nelsontj

What are your thoughts on which oil to put into the car for long-term storage through the winter in the Northeast? 5W-30? 10W-30? 10W-40? or something else? The car will be stored from October to May without being started.

Hairy Olds

The same oil that's in there now will be excellent for over the winter storage.

oldcutlass

X2 on whatever is in it at the moment.

nelsontj

My concern is adhesion to the cylinder walls over time. I don't know a thing about oil science (I hope someone on the forum does), but I am wondering if the higher viscosity oil would have a tendency to adhere to the cylinder walls longer than the lower viscosity oil over that winter period. I realize it is always dicy to store a car and not start it that long, but I don't have any other choice and I am just glad I have that option.

don71

You might be over thinking this. Its not that big of a deal.

Look at what people do to out door equipment and boats. October to May is not long term.

redoldsman

I would be more concerned about the gas than the oil. You have probably already planned for that though.

pogo69

i change from 10-40 (summer) to 10-30 in the fall thru spring and i'm in CT that is basically what the service manual advises 5-30 could do well also i=f your going to start it up a lot

seeing your like me and wont start it, i would just go 10-30

Hairy Olds

I have in the past let my car sit unused for 2 years or longer and everything is good.

joe_padavano

X2. I'm a big fan of laziness.

bw1339

My concern is the oil becoming acidic and eating the bearings away. I've taken apart old engines in which the bottom of every bearing shell looks like it was made out of alka-selzer.

Clean oil is best for storage.

lemoldsnut

Clean oil I agree but use what you normally use.

Another precaution would be to use a fogging oil. These are used on boats typically. It comes in a spray can and you run the engine and kill the engine by spraying it in the carb. Then you are done. It is made to coat the cylinder walls during storage. Can be purchased at several parts stores or boat dealerships.

Hairy Olds

Not sure how to take this. I normally don't get aggravated very easily.
When life detours me I let hobby sit.
PM any reply Joe or use my email: psigmund@wi.rr.com

Koda

Letting the car sit for a few months with whatever oil is in it is fine. Fill it with fresh gas, make sure the antifreeze has good freezing protection down to whatever you think it will hit, and if you'd like, jack it up a bit and put blocks under the frame to de load the suspension and tires some. Take the battery with you and keep it inside. 10W30 is fine. When starting the car, that time the starter is spinning the engine will get all the oil going in the 7 or so seconds it takes to get fuel up to the empty bowl. Air up the tires. Put dryer sheets in the trunk, under the hood, and on the footwells to repel mice. Maybe a poison station near the car. If it is stored inside, a light cover will do. Outside, a heavy waterproof tied down cover will do.

MDchanic

My answer: Go relax and have a beer.

Over the course of one winter, there will be absolutely no measurable difference to the engine whether you change the oil, don't change the oil, use 5W30, use 20W50, use synthetic, or use whale oil.

Just take care of the other important things, as mentioned: rodents, antifreeze, fuel (only because of the increased corrosiveness of modern ethanol mixes), battery, etc.

And relax, already. This isn't a Ferrari, it's a nearly-indestructable block of cast iron, which has more in common with a steam locomotive than a modern Acura.

- Eric

chip-powell

Don't forget a bottle of STA-BIL in the fuel tank.

jensenracing77

lol, I am on year 3 for the Jetfire. Gets about 200 miles a year and the oil is perfectly clean. I do plan to change it this weekend.

twintracks

Four years ago, I purchased a '66 Toronado that had been sitting in a high and dry North Dakota junk yard since 1983. The fuel and brake systems needed to be completely gone through, but after the tune, and a battery, the car started right up. It is after all, an Oldsmobile.
Your car will be fine in the spring.

cwb442

Someone once told me that seafoam works better than stabil for fuel stabilization, not sure if true.

chip-powell

I don't know about seafoam. I do know that every year before I store my cutlass for the winter, I put in a $2 bottle of STA-BIL, fill it up with high test and then let the engine run for about 15 minutes to make sure that it gets through the whole fuel system. So far (knock on wood) I've had no problems with condensation forming in the lines during the cold winters.