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Hi olds family im back needing some help . Ok so 455 is on the frame button up , so i wanted to do one last look over before i drop the body back on . Had a knock i thought was rod but turned out to be flexplate . But while chasing it down i had valve covers off and no oil to top of engine unless i rev the engine up then i can get up there. Still only like 5 psi on oil pressure also . My question is could this issue be because im using diesel oil 15w40 ( bevause of the zinc ) to break it in ? All the galley plugs are in as well the front two and the one behind the the one for distributor oiling .
History is i just did a stock rebuild all new bearings rings . When i got it together it primed good except for the oil pressure , maybe 3 minutes with the drill and all pushrods were oiling . Ive started it a few tines set timing and carb . Once i put trans on and was bout to drop body something told me todo one last start up just to make sure while everthing is easy to get to . Started it sounded like rod knock but undid trans and the knock stopped it was from loose flexplate . But had the vavle covers off and thats when i noticed no oil from pushrods while running . Oil gauge saif 5 psi , maybe gauge is broke tho , but still i had ran engine for 2 to 3 minutes engine was warmed . If i reved it up i could get oil out of driver side pushrods didnt see any from passenger side . But at idle nothing.
Last edited by Kapos79kutlass; Oct 4, 2023 at 11:48 PM.
History is i just did a stock rebuild all new bearings rings . When i got it together it primed good except for the oil pressure , maybe 3 minutes with the drill and all pushrods were oiling . Ive started it a few tines set timing and carb . Once i put trans on and was bout to drop body something told me todo one last start up just to make sure while everthing is easy to get to . Started it sounded like rod knock but undid trans and the knock stopped it was from loose flexplate . But had the vavle covers off and thats when i noticed no oil from pushrods while running . Oil gauge saif 5 psi , maybe gauge is broke tho , but still i had ran engine for 2 to 3 minutes engine was warmed . If i reved it up i could get oil out of driver side pushrods didnt see any from passenger side . But at idle nothing.
If you have no oil getting to the upper end of engine this is not a gauge problem. using a drill to prime you will only get about 5 to maybe 10 lbs, but you still should be getting oil to the upper end. Did you replace the main & rod bearings or just rods.I will assume all the journals looked good ? did you replace the oil pump ? Also when this was opened up did you run a pipe cleaner through all the oil galleries ?
Ok thanks guys for yalls responses . Ok yes i cleaned every spot i could reach , all new bearings cam and rod and rings . Once i got it back together i primed it and in the first 5 piks/vid is of me priming all was great at that stage . By saying oil from pushrods i just shortened it meaning it came up through the pushrods and out onto the rocker arms . Every thing was good at that point except the 5 psi . But i thought once i got it complete back together that would bump up on psi . So i put it together , did 3 stand starts evrything was great . 4th is a video of a short run before i set it on the frame . All was good so on the frame it went . The next 3 piks is of the front two galley plugs and the one behind the distributor , just showing they are in there . And the last video is i put el cheapo gauge back on started for 10 seconds to see and now no psi at all and showing why i say no oil at the top . Now when it was warmed yesterday i could rev it up and oil would shoot out driver side . But i was worried so shut it down . Todays quick start up makes like 6 start ups all equaling about a total of 15 to 20 minutes .
not sure why the videos didnt post
If it starts and runs put valve covers on it and start it. Let it run for awhile. You mentioned your using a cheapie oil pressure gauge. You can use that if you want but as long as there's no bottom end noise or horrible lifter tick your golden.
Yes there is a plug in there ? When i bought a new plug. it came with two . The one thats in there has the small hole and the other in the picture below does not . So yea the plug is in and it works . What i mean by it works is i took out the distributor today and wanted to humor myself with another priming with the drill and guess what , all rocker arms was bleeding with oil within 1 full minute . I even checked the distributor hole and it was leaking as well . Set TDC primed it again everything great dropped distributor in started it up and no ticking at first but also no oil ? Engine is sounding great i just cant get oil to the top when running but priming it oil will get there with in literally 1 minute . Someone please help me figure this out !
how can i uploade videos on here from my galaxy phone ?
What kind of drill are using ,, turbo prop LOL. I never got that kind of pressure from a drill.
Assuming the engine is idling at a typical 600-750 rpm, that mean the oil pump is turning half that speed. And regardless of the internet myths, oil pumps don’t take very much power to turn.
Unless you have the oil pan filled with 90w, and trying to prime the engine in below freezing temperatures, any drill should be able to spin the pump fast enough to develop at least 30psi.
Ok family i think i might have it figured out . But just want some other thoughts on it . I did open up the oil pump when i first broke down the engine . Cant remeber exactly what and how the pressure relief valve looked . I do remember spring and carter pin anf thats it we are talking 6 months back so my question is this : 1 if the valve was stuck in there in an open position would that cause no oil pressure and when engine was running at idle stop the oil from making it to the top untill i rev it up to higher rpms ? ( when the first notice of no oil [after engine was warm] when running i reved the engine and a littlr bled from driver side ) also if stuck open or wrong installation of the relief valve could a slower movment (drill) let the oil prime to the top but just when under say 1000 rpms it would just dump straight back into the pan ? No matter tomorrow evening the engine will ome off frame pan dropped and pump out for inspection just wanting second thoughts .
Ok fam so my thoughts were right pulled it apart pulled cotter pin on oil pressure relief vavle and tge valve came out first then the spring . Here are some pics . First 3 pics is how it came out . The rest is asking how it suppose to go back . Does the spring go inside the valve or does the spring go against the flat end of the valve ? And again the way the valve was in the pump could be the reason for no psi right . Just pulled the cotter pin in this pic Valve was at the outer end and spring was inside This is how it was inside Solid End of the valve Open end of valve Should the spring push against the solid end Or should the spring go inside the valve So it go in with the solid end first
That was it now ol elcheapo gauge pushes 5 psi again but now when i rev the engine it will go up to about 10. But im good till i get a good gauge , i looked of in pcv valve gromet and the breather hole anf i can see oil pumping . Now on to my flexplate issue . Is there an special thing to 455 flexplates ?
Assuming the engine is idling at a typical 600-750 rpm, that mean the oil pump is turning half that speed. And regardless of the internet myths, oil pumps don’t take very much power to turn.
Unless you have the oil pan filled with 90w, and trying to prime the engine in below freezing temperatures, any drill should be able to spin the pump fast enough to develop at least 30psi.
