Rebuilding starter
#1
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 714
From: Big Lake,MN..Spent most of my life in Boston
Rebuilding starter
This weekend it will be above freezing for the first time in 20 days and I can work on my 64 88
I am pulling the starter for the second time in two years. The starter was original and had no markings to disprove otherwise. Since the rebuild I have had numerous problems in regards to starting. When I would turn the key to start engine it would not fire up right away so I would turn key to the off position to save the starter. The starter would not shut down even when I took key out. My mechanic who has always treated me fine said it was the ignition. So I replaced the ignition (not easy and tough to find a 6 prong replacement) I even replaced the battery.The problem remained.
The car would eventually start after a half dozen trys running back and forth to disconnect the battery to stop the starter. I put a "quick disconnect" on the battery so my wife could stand there and disconnect the battery when I would yell out to her. Like I said, eventually the engine would start.
If I ran the car to operating temperture and then shut it off an hour later the car would start fine without needing to run to the engine compartment and disconnect battery.
My questions are...Is it the starter and solenoid? Should I have it rebuilt again.
NOTE: The shop that did the rebuild did say they rebuilt the starter with more torgue then the original..does that sound correct?
Thanks
I am pulling the starter for the second time in two years. The starter was original and had no markings to disprove otherwise. Since the rebuild I have had numerous problems in regards to starting. When I would turn the key to start engine it would not fire up right away so I would turn key to the off position to save the starter. The starter would not shut down even when I took key out. My mechanic who has always treated me fine said it was the ignition. So I replaced the ignition (not easy and tough to find a 6 prong replacement) I even replaced the battery.The problem remained.
The car would eventually start after a half dozen trys running back and forth to disconnect the battery to stop the starter. I put a "quick disconnect" on the battery so my wife could stand there and disconnect the battery when I would yell out to her. Like I said, eventually the engine would start.
If I ran the car to operating temperture and then shut it off an hour later the car would start fine without needing to run to the engine compartment and disconnect battery.
My questions are...Is it the starter and solenoid? Should I have it rebuilt again.
NOTE: The shop that did the rebuild did say they rebuilt the starter with more torgue then the original..does that sound correct?
Thanks
#4
The solenoid is both an electromagnet to push the starter gear into engagement and a high-current relay. Its internal electrical terminals get "melty" as it is used, and may stick (weld themselves) together for a minute before releasing, and need to be cleaned up or replaced. If this is a relatively little-used rebuild, you shouldn't have this problem, but it sounds like you do anyway, so you need to check it out.
You can get a new one down at the corner store for about $15, but I'd take the old one apart first to see what's going on...
(working from memory here)
- Remove single long bolt from + tab of starter into solenoid (usually ¼" socket / nutdriver)
- Remove 2 large screws holding solenoid to starter
- Rotate solenoid slightly counterclockwise to clear tab from groove in starter
- Pull solenoid straight back off of plunger (large spring will fall out - you can't miss it)
- Remove nut from solenoid terminal that "Start" wire (purple) was connected to (not coil wire, that's the other one, leave it alone)
- Remove 2 small long bolts holding bakelite cover on solenoid and pull off.
If the terminals look like they've got a lot more use on them than you put on them, then suspect the rebuild quality, as they should have been changed by the rebuilder.
He sounds like an idiot.
If the solenoid is crappy, its contacts might not have been able to handle the current, BUT, as far as I know, there is no "special high current" solenoid, so this should not have been a problem.
- Eric
#5
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 714
From: Big Lake,MN..Spent most of my life in Boston
Oustanding advice. I need to cure this issue before I do anything else to the engine..including carb and fuel pump rebuild.
Thanks for the help...looking toward a warm weekend and a few hours on the 'ole gal.
Thanks for the help...looking toward a warm weekend and a few hours on the 'ole gal.
#6
My money is on the solenoid. As previously mentioned, the starter is activated by the solenoid. I have experienced this many times back in high school, college when I had to fix it with no $. I have seen the key switch do it also but you replaced it. I would have done the starter solenoid first; after checking battery voltage ,etc. The solenoid parts are well described in prev. comments but the solenoid is CHHHEEEEP!
#9
This is a classic solenoid problem.
The solenoid is both an electromagnet to push the starter gear into engagement and a high-current relay. Its internal electrical terminals get "melty" as it is used, and may stick (weld themselves) together for a minute before releasing, and need to be cleaned up or replaced. If this is a relatively little-used rebuild, you shouldn't have this problem, but it sounds like you do anyway, so you need to check it out.
You can get a new one down at the corner store for about $15, but I'd take the old one apart first to see what's going on...
(working from memory here)
If the terminals look like they've got a lot more use on them than you put on them, then suspect the rebuild quality, as they should have been changed by the rebuilder.
He sounds like an idiot.
That means more windings to draw more current and give it more oomph.
If the solenoid is crappy, its contacts might not have been able to handle the current, BUT, as far as I know, there is no "special high current" solenoid, so this should not have been a problem.
- Eric
The solenoid is both an electromagnet to push the starter gear into engagement and a high-current relay. Its internal electrical terminals get "melty" as it is used, and may stick (weld themselves) together for a minute before releasing, and need to be cleaned up or replaced. If this is a relatively little-used rebuild, you shouldn't have this problem, but it sounds like you do anyway, so you need to check it out.
You can get a new one down at the corner store for about $15, but I'd take the old one apart first to see what's going on...
(working from memory here)
- Remove single long bolt from + tab of starter into solenoid (usually ¼" socket / nutdriver)
- Remove 2 large screws holding solenoid to starter
- Rotate solenoid slightly counterclockwise to clear tab from groove in starter
- Pull solenoid straight back off of plunger (large spring will fall out - you can't miss it)
- Remove nut from solenoid terminal that "Start" wire (purple) was connected to (not coil wire, that's the other one, leave it alone)
- Remove 2 small long bolts holding bakelite cover on solenoid and pull off.
If the terminals look like they've got a lot more use on them than you put on them, then suspect the rebuild quality, as they should have been changed by the rebuilder.
He sounds like an idiot.
That means more windings to draw more current and give it more oomph.
If the solenoid is crappy, its contacts might not have been able to handle the current, BUT, as far as I know, there is no "special high current" solenoid, so this should not have been a problem.
- Eric
#10
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post