Power Steering Conversion Question
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 97
From: DFW, Texas
Power Steering Conversion Question
After almost 2 years of manual steering I’ve decided that it’s time to change over to power steering. I’ve been gathering parts and I think I have almost everything I need but I’d like to run it by all of you to double check. Nothing like starting a project and not having all the parts you need to finish
what I have:
Power steering pump
Hardware with spacers to mount pump
new pullies (mine are mismatched and won’t line up with the pump)
PS pitman arm
PS box
what I know need:
Hoses
Is the pitman arm the only item I need to replace or do I need to replace other components as well?
what I have:
Power steering pump
Hardware with spacers to mount pump
new pullies (mine are mismatched and won’t line up with the pump)
PS pitman arm
PS box
what I know need:
Hoses
Is the pitman arm the only item I need to replace or do I need to replace other components as well?
Old(s) Fart
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,539
From: Northern VA
After almost 2 years of manual steering I’ve decided that it’s time to change over to power steering. I’ve been gathering parts and I think I have almost everything I need but I’d like to run it by all of you to double check. Nothing like starting a project and not having all the parts you need to finish
what I have:
Power steering pump
Hardware with spacers to mount pump
new pullies (mine are mismatched and won’t line up with the pump)
PS pitman arm
PS box
what I know need:
Hoses
Is the pitman arm the only item I need to replace or do I need to replace other components as well?
what I have:
Power steering pump
Hardware with spacers to mount pump
new pullies (mine are mismatched and won’t line up with the pump)
PS pitman arm
PS box
what I know need:
Hoses
Is the pitman arm the only item I need to replace or do I need to replace other components as well?
CH3NO2 LEARN IT BURN IT
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 5,591
From: Land of Taxes
Fusick, Year One sell the correct hoses and belt. Only use "line" wrenches on the hose fittings.
Flush the box and pump if they are used. Bleed the pump with the front wheels off the ground.
Dont be tempted to mess with the worm gear preload nut/set screw on the top of the box. Done improperly you will damage the worm gear.
"The fluid recommended for these pumps and gearboxes is Automatic Transmission Fluid. Dextron III or Ford type F. This is what these units were designed for". Dont use the big box parts store dribble its too thin.
Inspect the frame in this area and above the sway-bar mount area. It is susceptible to cracking. The dip in the horn induces water puddling. Consider drilling a small drain hole on both sides and keep an eye on that area when ever the car gets that wet.
Inspect and clean the rag joint. Replace if needed.
The exact OEM style power steering box to frame bolts/washers are available if needed...see link. Inline tube sells them as well. I dont think there is a difference between power and manual box bolts as the same part number is listed under both. INL10146.
If your removing the box to frame bolts for the first time be cautious. PB Blast them and maybe even a little heat. Work them out gently. I was surprised to see how bad mine were in a California car. The shoulder between the head and the threads had deteriorated on two of them to almost nothing. I just got lucky that the shaft didnt crumble leaving half inside the frame.
Proper torque with good sharp threads is crucial for safety. Immerse the bolts in oil then wipe off 99% of it before installation. This is not a wet torqued bolt but the oil will prevent rust for a while. Run them in without the box in place to insure thread integrity. Recheck the bolt torque after 100-200 miles.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-ps-fluid.html
See post #10
The bolts are available here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-79-GM-...oY0R:rk:1:pf:0
Flush the box and pump if they are used. Bleed the pump with the front wheels off the ground.
Dont be tempted to mess with the worm gear preload nut/set screw on the top of the box. Done improperly you will damage the worm gear.
"The fluid recommended for these pumps and gearboxes is Automatic Transmission Fluid. Dextron III or Ford type F. This is what these units were designed for". Dont use the big box parts store dribble its too thin.
Inspect the frame in this area and above the sway-bar mount area. It is susceptible to cracking. The dip in the horn induces water puddling. Consider drilling a small drain hole on both sides and keep an eye on that area when ever the car gets that wet.
Inspect and clean the rag joint. Replace if needed.
The exact OEM style power steering box to frame bolts/washers are available if needed...see link. Inline tube sells them as well. I dont think there is a difference between power and manual box bolts as the same part number is listed under both. INL10146.
If your removing the box to frame bolts for the first time be cautious. PB Blast them and maybe even a little heat. Work them out gently. I was surprised to see how bad mine were in a California car. The shoulder between the head and the threads had deteriorated on two of them to almost nothing. I just got lucky that the shaft didnt crumble leaving half inside the frame.
Proper torque with good sharp threads is crucial for safety. Immerse the bolts in oil then wipe off 99% of it before installation. This is not a wet torqued bolt but the oil will prevent rust for a while. Run them in without the box in place to insure thread integrity. Recheck the bolt torque after 100-200 miles.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-ps-fluid.html
See post #10
The bolts are available here:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-79-GM-...oY0R:rk:1:pf:0
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,061
From: central Indiana
My 69 had manual steering when I bought it. I didn’t mind it, until I had to parrallel park when I went to college. I used a gearbox, pump, brackets, etc, from a wrecked 68. After tearing my car apart, I found out the rag joint was a different diameter or spline. I ended up going back to the donet vehicle for that part
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 97
From: DFW, Texas
Thanks for all the input. The car was restored about 5 years ago by the previous owner. It’s not 100% correct but it’s a nice restoration nonetheless. I’m expecting to come across some not so correct items when I disassemble the manual steering parts. Because of this I’ve considered installing the 93-98 Jeep Grand Cherokee box to improve the overall feel. If this used box leaks I might go that route
Joe, you are correct this is on my 69 442
How do I properly flush the pump? I assume bleeding will require turning the wheel back and forth
Joe, you are correct this is on my 69 442
How do I properly flush the pump? I assume bleeding will require turning the wheel back and forth
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 6,061
From: central Indiana
3rd generation F body steering gearboxes are a almost direct bolt in once you swap pitman arms. You either need the right power steering pump to use the metric hoses, or use the little adapters that lee power steering offers. You also need the proper rag joint to adapt the different splines. It’s a much faster gearbox, and make the power steering less “powerful” much better road feel
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 97
From: DFW, Texas
I finally got the remaining parts on my list with the exception of the hoses. I can get the pressure line but the return line only comes as hose - no hard line portion for the box. Can I make my own or should I look online for it?
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Cincinnati Rick
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May 22, 2015 01:17 PM
