Rear Differential Problems
Rear Differential Problems
Hello all,
I was out with my 69 Cutlass yesterday and there was the occurrence of a small burn out. After said burnout, my rearend started making a clunking noise with every revolution or so of the wheel. Took the cover off today and made a few discoveries. One is that someone down the line took a drill to the carrier and pin. This loosened the pin and it slipped out slightly and dung up my pinion. Sorry the pictures are bad. Also could you identify my rear end?
Thanks
http://imgur.com/a/4kkaa
I was out with my 69 Cutlass yesterday and there was the occurrence of a small burn out. After said burnout, my rearend started making a clunking noise with every revolution or so of the wheel. Took the cover off today and made a few discoveries. One is that someone down the line took a drill to the carrier and pin. This loosened the pin and it slipped out slightly and dung up my pinion. Sorry the pictures are bad. Also could you identify my rear end?
Thanks
http://imgur.com/a/4kkaa
You need to make sure it is a 8.2 axle first. If it is,the parts are plentiful for them. Chevy also made a 8.2 axle but nothing will interchange between the two. If you can get the code off the axle housing,that would be a start in identifying it. The code should be on the passenger side axle tube about 6" from the center section/pumpkin. It should be on the back or bottom of the tube. A picture of the front of the center section will help.
You need to make sure it is a 8.2 axle first. If it is,the parts are plentiful for them. Chevy also made a 8.2 axle but nothing will interchange between the two. If you can get the code off the axle housing,that would be a start in identifying it. The code should be on the passenger side axle tube about 6" from the center section/pumpkin. It should be on the back or bottom of the tube. A picture of the front of the center section will help.
In the pictures I posted the last picture is of the code.
Huh, so you want us to look at your rear end, eh?
And tell you how to fix your junk.
OK, then.
Kidding aside, it is not uncommon at all for diff pins to come out. I noticed in researching Saturn issues the other day that even after 100 years of making cars, they can't get shyt right consistently. I have seen a few where the pin was still in place, but the tiny bolt that holds it in place is broken off and therefore hard or impossible to remove so that the pin can come out so that the C-clips can come out so that your Stewart Pidasso C-type rear end can get its axle seal changed. $700 job including the new [open] carrier and bearings.
Snap-on makes a tool for helping extract said broken pin securing bolt.
That's a weird place to try drilling the differential though. That pin should be harder than a drill bit...
You might find that swapping the entire rear end assembly is a cost effective and expedient solution to your predicament.
And tell you how to fix your junk.
OK, then.
Kidding aside, it is not uncommon at all for diff pins to come out. I noticed in researching Saturn issues the other day that even after 100 years of making cars, they can't get shyt right consistently. I have seen a few where the pin was still in place, but the tiny bolt that holds it in place is broken off and therefore hard or impossible to remove so that the pin can come out so that the C-clips can come out so that your Stewart Pidasso C-type rear end can get its axle seal changed. $700 job including the new [open] carrier and bearings.
Snap-on makes a tool for helping extract said broken pin securing bolt.
That's a weird place to try drilling the differential though. That pin should be harder than a drill bit...
You might find that swapping the entire rear end assembly is a cost effective and expedient solution to your predicament.
Last edited by Octania; May 23, 2014 at 08:30 PM.
Huh, so you want us to look at your rear end, eh?
And tell you how to fix your junk.
OK, then.
Kidding aside, it is not uncommon at all for diff pins to come out. I noticed in researching Saturn issues the other day that even after 100 years of making cars, they can't get shyt right consistently. I have seen a few where the pin was still in place, but the tiny bolt that holds it in place is broken off and therefore hard or impossible to remove so that the pin can come out so that the C-clips can come out so that your Stewart Pidasso C-type rear end can get its axle seal changed. $700 job including the new [open] carrier and bearings.
Snap-on makes a tool for helping extract said broken pin securing bolt.
That's a weird place to try drilling the differential though. That pin should be harder than a drill bit...
You might find that swapping the entire rear end assembly is a cost effective and expedient solution to your predicament.
Saturn SC1 blown transmission close up view of the carnage! - YouTube
And tell you how to fix your junk.
OK, then.
Kidding aside, it is not uncommon at all for diff pins to come out. I noticed in researching Saturn issues the other day that even after 100 years of making cars, they can't get shyt right consistently. I have seen a few where the pin was still in place, but the tiny bolt that holds it in place is broken off and therefore hard or impossible to remove so that the pin can come out so that the C-clips can come out so that your Stewart Pidasso C-type rear end can get its axle seal changed. $700 job including the new [open] carrier and bearings.
Snap-on makes a tool for helping extract said broken pin securing bolt.
That's a weird place to try drilling the differential though. That pin should be harder than a drill bit...
You might find that swapping the entire rear end assembly is a cost effective and expedient solution to your predicament.
Saturn SC1 blown transmission close up view of the carnage! - YouTube
Thanks, It was a bit of a shock opening the cover and seeing those drill holes. Unfortunately Im a poor college kid, this will be quite the expense.
Sorry but that's not the code. The code is stamped on the axle tube itself in the area I described. That picture shows the casting # for the pumpkin. If you have to start from scratch buying a posi & gear set,you should really think about upgrading to a 8.5 corporate axle if yours is indeed a 8.2. The 8.2 is not original to your car anyway and if originality isn't a problem,the 8.5 is a far better axle than the 8.2. The gears sets are cheaper for the 8.5 and the posi units are about the same. Find the code and that will help confirm what you have. It will probably take some brushing to find it but it should be there.
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