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The '66 looks pretty much gold, which is how my '69 turned out. Doesn't look too different from an SBO.
Yea I pulled this pic off of cars for sale on this forum. It was a 19,000 mile original, original paint and all 66 442. Like Mike said , engine paint shot out of barrels in the factory. Results varied. When you look on Oldsparts site they claim their formula is 100% correct but it looks nothing like this original car. On my car I sprayed high temperature clear over the engine after painting it. That surely changes the gloss factor, thus the way the cameras pick it up as well.
Look closely at that 66. It is a rarity in OCA judging, getting best of class (BOC) in its first showing at the Nationals in Junior class, BOC Senior class in its second showing at the next Nationals, thus into Senior Preservation after only two shows.
This is Lansing Bronze from March '67. It's been covered by blue since '71 protecting it from UV. After further review Olds Parts Bronze is a little on the reddish side. Isn't fun how the cameras and phones can distort our colors. On my computer screen this looks pretty close to the actual color of my part. Maybe other factories had a different mix.
This is Lansing Bronze from March '67. It's been covered by blue since '71 protecting it from UV. After further review Olds Parts Bronze is a little on the reddish side. Isn't fun how the cameras and phones can distort our colors. On my computer screen this looks pretty close to the actual color of my part. Maybe other factories had a different mix.
All of the 66/67 442 engines were produced in Lansing. All of the cast parts were cast @ CFD aka Central Foundry Department. It was cheaper to ship complete engines than individual parts.
Last edited by 66-3X2 442; September 23rd, 2023 at 02:44 PM.
this is lansing bronze from march '67. It's been covered by blue since '71 protecting it from uv. After further review olds parts bronze is a little on the reddish side. Isn't fun how the cameras and phones can distort our colors. On my computer screen this looks pretty close to the actual color of my part. Maybe other factories had a different mix.
Anything to do with the battery on the '66 and '67 W-30 is a real PIA. Hooking up a battery minder is much easier under the hood.
No Doubt easier under the hood but I drive my car minimum twice monthly so I don’t use a battery tender. Yea climbing in the trunk to change battery isn’t as fun as it used to be. 😆😇
No Doubt easier under the hood but I drive my car minimum twice monthly so I don’t use a battery tender. Yea climbing in the trunk to change battery isn’t as fun as it used to be. 😆😇
I did not really have a problem. I just jumped up into the trunk & hooked it up. You can LOUNGE up in there if you want to, its big enough.
Anything to do with the battery on the '66 and '67 W-30 is a real PIA. Hooking up a battery minder is much easier under the hood.
Can you not put a battery tender on the positive lug of the horn relay and ground it under the hood also. Possibly on the negative cable that bolts to the frame?
Can you not put a battery tender on the positive lug of the horn relay and ground it under the hood also. Possibly on the negative cable that bolts to the frame?
By doing it like that the tender will never shut down because it can not measure the voltage. Strange but true. My zr1 corvette is the same way, battery in trunk..
By doing it like that the tender will never shut down because it can not measure the voltage. Strange but true. My zr1 corvette is the same way, battery in trunk..
Something wrong here. I, my brother and my dad have used trickle chargers connected through the dashboard cigar lighter on many cars for 40+ years. Are you sure your idea isn't some kind of internet hokum?
Something wrong here. I, my brother and my dad have used trickle chargers connected through the dashboard cigar lighter on many cars for 40+ years. Are you sure your idea isn't some kind of internet hokum?
I agree. The positive cable runs directly to the battery no matter where it is. As a matter of fact I have jumped my 66 track pack car off of the horn relay.
Anything to do with the battery on the '66 and '67 W-30 is a real PIA. Hooking up a battery minder is much easier under the hood.
My trickle charge is connected like this. Seems to work fine. I will admit my last charger stopped cutting off when full charge but new charger seems fine.
My trickle charge is connected like this. Seems to work fine. I will admit my last charger stopped cutting off when full charge but new charger seems fine.
All Chargers are not the same LOL. my needs to see voltage at the battery post. Mine will never turn off like this, strange but true.
I agree. The positive cable runs directly to the battery no matter where it is. As a matter of fact I have jumped my 66 track pack car off of the horn relay.
Jumping it is not the same as a battery tender. I know what you are saying & I agree with you 100%. battery voltage will travel AS long as the connections are clean & tight. There is something in some tenders that need to be connected to the battery. Why ????
Jumping it is not the same as a battery tender. I know what you are saying & I agree with you 100%. battery voltage will travel AS long as the connections are clean & tight. There is something in some tenders that need to be connected to the battery. Why ????
Voltage drop across connections will make it look not fully charged to the tender.
The newer "battery tenders" never shut off when full charge is achieved. They put a small charge out to "maintain" a full charge and to reduce sulfitization ?
The newer "battery tenders" never shut off when full charge is achieved. They put a small charge out to "maintain" a full charge and to reduce sulfitization ?
Mine will shut off when it reaches its peak voltage. just a fyi
Just left the Olds Museum in Lansing like 2 hours ago. This engine was on a stand in the museum. Wonder who’s paint did they use??
Are you saying this is the correct color ? I only ask because I really don't know . To my eye it looks ok...excepts they did not sand the drivers valve cover off good enough...SHAME
I am not saying its the color..as I stated in the beginning of this thread, line up 5 cars and you will see several different shades. As Mike said, they sprayed out of 55 gallon barrels, how well its stirred, temp, air pressure, distance all play a part in color..my only point in posting this is to the fact these colors are somewhat different and this one happens to be at the Oldsmobile Museum.
This pic I am about to post is a true 66 w30 car..restored, check out the shade on this car. Because of paint pigments no longer producedI don’t believe anyone has the exact factory shade.
i am not saying its the color..as i stated in the beginning of this thread, line up 5 cars and you will see several different shades. As mike said, they sprayed out of 55 gallon barrels, how well its stirred, temp, air pressure, distance all play a part in color..my only point in posting this is to the fact these colors are somewhat different and this one happens to be at the oldsmobile museum.
This pic i am about to post is a true 66 w30 car..restored, check out the shade on this car. Because of paint pigments no longer producedi don’t believe anyone has the exact factory shade.
The debate over what or whose paint is correct or best will never solved. There's too many variables even back in the day. I give anybody credit for any paint that faintly resembles the bronze. To each his own and if the guy is happy with his paint, so be it.
Mike, your valve covers are still in the box in my basement. I will make a good faith effort to replicate that paint color and post the formula here when I get there. In my opinion, your car is closer than the OP's car, which is slightly closer than Andy's car, and the REO Museum's engine is way off.
I believe there is a Mazda color that is close. Like said above, the original paint cannot be replicated, but the color values might be able to be duplicated.
Also, like said above, bronze is good enough. If you can look at it and say "this is not red, blue, gold, black, or green" (or any other shade of Olds engine paint that is not bronze, then it's good enough.)
I wish they still painted engines neat colors. I haven't seen an iron block engine made in a decade, they were black at my OEM. Now, everything is aluminum and is not painted. All steel cast assemblies are thick, semi-gloss black.
I actually don't mind explaining the bronze to people who ask. I'd rather do that than hear about their uncle's cousin's sister's daddy's from back in the '70s
The debate over what or whose paint is correct or best will never solved. There's too many variables even back in the day. I give anybody credit for any paint that faintly resembles the bronze. To each his own and if the guy is happy with his paint, so be it.
You all are startin to sound like the NCRS crowd...lol.
As long as its not chevy orange, black, red, gold, 455 blue, Pontiac blue, Buick red etc I think you are good.
When I first bought my car wayyyy back in the 80s with its G block freshly rebuilt it looked like post 73.
Here is Fusicks paint. Been there for 20 years. It looks darker in person.
I actually don't mind explaining the bronze to people who ask. I'd rather do that than hear about their uncle's cousin's sister's daddy's from back in the '70s
This is the color I'm using right now. A little more bold than what's on the original parts of the engine.
I mix my own colors using base to give it the correct shine as I see it.
The factory used lacquer paint as it dried faster and Mike is correct as I have talked to gents that worked on the engine assembly line.
55 gallon drums with pneumatic stirrers.
This is the color I'm using right now. A little more bold than what's on the original parts of the engine.
I mix my own colors using base to give it the correct shine as I see it.
The factory used lacquer paint as it dried faster and Mike is correct as I have talked to gents that worked on the engine assembly line.
55 gallon drums with pneumatic stirrers.
Very close to my engine color, mines Bill Hirsch but I put a couple coats of high temp clear on top of it. So it shows more glossy.
September 23rd, 2023, 09:36 AM
