my thought would be to just mount the lock cylinder with silicone or something so if you had to you can pry it off gently and then stick a screw driver in the trunk to open it. No different then most of us have done at one point in our lives that are old enough to have used these cars as daily drivers

 

I had been following your thread with interest as I had purchased a repro trunk lid for my 71 convertible and hadn't had an opportunity to install it until yesterday. The lock cylinder on this one fit properly and the flat rod thankfully aligned perfectly with the slot in the mechanism. It functions as it should.
This lid is manufactured by Goodmark in Taiwan. The convertible lid of course is different from your hardtop model, but odd they would make one correct and the other incorrect unless they have bad molds or it's by a different manufacturer.
General info for anyone considering buying one.

 

That's good to know, glad someone reproducing it correctly -----thanks-----Greg

 

Have you test fit this one on your car yet ?

Thanks Chris

 

Yes, I have it temporarily installed and it fits and operates as it should. It should be tweaked to have better gaps. I didn't bother with the weathership at this point. I do notice it springs open faster, probably because it may be lighter than the original. At some point the tension rods should be moved to a different position to hopefully remedy this. Not looking forward to drilling 20 holes for the Oldsmobile lettering.

 

Thanks Brian that's just what I needed to know.Fit looks pretty good for re pop.

Try cutting the studs off and just adhesive the letters that way you can adjust them. that's how i put my #s on. I put mine on with just a few dabs of permatex, they look perfect and if you need to remove them just heat them a little and twist.

Do you know the make of the lid?

Thanks Chris

 

It is a Goodmark. Part number GMK4560700702.Thanks for the letter suggestion.

 

So How did you fix the lock hole problem...? Thanks!

 

I was able th tweak the key hole opening to allow it to operate correctly. Never heard from none else on how they were able to handle the problem. ??

 

ok... thanks! I just ordered a repo one for my 71 cutlass/442. Its a rally red car also. Im not sure if the lock will be the same problem, but other posts do talk about tweaking the lock hole....

 

Ok, Let me know how it works out and who you got it from-----thanks

 

So i got a Dynacorn 1870. It was the least expensive, $260. I think they are the original supplier of this part.... Bare it weights 51 lbs. My Bare factory was LESS at 48 lbs. so the metal is just as thick. The inner shell was about .035 thick. Yes i did have the same problem with the lock cylinder hitting. But its the inner frame thats stamped about 3/16 out of dimension.I just filed the inner lip out about 1/8". There is 2 layers of sheetmetal there so it did not make a hole. The lock hole is the correct angle, shape and height. The lock plate also had to be filed a bit or just a thicker gasket would due also.The only other issue for me was the mounting hole thread inserts for the hinges. One poped out so i spot welded each one in place....over all it is a good replacement.

 

Nice. Yours is WAY better as far as the key hole goes than mine. Gues they they all are NOT created equal as I was told from Tamraz. Thanks for sharing-----Greg

 

Little hard to see but the very beginning of rod drops down,