting, there is probably a surprising amount of oil in those bearings. You could use the drill method, but you'd probably be fine just cranking it for 30 seconds or so with the spark plugs out, until the gauge shows you've got oil pressure.

- Eric
Old Feb 28, 2011 | 12:14 PM
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Thanks guys. I will give it a go.
Old Feb 28, 2011 | 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by MDchanic
It the motor has been run before and is just sitting, there is probably a surprising amount of oil in those bearings. You could use the drill method, but you'd probably be fine just cranking it for 30 seconds or so with the spark plugs out, until the gauge shows you've got oil pressure.

- Eric
Prime it first, wouldn't crank it unnecessarily with a new cam.
Old Feb 28, 2011 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by cutlassefi
Prime it first, wouldn't crank it unnecessarily with a new cam.
Good call--I did fail to mention that in the initial thread. Hate to mess up that custom camshaft you sent.

d1
Old Feb 28, 2011 | 01:17 PM
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Oops... Missed the bit about the new cam. New parts is different.

- Eric
Old Feb 28, 2011 | 02:00 PM
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dont forget to install the oil pressure switch before priming.

or else you will lubricate your floor. (as i did)
Old Mar 1, 2011 | 07:26 AM
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Don't bother lubricating the outside of the rods, etc. Just cylinder walls, bearings, etc. I have never used a drill; I use duct tape to positively retain a deep well 1/4 drive 5/16 socket (deep well so if it did come off it would be easier to retrieve) and about an 8" extension, and turn the ratchet until I hear oil spuirting and a lot of resistance to turning. I assume you put cam lube on the cam lobes and lifter feet, and oil on the lifter bores.
Old Mar 1, 2011 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Run to Rund
Don't bother lubricating the outside of the rods, etc. Just cylinder walls, bearings, etc. I have never used a drill; I use duct tape to positively retain a deep well 1/4 drive 5/16 socket (deep well so if it did come off it would be easier to retrieve) and about an 8" extension, and turn the ratchet until I hear oil spuirting and a lot of resistance to turning. I assume you put cam lube on the cam lobes and lifter feet, and oil on the lifter bores.
Joe -
I cut the handle of of a 5/16 nut driver and run it with my drill or impact wrench. Cant lose it with that long shank!!
Old Mar 1, 2011 | 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Run to Rund
Don't bother lubricating the outside of the rods, etc. Just cylinder walls, bearings, etc. I have never used a drill; I use duct tape to positively retain a deep well 1/4 drive 5/16 socket (deep well so if it did come off it would be easier to retrieve) and about an 8" extension, and turn the ratchet until I hear oil spuirting and a lot of resistance to turning. I assume you put cam lube on the cam lobes and lifter feet, and oil on the lifter bores.
I have not got to this point yet, but yes the cam and lifters will be well lubricated.


Originally Posted by Chesrown 67 OAI
Joe -
I cut the handle of of a 5/16 nut driver and run it with my drill or impact wrench. Cant lose it with that long shank!!
Thanks for the tip.
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