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Old February 10th, 2011 | 02:57 PM
  #1  
navvet's Avatar
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From: Big Lake,MN..Spent most of my life in Boston
Rebuilding starter

This weekend it will be above freezing for the first time in 20 days and I can work on my 64 88
I am pulling the starter for the second time in two years. The starter was original and had no markings to disprove otherwise. Since the rebuild I have had numerous problems in regards to starting. When I would turn the key to start engine it would not fire up right away so I would turn key to the off position to save the starter. The starter would not shut down even when I took key out. My mechanic who has always treated me fine said it was the ignition. So I replaced the ignition (not easy and tough to find a 6 prong replacement) I even replaced the battery.The problem remained.

The car would eventually start after a half dozen trys running back and forth to disconnect the battery to stop the starter. I put a "quick disconnect" on the battery so my wife could stand there and disconnect the battery when I would yell out to her. Like I said, eventually the engine would start.
If I ran the car to operating temperture and then shut it off an hour later the car would start fine without needing to run to the engine compartment and disconnect battery.
My questions are...Is it the starter and solenoid? Should I have it rebuilt again.
NOTE: The shop that did the rebuild did say they rebuilt the starter with more torgue then the original..does that sound correct?
Thanks
Old February 10th, 2011 | 04:45 PM
  #2  
442Harv's Avatar
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From: Tracy Ca
I would change the solenoid, and check the wires make sure there is no bare spots, or touching something it should not.
Old February 11th, 2011 | 02:40 AM
  #3  
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From: Too close to Toronto!!
My '69 GMC does the same thing, but it usually starts shortly...I think it is the solenoid also...this happened after the rebuild also but I never bothered to return it for repair...
Old February 11th, 2011 | 03:52 AM
  #4  
MDchanic's Avatar
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From: The Hudson Valley
Originally Posted by navvet
When I would turn the key to start engine it would not fire up right away so I would turn key to the off position to save the starter. The starter would not shut down even when I took key out.
This is a classic solenoid problem.
The solenoid is both an electromagnet to push the starter gear into engagement and a high-current relay. Its internal electrical terminals get "melty" as it is used, and may stick (weld themselves) together for a minute before releasing, and need to be cleaned up or replaced. If this is a relatively little-used rebuild, you shouldn't have this problem, but it sounds like you do anyway, so you need to check it out.
You can get a new one down at the corner store for about $15, but I'd take the old one apart first to see what's going on...
(working from memory here)
  • Remove single long bolt from + tab of starter into solenoid (usually ¼" socket / nutdriver)
  • Remove 2 large screws holding solenoid to starter
  • Rotate solenoid slightly counterclockwise to clear tab from groove in starter
  • Pull solenoid straight back off of plunger (large spring will fall out - you can't miss it)
  • Remove nut from solenoid terminal that "Start" wire (purple) was connected to (not coil wire, that's the other one, leave it alone)
  • Remove 2 small long bolts holding bakelite cover on solenoid and pull off.
Now look at the large disk and the two terminals it contacts - the terminals can be dressed with a file, and the disc can be removed and installed the other way to double its life.
If the terminals look like they've got a lot more use on them than you put on them, then suspect the rebuild quality, as they should have been changed by the rebuilder.


Originally Posted by navvet
My mechanic who has always treated me fine said it was the ignition.
He sounds like an idiot.

Originally Posted by navvet
NOTE: The shop that did the rebuild did say they rebuilt the starter with more torgue then the original..does that sound correct?
That means more windings to draw more current and give it more oomph.
If the solenoid is crappy, its contacts might not have been able to handle the current, BUT, as far as I know, there is no "special high current" solenoid, so this should not have been a problem.

- Eric
Old February 11th, 2011 | 06:22 AM
  #5  
navvet's Avatar
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From: Big Lake,MN..Spent most of my life in Boston
Oustanding advice. I need to cure this issue before I do anything else to the engine..including carb and fuel pump rebuild.
Thanks for the help...looking toward a warm weekend and a few hours on the 'ole gal.
Old February 11th, 2011 | 07:54 AM
  #6  
Trofeonut's Avatar
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Posts: 9
My money is on the solenoid. As previously mentioned, the starter is activated by the solenoid. I have experienced this many times back in high school, college when I had to fix it with no $. I have seen the key switch do it also but you replaced it. I would have done the starter solenoid first; after checking battery voltage ,etc. The solenoid parts are well described in prev. comments but the solenoid is CHHHEEEEP!
Old February 11th, 2011 | 02:51 PM
  #7  
My442's Avatar
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Posts: 2,257
Starter rebuild kits are about $20.

I got mine from Victory Lap.

Not all solenoids are created equal.

Get the top of the line Standard Motor parts solenoid - much beefier than the regualr ones.
Old February 11th, 2011 | 03:02 PM
  #8  
navvet's Avatar
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From: Big Lake,MN..Spent most of my life in Boston
Nice to hear,positive I can cure this issue quickly. Thanks all for the help.
Old February 11th, 2011 | 03:58 PM
  #9  
citcapp's Avatar
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Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,127
From: Rathdrum, Idano
Originally Posted by MDchanic
This is a classic solenoid problem.
The solenoid is both an electromagnet to push the starter gear into engagement and a high-current relay. Its internal electrical terminals get "melty" as it is used, and may stick (weld themselves) together for a minute before releasing, and need to be cleaned up or replaced. If this is a relatively little-used rebuild, you shouldn't have this problem, but it sounds like you do anyway, so you need to check it out.
You can get a new one down at the corner store for about $15, but I'd take the old one apart first to see what's going on...
(working from memory here)
  • Remove single long bolt from + tab of starter into solenoid (usually ¼" socket / nutdriver)
  • Remove 2 large screws holding solenoid to starter
  • Rotate solenoid slightly counterclockwise to clear tab from groove in starter
  • Pull solenoid straight back off of plunger (large spring will fall out - you can't miss it)
  • Remove nut from solenoid terminal that "Start" wire (purple) was connected to (not coil wire, that's the other one, leave it alone)
  • Remove 2 small long bolts holding bakelite cover on solenoid and pull off.
Now look at the large disk and the two terminals it contacts - the terminals can be dressed with a file, and the disc can be removed and installed the other way to double its life.
If the terminals look like they've got a lot more use on them than you put on them, then suspect the rebuild quality, as they should have been changed by the rebuilder.



He sounds like an idiot.


That means more windings to draw more current and give it more oomph.
If the solenoid is crappy, its contacts might not have been able to handle the current, BUT, as far as I know, there is no "special high current" solenoid, so this should not have been a problem.

- Eric
X2 on what Eric says. I have been doing this since 1960 seldom have I ever replaced a starter. This usually fixes the problem
Old February 11th, 2011 | 04:06 PM
  #10  
MDchanic's Avatar
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Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 21,183
From: The Hudson Valley
Originally Posted by My442
Get the top of the line Standard Motor parts solenoid - much beefier than the regualr ones.
Absolutely true. Amazing to compare the innards sometimes.
I should have mentioned this, but the cheapo ones are often "good enough" for many years.

- Eric
Old February 12th, 2011 | 04:07 AM
  #11  
My442's Avatar
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Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,257
The difference between the standard solenoid and the HD one is huge in terms of the insides.

The price difference is about $10.
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