Is this for real? 1968 Olds 442
Is this for real? 1968 Olds 442
Hello All,
There's a car for sale locally that I'm thinking about picking up. The seller says it's a 1968 Olds 442 and the title seems to prove that. He says it's a project but runs and has a four speed. I've only received a few pictures but what am I missing here? He's asking $5,000...seems like a very low price, doesn't it? I doubt that it's an original 4-speed, and the engine probably isn't original, so maybe it's not worth it?
This is my dream car so I'm thinking about picking it up. What do you guys think about this thing? I'm not very familiar with the 442 values and pitfalls, etc....
Thanks




There's a car for sale locally that I'm thinking about picking up. The seller says it's a 1968 Olds 442 and the title seems to prove that. He says it's a project but runs and has a four speed. I've only received a few pictures but what am I missing here? He's asking $5,000...seems like a very low price, doesn't it? I doubt that it's an original 4-speed, and the engine probably isn't original, so maybe it's not worth it?
This is my dream car so I'm thinking about picking it up. What do you guys think about this thing? I'm not very familiar with the 442 values and pitfalls, etc....

Thanks




The 344 prefix in the VIN signifies the car as a real 442. Check to see if engine ID number matches the VIN and the same for the transmission. With a blue intake I am assuming the engine is not original.
Last edited by Nilsson; Feb 6, 2014 at 03:51 PM.
It looks like a 455 to me, but I'm not sure. I've only owned small blocks. I'm hoping the engine is original and if it's an original 4-speed, that would be awesome. Can I tell from the cowl tag if it's an original 4 speed?
The intake looks correct because of the divorced choke. If it has the original intake,the engine could very well be correct. The 70 up intakes use the tube type choke setup. I'm surprised nobody caught that. Look for the letter 'G' on top of the timing chain housing next to the oil sending unit. Also look for the letter 'C' on the heads. Look for the curved oil fill tube. Those would be correct for a 68 442 400 engine unless it has scoops under the bumper.
Last edited by 66-3X2 442; Feb 6, 2014 at 04:37 PM.
No rust
Not a W30
Has heavy duty cooling as an AC car should
VIN says 442 for sure
Show him the Cutlass body tag and drive the price down [just kidding, that'd be unethical]
The body tag will be 336.... not 344... if it's a Lansing built car. And, it is.
I don't think there is a way to prove MT factory fitment, not from the body tag anyhow.
You'd have to look for the 100 details of assembly- pedals, backup light switch, rear suspension connector bars, etc. Print the Assembly manual, hilite all the MT features, and go over every page.
Or, just buy it as a real 442 with a good start on exactly what you want and be happy.
Offer somewhat less and see if you can save a bit. Waving cash at people and literally thrusting it in their hand can be effective.
Not a W30
Has heavy duty cooling as an AC car should
VIN says 442 for sure
Show him the Cutlass body tag and drive the price down [just kidding, that'd be unethical]
The body tag will be 336.... not 344... if it's a Lansing built car. And, it is.
I don't think there is a way to prove MT factory fitment, not from the body tag anyhow.
You'd have to look for the 100 details of assembly- pedals, backup light switch, rear suspension connector bars, etc. Print the Assembly manual, hilite all the MT features, and go over every page.
Or, just buy it as a real 442 with a good start on exactly what you want and be happy.
Offer somewhat less and see if you can save a bit. Waving cash at people and literally thrusting it in their hand can be effective.
Great info, thanks. I'm talking with him about going to see it. Just a little scary since it seems a little too good to be true. He said it needs a total restoration, so I'm guessing the body is patched up poorly. Not sure about the trunk or floors either. He says he just got laid off....maybe it's the truth?
That looks to be a J code intake.
Depending how much you want to investigate far as original 4 speed look underneath at hump area see if it was cut at all for 4 speed.
If it looks untouched chances are original.
Someone may have mentioned all this already also check for "G" by oil filler tube to verify 400, if F then 455
good luck hope it works out
Depending how much you want to investigate far as original 4 speed look underneath at hump area see if it was cut at all for 4 speed.
If it looks untouched chances are original.
Someone may have mentioned all this already also check for "G" by oil filler tube to verify 400, if F then 455
good luck hope it works out
If you can get under the car and look at the transmission from the driver side (I was able to do it on my brother's '68 with a 4-spd), you can tell if the tranny was original to the car or not. The VIN derivative is stamped, in a vertical fashion, into the left side of the transmission house. If it's there, then that transmission is original to the car.
Randy C.
Randy C.
If you can get under the car and look at the transmission from the driver side (I was able to do it on my brother's '68 with a 4-spd), you can tell if the tranny was original to the car or not. The VIN derivative is stamped, in a vertical fashion, into the left side of the transmission house. If it's there, then that transmission is original to the car.
Randy C.
Randy C.
"Condition is everything" as far as the value of that car. That being the body and chassis. If those are not good, it will cost you a ton of money to do those, and you won't be able to buy it cheap enough. It would cost less to buy a "mostly" finished car. Because of that, many cars are just not financially worth doing.
And that very well may be why it is for sale.
I'm just saying that this is a good starting point. If it doesn't pass the "condition" inspection, the originality doesn't make much difference. Unless you're adding it up for parting out.
Don't know where you and the car is, but I'm in the Cleveland area too if I can help. kurt.shubert@wildaboutcars.com
And that very well may be why it is for sale.
I'm just saying that this is a good starting point. If it doesn't pass the "condition" inspection, the originality doesn't make much difference. Unless you're adding it up for parting out.
Don't know where you and the car is, but I'm in the Cleveland area too if I can help. kurt.shubert@wildaboutcars.com
Now that you know its a true 442...IMO $5K is the going rate for that car in that condition. I wouldn't worry that its too good to be true. By the time its restored you'll have more into it than its worth.
It's a good opportunity to get a true 4-speed 442 - again IMO, too many buyers will spend the same money on a base Cutlass project, same money on improvements, and be much farther underwater at time of sale.
Steve
To echo what Kurt said above:
When I'm trying to figure what it's worth it I always look to comparable sales.
gearheads78 recently bought this car from nickyloves442s on this site:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...oject-car.html
I don't know what gearheads78 actually paid for it but I'd say it was probably in the ballpark of the asking price. It may look like a basketcase but from what I remember it was a very solid car. The difference between a $5k 68 and a $2k 68 is the condition of the body, not whether it is running or not. When I see primer I assume it's covering up rust. Make sure you check it over well. It can probably be parted out for at least $3k but I doubt you'll get $5k for the parts if it's rusty.
When I'm trying to figure what it's worth it I always look to comparable sales.
gearheads78 recently bought this car from nickyloves442s on this site:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...oject-car.html
I don't know what gearheads78 actually paid for it but I'd say it was probably in the ballpark of the asking price. It may look like a basketcase but from what I remember it was a very solid car. The difference between a $5k 68 and a $2k 68 is the condition of the body, not whether it is running or not. When I see primer I assume it's covering up rust. Make sure you check it over well. It can probably be parted out for at least $3k but I doubt you'll get $5k for the parts if it's rusty.
Last edited by allyolds68; Feb 7, 2014 at 06:37 AM.
All good points, thanks. I hadn't thought about the possibility of a rotted frame. That would be bad.
And to raise my suspicion even more....the seller told me, "I know I have it listed for $5k but you can have it for $3500". He sent me a picture of the title, in a woman's name. He says it's in his Mom's name. He gave me his address and I'd like to go look at it, but then again, we've had some craigslist crimes around here lately, including a murder scheme.
And to raise my suspicion even more....the seller told me, "I know I have it listed for $5k but you can have it for $3500". He sent me a picture of the title, in a woman's name. He says it's in his Mom's name. He gave me his address and I'd like to go look at it, but then again, we've had some craigslist crimes around here lately, including a murder scheme.
Go look at the car and bring a friend. I would have already been there looking at it and possibly taking it home. If you dont you will kick yourself for not. If its a true 4spd car those are hard to come by but even if not and the conversion was done correctly saves you the $$.
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