Thinking of buying one as my newer cars are starting to get older. Started looking and holy moly there are a lot of them on the market. I don't need a high end one as I will not be using it on a daily basis like a mechanic would be. I would like one that displays the error code and the meaning of the error code (I would dislike having to look it up in a little booklet every time). Anybody have any recommendations as to brand and model?

Thanks,

 

Obd2. Codes all scanners high end or small you will need to look up code meaning and diag for the most part as a tech I bought a 50.00 one and pull most codes with this a buddy bought the 250.00 craftsmAn one and it better then mine as it does abs codes as well.

Just get one that reads and clear codes as well as pulls the freeze frame data and it will be good

IMO

The high end scanners 1500+ they turn things on and off to test components plus much more just sayin

 

My sister is no mechanic so she bought her code reading scanner from Auto Zone. It reads the codes and comes with a book telling what the codes are. She bought it when it had a half price discount.

 

The one they used at AdvanceAuto when I took my Acadia up there not only threw the codes, but right on the screen it told Purge Valve and Coil Pack. It was one of the hand-held ones. I guess I should just go back up there and ask them which one it was they used and how much it cost.

 

Just so you know all code readers will tell you the code but you still need need to diag it as there are many reasons a part could fail. For a example there are four different 02sensor codes all pointing to a differ part of the sensor some times it's the sensor others it the cat, exhaust leak, wiring, ECM
Another one is evap leak gas cap, vent,purage, hoses, amp mounted screw in gas tank

 

unless you own a volkswagen you need them so seldom i just have advanced or autozone read em they do t for free and as cars get new stuff abs, canbus etc they update there stuff .....if you own a vw then get your own cuz youll use it all the time

 

this is very true...i have been chasing an egr code in my 95 gmc yukon for about a year now on and off and ruled out the actual egr after i replaced it a few times along with cleaning out the carbon in the manifold and a o2,sensor i thought was the cause, but nope now i suspect it is the cat converter choking and sending that signal as a failed egr

 

Hmmm, that's an interesting point RetroRanger. Maybe I don't need one. Advance is 1/2 mile from my house.

 

Did you clean the egr pipe ? Or check for leaks ?
Also check the wiring near the connecter they get brittle

 

One other option to throw out there. I bought a bluetooth OBD2 adapter (a super cheap one was crap, but got one for about $125 that has been rock solid) and run software communicating with it on my smartphone. Works GREAT. Does the typical stuff you mentioned, including resets. Also does web look-ups on the codes. The software I use (on android phones) is called Torque. There are others. Very configurable and good for watching a lot of stuff in real time from your car as well. Can monitor 0-60 times, 1/4 mile times, g-meter, accelerometer...

 

I did clean it well and the electrical connectors looked very clean although a pinched or corroded wire somewhere along rhe way is possible...thanks for the insight

 

At the connector put you pick under thecwire and give it a slight tug if it breaks there's your problem not sure on the trucks but the Buicks are very common here

 

Yes and they will check it for free and with a smiling face hoping you will buy the defective part right on the spot they are trained that way and the always seem very nice and friendly...not that they know anything other than what the scanner says though

 

I had bad EGR on my old explorer, was both the valve, and the sensor.

Annoys me that the crap set up to monitor the stuff fails more than the stuff, and who really cares if the EGR fails anyway?

 

My 2¢: I have not tried the smartphone app type scanners, but they sound like they have a lot of potential.

I have a couple of cheap ($50-125) scanners, and my suggestion is to take into account all of the systems in your car that you might need scanned (generally engine, transmission, ABS, and airbags), and try to get a scanner that will read all of the systems that you've got (they will all read OBDII engine codes, but which of the other things, and for which vehicles, will vary considerably).

Any modern scanner will tell you the name or title associated with the code(s) such as "Misfire, Cylinder #4," "Misfire, Cylinder #1," and "Misfire, multiple cylinders," but will not tell you the significance of these codes. Also, some vehicle manufacturers will assign special or slightly different meanings to certain codes. Some scanners will have these meanings stored, others will not, but none will store all of them.

Finally, if you can possibly use a given scanner for a minute, do so - some of them have the most annoying and counterintuitive sets of menus you can imagine.

- Eric

 

Well said

A friend, just bought the blue tooth off of snap on for his phone. from my understanding he got the apps for two make specific that we deal with the most. So we will see if it's any good

 

That kinda sounds like, "I want to buy a torque wrench but don't want to look up torque specs"
The sensor code doesn't necessarily mean the sensor is bad. You can find flow charts online to diagnose a code you read off a $35 OBDII reader.

 

Well here's my 2 cents worth...
I am a mechanic/ service adviser/ shop owner. I have used many different types and brands of scan tools. You should purchase a scanner that is at your level of ability to interpret the data being presented. I own a small Matco Can400 scanner that cost like $160. This thing is pretty basic. It gives and clears engine codes. It will show you if monitors have run. It does not have ABS, Air bag or any other advanced CAN systems. It does not have bi-directional capability, meaning I can't turn things on or off, or relearn idle, or perform any other advanced scanner feature. It does have live data stream, but does not have graphing. This is an ideal beginner scanner that has free updates. I purchased it 8 years ago so I didn't have to bring home my Snapon scanner when a friend, neighbor, or relative needed me to scan their junk. I also own the Snapon Verus Pro, which is the top of the line aftermarket scan tool. This thing has touch screen, wireless hook up to the DLC, wireless 4 channel scope, built in component analizer, wireless internet hook up, reflash capability, and with all the ad on attachments cost me $14,500. This thing does just about everything but give you a blow job. Every scan tool requires an experienced operator to know how to interpret the data. This tool will not do some things that factory scan tools can like reprogram a window lift module on a Mercedes. If you want that, be prepared to spend like $40,000 for the factory scan tool. My Verus costs $900 twice a year to update. I have heard the new blue tooth set ups for the smart phones are pretty nice. I wouldn't now, I have a dumb phone. You could run mine over or drop it down the toilet and it would keep working.

 

I own a Actron CP9580 code reader. This reader has the ability to erase trouble codes. Check out www.actron.com

 

I have a cheap Actron. I retrieve the code, write it down, reset the car. Then I go on-line, google the vehicle year, model and code. See what the most popular fix was for the code, and start there. I don't like just throwing parts at a problem, but on this new for me stuff it is many times cheaper then taking the car to a dealer or garage.

 

I'm a home use only guy but have a lot of experience.

I have several. Cheap Harbour Freight for just reading the number, Palmer Engineering ScanXL Pro that connects to my laptop and an older Matco that uses cartridges/plug adapters for a bunch of diag on many models.

I use the HF for a quick check to see number or read a code for a friend, I use the others for monitoring and deeper diag.

You can for sure buy lower cost readers that give the number as well as the description of the fault. Sometimes the same number will have a slight variation in description based on what the reader says vs the OEMs shop manual. So unless you are buying a OEMs scanner you might find wording on the screen that's not intuitive.

If I was only going to buy one, I'd go pc based and buy the odb to USB/blue tooth adapter. I've been happy with Scan XL. Check them out at Palmer Engineerings website.

 

This is the one I use. It has the ability to read and reset codes.
I picked it up at Autobone for about $300. I think it may be the one
they use when you go in. Works well for me when I need it.