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Old Nov 7, 2012 | 03:35 PM
  #1  
citcapp's Avatar
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From: Rathdrum, Idano
Opinions please

I have looked on the internet and too much information so I am turning to my Old brethren for their learned advice on the following


#1. I have a sears timing light that I bought in the 70's you know the kind, made out of steel and bullet proof. I would like to purchase a advance style timing light

#2. I have my billet dash panel for the 48 Olds designed for 3-3/8" gauges. I really like the New Vintage 1940 gauges electronic speedo, tech and quad gauges in white. Any thoughts on these
http://www.newvintageusa.com/1940.html

#3. LED's for the panel. turn signals, hand brake, high beam, shift light all flush with the panel.

Thanks for your answers in advance

Pat
Old Nov 7, 2012 | 06:04 PM
  #2  
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From: Central IN
Originally Posted by citcapp
I have looked on the internet and too much information so I am turning to my Old brethren for their learned advice on the following


#1. I have a sears timing light that I bought in the 70's you know the kind, made out of steel and bullet proof. I would like to purchase a advance style timing light

#2. I have my billet dash panel for the 48 Olds designed for 3-3/8" gauges. I really like the New Vintage 1940 gauges electronic speedo, tech and quad gauges in white. Any thoughts on these
http://www.newvintageusa.com/1940.html

#3. LED's for the panel. turn signals, hand brake, high beam, shift light all flush with the panel.

Thanks for your answers in advance

Pat
#1 - I probably have the same old Craftsman timing light as you ! Had it for decades, but wanted a dial-back light. I studied online and even went to the Sears store. Seems like now there's only 2 kinds of lights. High-dollar pro-level ones for ~ $150 & up ...and cheap chinese ones for $70 & under. The ones at Sears were the same cheap chinese ones that they had for about half the price at Harbor Freight..so I bought the HF one (Centec brand IIRC). Seems to work OK.

#2 I think the white faces and clean, basic design work work well with a '48.

#3 Bah. No LEDs. ....I'm an incadescent kinda guy whenit comes to old cars, but that's just me...
Old Nov 7, 2012 | 06:24 PM
  #3  
citcapp's Avatar
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Thanks for the input. I felt the same way about the timing light that's why I asked for other opinions. On line comparisons are all over the place.

I have no issues with the incandescent with lens except for the size. The small dash insert just doesn't allow for the size.
Old Nov 7, 2012 | 06:29 PM
  #4  
coppercutlass's Avatar
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From: Elgin, Illinois
Just use timing tape. I have the same timing light . It's older than me but one of the local old timers brought it and said 15 bucks you are gonna need it lol.
Old Nov 7, 2012 | 07:01 PM
  #5  
MDchanic's Avatar
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From: The Hudson Valley
I have the same timing light (I may have two of them). I guess I've had it since I got it used, somewhere around 1980. Still haven't killed it.

I picked up a red plastic Snap-On dial-back light for $10 at a flea market a few years ago. It had a pulled wire inside the handle. Resoldered it, and it's been perfect since.
Something like that would be my first recommendation.

I have no real comment about gauges or lights - it's all personal æsthetics, so do whatever looks good to you.

- Eric
Old Nov 8, 2012 | 08:22 AM
  #6  
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I too have the same timing light, and a 30 year old craftsman set back that I've had for 30 years.
Old Nov 8, 2012 | 08:37 AM
  #7  
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From: Northern VA
#1 X2 on the timing tape

#2 It's personal preference

#3 I'm converting all my cars to LEDs eventually. I'm not a big fan of replacing bulbs under the dash. There's a vendor at Carlisle who sells LED lamps that are MUCH better than the commonly available ones. These typically use a tower with many LEDs around the sides in addition to the ones on the top. For an 1157 replacement, for example, the common LED lamps only shine straight out from the base, so you don't get anything from the reflector in the taillight housing. This makes the lamp look dimmer.



By having the LEDs on the sides as well as on top, you take advantage of the reflector and the result is much brighter taillights. I have these on my 62 and they work great.



This same vendor has 194 bulb replacements for the dash lights. I bought some but haven't put them in yet.
Old Nov 8, 2012 | 04:00 PM
  #8  
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You can get those 1157 LEDs and other similar ones here

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/t...er,1157,21,195:
Old Nov 8, 2012 | 08:16 PM
  #9  
MDchanic's Avatar
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I got a couple of those LED 1157s a couple of years ago, and they were nowhere near as bright as a regular bulb.
I figured I'd wait a few years and see how much they'd improved.
I've got another year or 2 to go.

- Eric
Old Nov 9, 2012 | 03:24 PM
  #10  
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From: Woodland WA
Smile LEDs for indicator lights

re. item 3: single LEDs for indicator lights. I did something I think is similar to what you are proposing when I built my 36 Chevy. I got a gauge panel from springfield streetrods and used white background with black lettering VDO "cockpit royale" gauges and single small LEDs for hi-beam and turn signal indicator lights. The gauge panel was built for them. The VDO gauges were already lit with incadescent push in type bulbs and I used a "pick-n-pull special" dash light dimmer from a wrecked Toyota to be able to adjust brightness on those. A pic of gauge panel attached.

I had my 47 Olds gauge panel rebuilt/updated as I'm keen on the style but went to the flush mounted single LEDs for turn signal indicators.

It sounds like you are making some progress on your 47 build. How about posting some update pics in the vintage Olds forum on your progress. There is a small but very interested group of 46-48 owners who hang out there.
Jerry
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Old Nov 9, 2012 | 06:40 PM
  #11  
citcapp's Avatar
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I'll post some pictures soon. I have been piece mealing my build do to the old issues of time and money.
Old Nov 9, 2012 | 08:05 PM
  #12  
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I hear you and have pretty much the same pace on my convertible build-- it moves at the pace of my finances. I won't go in debt for a hobby so things move pretty slow sometimes. Plus I've had a couple of surgeries less than 12 months apart and recovery has been long term but happening.

I didn't get much done from last Nov. until this one and am hoping to resume more active pace about December. I did finally finish the reverse tilt hood sub project which should give better engine access but don't think I would do it again. A lot of work and re-work to get it right.
Jerry
Old Nov 10, 2012 | 09:02 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by RetroRanger
You can get those 1157 LEDs and other similar ones here

http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/t...er,1157,21,195:
An interesting concept/item. Who has ém, and are they brighter or not?

I do not understand the "Select Color" box on the order page. Would one not want white? What color selection is correct for tail lights? Suppose one could use yellow/gold/amber for front turn signals, right?
Old Nov 10, 2012 | 01:16 PM
  #14  
MDchanic's Avatar
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Originally Posted by D. Yaros
I do not understand the "Select Color" box on the order page. Would one not want white?
The kids with the Japanese cars with the 8" fart pipe exhausts buy all sorts of colors to make their cars look illegal, er, I mean "cool."

- Eric
Old Nov 10, 2012 | 01:35 PM
  #15  
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From: Northern VA
Originally Posted by MDchanic
The kids with the Japanese cars with the 8" fart pipe exhausts buy all sorts of colors to make their cars look illegal, er, I mean "cool."

- Eric
Actually, I have the red for my taillights and the amber for my front turn signals. I suspect the blue color on the website is likely the annoying blue-white.
Old Nov 10, 2012 | 01:44 PM
  #16  
MDchanic's Avatar
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From: The Hudson Valley
Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Actually, I have the red for my taillights and the amber for my front turn signals.
As long as you don't have green for your windshield washers and purple for your door handles, I'm kewl with 'dat.

- Eric
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