Railguy

I got the TH350 out and this is what I found.


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The hole is too big for a regular GM bushing.I guess the machine shop did this for some reason,or is this right.The other two cranks I have are different.
railguy

Oldsmaniac

Looks to me to be drilled for the pilot bearing. Dont know if the bushings are the same size as the factory bearing.

steverw

Im thinking my machinest told me the Pontiac bushing was larger, not sure maybe i just dreamed it.

Railguy

I think you're right,but only certain years.I did a quick search and found one.It looks to be real close but is ony 3/8 of an inch thick just like the one that fits in the torque converter hole so I'm wondering if I should use both?

http://www.partsgeek.com/wmkfym9-pon...aring+-+Dorman





railguy

steverw

you might just try the Pontiac bushing first, im not sure about using both. Maybe someone who knows more about this than me will chime in. I think 3/8 is ok, if it works for Pontiacs then it should be ok for olds too. If you use a particular machine shop ask them.

dc2x4drvr

What is the I.D. of the hole?

Railguy

I can't get my gadge in to tell I used sockets to estimate one was a good bit too small another to big.I checked the one that was too big it was 1.399 bushing is 1.382 I'm hoping that it fits or is too big a friend has a good lathe and all the tools and mics to measure everything.
I'm taking the flywheel to get resurfaced today.
railguy

Railguy

I "dry fit "the new trans yesterday to see where to cut the floor.Then I removed it and cut the floor.The clutch fork looks like the one header pipe is in the way. I have a couple of ideas but I'm not doing anything ontill I know for sure where everything goes like the push rod and the exact possition of the throw out bearing.Going to pick up the flywheel on mon.or tue..I'm waiting on a couple of small parts that are coming on tue.so I'm kind of at a stand still for now.Planning on putting some tools away tomorrow and organizing things a little.I'm sure when I start clean I'll see something that I can work on.So far everything is going pretty smoth.....Knock on wood.I for got to say that I put the pedels in and removed the seat "a bench seat" and carpet.
Did anyone ever put a 5 speed in a 442 and then call it a 542?
railguy

gregvm

The first 455 I rebuilt back in 1984 was like that(it was out of a 74 toro).....there IS a bronze bushing that is available, although I can't recall if it's for a chebby, pontiac or what, but it is available. You lucked out, don't have to drill the crank for pilot bearing.

Greg

Railguy

My Omega is a 74 so it may be factory.The crank was balanced for the rods,pistons,pins and rings I thought maybe the machine shop did it.It's 8 or 9 years so no use asking.I have the receipt somewhere being self employed I use all I can"and a little more"but I'm not looking through all of that to find it.I have to check on the 74 Toro.I already got the pontiac one for $4.10 but I"lllook anyway.Thanks for the info.
railguy

Railguy

I did a quick search and found that the bearing I bought fits a 74 Toro.That's so much good luck it's a wonder I survived it!But the same site does not show it fitting an Omega.???
Railguy

gregvm

I didn't mean to imply that there was a bearing available for a 74 Toro, as they were ALL automatics. I think that Olds, toward the mid 70's, decided to bore ALL the cranks for pilot bearings, regardless of they were being installed into manuals or autos. What I meant was that there is a GM factory bearing that will FIT into that crank hole, but I can't remember what application it was for, but they are out there.

You'll have to get an accurate measurement of the O.D. and depth and go to a REPUTABLE parts supply that can match up what you need. I'd go to a local NAPA and may have to "eyeball" the ones they have to meet your needs. Hope this helps
Greg

Railguy

http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...lectedIndex=50


This is exactly what I have. I have a 350 motor from a 73 Omega and one from a 68 Olds neither are like the 74 motor so it must have started in 74.
railguy

Railguy

Well I finally got the parts I needed to put the z bar in so it's in and all the linkage.It fit perfact .I still need the bumper for the clutch pedal(looks to be a rectanglular hole)and the spring on the clutch fork to z bar if any one knows a good place to get those.The pilot bearing I got was a little to big so I ordered a nother one thats a little smaller.I looked in my parts book and it shows a flywheel, bell housing and clutch but no pilot bearing.Tomorrow I going to put the clutch and bell housing in to see exactly where the clutch fork is going to be.Theres no ajustment on the ball that holds the clutch fork is ther a nother one that is?Used to be an Olds dealership I Chambersburg I have to call and see if they still have their books.
railguy

Railguy

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Anybody know where I can get the switch that goes on the clutch pedal so the engine won't turn over unless the clutch is pushed in?Know what it's called?Have any pitchers?
railguy

dmullin

The tko 600 should have a neutral safety switch already on the trans.
If it does, and you use it , make sure to use a 30 amp relay operated by the switch to power the starter solenoid.


I have the tko in my 70 442.

Railguy

Yes it has it but the wires are very small gauge I'm afraid I'd fry some thing.It has a relay in it shouldn't they be low amperage?

Everything is pretty much done now.I had to back it out of the garage to put the seat back in.Seemed to work OK even started out OK.I thought it would I'd have to slip the clutch do to the 2.73's I have in the rear"lower gears next winter project". Lot of snow hear on the east coast and it looks like alot more on the way so I can't test drive it. Sucks!I even got the 8 track in and hooked up the AC DC high voltage didn't worked but Foreigner Four played great.
railguy

dmullin

Use the neutral switch to ground signal a relay coil. The other side of the relay coil would be fed positive from an ignition switched power source.
Then the "heavy current"goes through the relay contacts. The current through the trans neutral switch would be less than 0.2 amp, no concern with that.
If you really wanted to run positive through the switch you could. More wire for nothing.
If you put the relay series to the start solenoid,like we are talking about, you have the added option of using the factory clutch switch as well. So both are necessary to crank.

Railguy

I would like to use the clutch switch but don't know where to get one.

dmullin

It is a 74 omega isn't it?
Might be a gm# 3983965
You can also buy a short adapter harness from auto to manual (I think)

Railguy

I finally got time and some good weather on the same day and took it out for a test drive.It worked great.Me and a friend that I go to Crusin' OC with were talking earlier that day "Dodge guy".So I took it down to show him,He got in the driver seat and don't think he wanted to get out LOL.And the 8- track worked great to.Electric speedo still needs calibrated and there's a rubber plug that needs to be replace with a permanent one.But other than that.
railguy

Run to Rund

The crank hole is probably set for a Dorman 690-023 bushing.

Railguy

Went to Carlisle twice "about 50 miles one way"this weekend. trany and everything else worked great .Had to be going around 80 for the over drive.My tech decided to quit working so I couldn't tell the RPMs.Oh yeah I was in OD most of the way.
railguy

dc2x4drvr

What rearend ratio are you running? With 3:73's I'm taching 2250 at 75mph..

Railguy

272's next winter is going to be rear end change.The trany was enough for one year going from auto to man.flywheel,bellhousing,clutch,clutch pedals,my wife pointed to the shifter yesterday and said thats new isn't it.Couldn't believe I kept it hid that good.
railguy