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I have the master soaking in vinger/dish soap/hot water with some baking soda sprinkled on top then I put a bag over it. Tomorrow I'll attack it with a wire wheel then prime and paint👍
I have a can of cast blast and I ordered paint for the booster. Does anyone have a photo for reference of what it should look like? Should I polish the mc cap or is supposed to be kinda dull?
Last edited by Carsick; March 9th, 2023 at 04:15 PM.
I'll definitely use foil. I think I have in the past. I happened to have tape and only a little foil. If I used it the wife would definitely notice and have something new to complain about 😔 😆
I'll definitely use foil. I think I have in the past. I happened to have tape and only a little foil. If I used it the wife would definitely notice and have something new to complain about 😔 😆
Next time I don't splurge on tape I'll spend my "allowance" on foil....after I pay all the bills (I'm a big boy now). Should this mc cap get painted to match the booster or just cleaned up?
Last edited by Carsick; March 9th, 2023 at 12:27 PM.
I don’t doubt you. First red OEM I’ve seen. Thought the red ones were replacement. Thanks for that.
They are usually covered in black gunk, grease, and soot from 40 or so years under the hood and can appear black until cleaning. Once you wipe them off, you'll see the red. If the hood was left open to a lot of sun exposure, they can also fade to light pink over time.
That blower motor resistor is old school and I love it. Today I bet they use FETs on a printed circuit board, probably not even discreet components but one or two pins of a more complex microprocessor chip.
I'm starting to like the idea of painting the engine the correct bronze....does any one have links or brands with pictures? There's a lot of different shades!
Many years ago Curt Anderson told me the reason the bronze deviates so much is because the paint came from a 55 gallon drum. So when the drum was first tapped the shade would be a lot lighter and as the level went down the color would get darker and darker. So to have a "correct bronze" is tough. I have no proof of this but he always seemed to be a gentleman in the know so I believed him. Maybe a retired Olds assembly line worker could shed some light on it?
I have some bronze from Supercars that goes on real light (almost a champagne gold) but darkens considerably as engine heat bakes it. After some running time it looks pretty good to me!
The other thing to keep in mind is that the shade you get from a metallic paint is heavily dependent on the application technique. If you use the normal method of applying multiple thin coats, the result will usually be a lighter than desired color because the metallics are close to the surface. When Olds painted these engines at the factory, they didn't care about runs or finish, only about getting coverage with the minimum amount of time and labor. The result was a single wet coat that buried the metallics in the paint and thus produced a darker shade (along with runs).
The other thing to keep in mind is that the shade you get from a metallic paint is heavily dependent on the application technique. If you use the normal method of applying multiple thin coats, the result will usually be a lighter than desired color because the metallics are close to the surface. When Olds painted these engines at the factory, they didn't care about runs or finish, only about getting coverage with the minimum amount of time and labor. The result was a single wet coat that buried the metallics in the paint and thus produced a darker shade (along with runs).
And...I suspect they were nearly flash dried in a baking/heating enclosure as they rolled through the assembly?
Thanks Joe and chief. It's supposed to be crappy weather here until monday. I have two cans of bronze engine paint from the parts plc and some high heat enamel (grey) primer and some high heat clear. I hope the paint is still good I bought it a few years ago and it's been sitting since. Same with the cast blast and the grey manifold paint. I'll probably be polishing parts until the sun comes back out. I got this master pretty much striped down. I found some CAD paint on eBay. It looks alright but was wondering what others have used. I don't want to get it re plated. Also we're the bake lines black ?
Thanks
Last edited by Carsick; March 10th, 2023 at 09:40 AM.
Insert off-topic text here:>>>I viewed a video somewhere (probably YouTube) indicating Fisher Body went through ~23,000,000 (million) gallons of paint per year. I assume this doesn't involve engine paint.
I mean you can use aluminum foil to mask-off areas, but painter's plastic is very easy to work with and is less costly; although, Al foil has its merits in select areas. You can buy a 9'x12' plastic drop cloth for $3.50 or rolls of painter's plastic.
Insert off-topic text here:>>>I viewed a video somewhere (probably YouTube) indicating Fisher Body went through ~23,000,000 (million) gallons of paint per year. I assume this doesn't involve engine paint.
engines were painted at olds engine plant, air dried
I mean you can use aluminum foil to mask-off areas, but painter's plastic is very easy to work with and is less costly; although, Al foil has its merits in select areas. You can buy a 9'x12' plastic drop cloth for $3.50 or rolls of painter's plastic.
Thanks Chief I usually have a roll of plastic laying around or a roll of masking paper. I think I have some paper for when I do the fire wall or brake booster. And a bit of foil (don't tell the wife). The other day I used random old towels to mask off a tire. It worked.
I think I have a couple of fitted sheets we don't need 🤫
So I lightly sanded and really cleaned things up
I only came across some very light surface rust. After I prepped it I sprayed this to help get ready for paint!
My question is...
Can I top coat it with por15 (chassis black? The can says epoxy paints are fine but idk what por 15 is...can you help?
The parts place bronze (after some vht enamel primer) and some por15 (chassis black) on the fire wall and frame...the engine paint (rattle can) was 8+ years old and worked perfectly!
now for the oil cap. Is supposed to be color matched to the engine?
Thanks!
Parts Place Restoration shop bronze....after high teml vht primer.
And the valve covers were swapped (fleming442)
Last edited by Carsick; April 20th, 2023 at 08:42 PM.
The parts place bronze (after some vht enamel primer) and some por15 (chassis black) on the fire wall and frame...the engine paint (rattle can) was 8+ years old and worked perfectly!
now for the oil cap. Is supposed to be color matched to the engine?
Thanks!
Parts Place Restoration shop bronze....after high teml vht primer.
And the valve covers were swapped (fleming442)
March 8th, 2023, 06:44 PM
