Oil leak
#1
Oil leak
I have a weep at the block where the oil sender switch pipe inserts to the block. I have the original piece. Have used teflon tape & permatex white hi temp thread seal (separately). Also tried a stainless nipple with loctite RED and there is still weeping. Oil collects in the valley where the #'s are. (The timing cover gasket is dry).
Suggestions please
Suggestions please
#2
Pipe thread seals itself because it's tapered. Issues with leaks are usually attributed to damaged parts or not being tight enough. I've seen the senders go bad and leak at the crimped seam where they were assembled.
#5
Well that narrows it down to possibly bad threads or the connecting part itself. I like plumbers pipe dope with PTFE, it works as both a thread lubricant and sealer. I'd replace the connecting part and used a greased up thread chaser to clean up the hole.
#6
I dunno - I've seen the senders leak, just like Eric said, between the central plastic part and the outer metal part.
The leak is so slow, like a tiny ooze, that you can't even see it, but it pools above the timing case just like you say.
If you haven't changed the sender yet, I would - they're cheap.
- Eric
The leak is so slow, like a tiny ooze, that you can't even see it, but it pools above the timing case just like you say.
If you haven't changed the sender yet, I would - they're cheap.
- Eric
#7
OK...after reassembly the pipe is NOT leaking. after the engine reaches temperature oil is weeping from the intake/block seem at the front of the block and filling the crevasse of the oil sender pipe. Gonna let her cool and try a bead of black rtv and let it sit for 24hrs.
#10
yes oldC, I agree with you 100%. However while the engine was on the dyno there was a small pinhole leak in the rear seam of the intake and thought for sure off the manifold will come. But Mike said he would run a bead, let it sit for the weekend. Monday morning engine fired up no leak. I'm thinkin I bought a bad tube of RTV from Pep Boys...the tube had a hardened blob in the middle so I cut the tube and made do. I did re torque the intake and 3 bolts were light so maybe the combination will be the cure. tomorrow will tell.
off topic... the stuff from harbor freight is pure crap. I bought an air gun, tightened the fitting & attached the hose..boom, gun came apart. A simple plastic handle wire brush broke in 1/2. people flock to that joint, never again.
off topic... the stuff from harbor freight is pure crap. I bought an air gun, tightened the fitting & attached the hose..boom, gun came apart. A simple plastic handle wire brush broke in 1/2. people flock to that joint, never again.
#13
The stuff you mentioned is not it.
I bought a battery powered impact for $100, would not even remove a spark plug. Right back to the store, went and bought a Matco for $250 at the buy-n-sell store, no problems.
What is HFT good for?
Thin leather gloves- cheap and long lasting
nice supple welding gloves with gauntlets
Nitrile gloves are pretty much the same as Grainger'e $25 box, and only $6 a box; for throwaway items like that, why pay more?
ratcheting wrenches [same C.O.O. (Country of Origin) as Craftsman, same forever guarantee, dirt cheap at oh 25-30 a set x US plus Metric of course] WHY don't they just make ONE set of wrenches that has 1 of everything?
Sandpaper, sanding sponges [better than Grainger items], sanding strips for brief homeowner uses
diamond Dremel bits
Driveway alert [in-car, in-shed, etc.] motion detector
cheap tarps
8" locking caster wheels - I use a few of these at work, the must lock to run a 50" 2HP fan and hold still
Cheap sockets for non-rusty items or girl/household work or to lend out.
dirt cheap impact 1/4 hex to socket square drive adapters, get a lot.
Made in USA rubber air hose
I made a LOT of L69 oil fill tubes with the 10" disc sander I bought, and it helped restore 2 or 3 cars, and it's still going.
Pretty happy with the light AL floor jacks I got there, as long as you don't use it in the MUD like one idiot I know. The steel one lasted for years, in fact was still working when I decided to sell it after getting the light AL jack. Get the larger more expensive ones. Buy the extra warranty if using it in the mud.
Tie down hardware and chains
small cheap ratchet pullers [comealong]
DO NOT get the tiny 1" tie down STRAPS here, the steel is so thin that the item is pretty useless.
#14
didn't mean to say "everything" at HFT. I bought the car dolly to move the car around the garage & that was fine. Beware of the engine stand the hardware is sub par and the bolts will bend. I bought a better one on craigslist & used #8 hardware. It is nearly impossible to screw up a pkg of microfibre towels. putting the name Chicago on their in house stuff is misleading. It ain't Chicago Pneumatic. It's just frustrating when your in a rush, grab something off the shelf and it blows up. yea you get your money back but not your time!!
#15
harbor freight tools are like any thing else. If I don't pay as much I don't expect as much. When a cheap tool breaks I am not surprised. When a cheap tool outperforms expectations I am surprised. I must say that I have been surprised more often than not! I currently own a lot of tools that I would not normally have purchased had they not been as affordable
Ie: engine stand
Aluminum floor jack
Engine hoist.
Mig welder
Buffer
I have been pleasantly surprised at the performance of each
Ie: engine stand
Aluminum floor jack
Engine hoist.
Mig welder
Buffer
I have been pleasantly surprised at the performance of each
#16
Incase anyone is interested, I cleaned the block area with a dremel wire wheel, ran a bead of Loctite black RTV and waited 24 hrs. Much to my amazement...NO MORE LEAK. bad part about a black engine: finding the oil leak (especially with Royal Purple breakin oil) the good part about a black engine. just touched up the effected area with black engine enamel & a foam brush and looks great.
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