NOS resortations
#1
NOS resortations
I'm pretty active in lurking and learning here(thanks for all the input and help btw). What's been running through my mind is the topic of NOS parts in restorations. I understand the idea of getting exactly as something came from the factory, but that usually requires: deep pockets and Bhuddist monk level patience. Beyond this and the facts(some parts are not reproduced nor fit the same I get), why go through so much to use 50 year old parts? I've seen prices on here for NOS parts that make my eyes water($2k for alternators, $3500 for mirrors, etc.) knowing most if no all will really matter. Documents are one thing and original, but at what point is it worth it? How far does one need to go? This s is definitely a matter of desire and funds, but why?
#2
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
I think you already answered the question - something that came directly from the factory will fit exactly as the factory built them. That being the case, you also are spot on when it comes to spending the $$ you have sourcing out parts. For many (heck, the vast majority) reproduction parts are the best way to go as most of us don't have those deep pockets for our projects. The NOS factor serves a niche market for those who are doing concourse restorations, and the prices demanded for those parts are based on scarcity.
How far do you go? In your case and mine - only as far as we really want. I was lucky to buy OEM parts for my car when it was restored back in 85. Since then I selectively collected some NOS and OEM parts that I felt would become scarce, with the intention of installing them on my car someday. Now though, it's really a small market for the OEM parts in good to excellent condition. You will be well served to buy what you feel is right for your project and not worry what others think about it. My 2¢
How far do you go? In your case and mine - only as far as we really want. I was lucky to buy OEM parts for my car when it was restored back in 85. Since then I selectively collected some NOS and OEM parts that I felt would become scarce, with the intention of installing them on my car someday. Now though, it's really a small market for the OEM parts in good to excellent condition. You will be well served to buy what you feel is right for your project and not worry what others think about it. My 2¢
#3
IMO you build a vehicle to meet your "OWN" expectations based on how you want to use it, finances and time availability, etc. Concourse vehicles will most likely cost money, but the hobby goes well beyond just concourse show vehicles... In the end it's the enjoyment and satisfaction you get from the end results...
#4
Most of the really high priced NOS stuff goes on the H/O W-30 and W-31 cars where the owner wants the highest level of restoration possible. When these cars are done many times are still not worth the investment but are worth MUCH more than a Cutlass or even a standard 442. There are some NOS parts so rare that they simply should not be installed on anything less than a high end concourse restoration. Like NOS 70 442 grills. These should only be installed on a great survivor original paint car or the highest level of restoration. At $2000+ a set then they would likely never be installed on anything less. In early 2015 I had an NOS 70 442 alternator that I couldn't get $1100 for so I used it myself. Now I have seen used rebuilt ones go for more.
#5
I think the guys above have summed it up pretty well. Don't overlook good used parts. In most cases I would rather have a good used part instead of a repro. Many used parts can be rechromed or repainted to look like new. To me, some of these parts prices are insane. Some of the W30 and Hurst Olds prices are absolutely crazy. But then is a supply demand market. Nobody makes anybody buy it. Not for me.
#6
And don't forget, Some NOS parts suck. Some of them were made years after the cars went out of production. Some of these parts were a "good enough" part and don't fit any better than repop. Like some of the NOS hood tongue for 70 442. They punched the center "4" holes in the wrong location. 70-72 NOS wheel opening moldings that were made later fit like crap and still sell for good money. The repops of those are easier to make fit nice. Most of the NOS 70-73 442 fender emblems are not nearly as nice as some of the repops. Just because it says NOS does not always mean a perfect fit. NOS front fenders for 70-72 is another one. Many of them have the back upper mount welded on in the wrong spot.
#7
Thanks, part of reason I haven't looked for many NOS parts is $$, but also fit/degradation of materials. I've been fortunate to find some really nice used parts(#7040527 carb core for rebuild and original sport mirrors), but whatever I can't is repop(Thornton hood). One benefit of the A-body cars, especially the '68-'72's is the availability of options. Although, my nephew has a '70 Caprice (my dad/BIL/he/uncles restored for him this year) and while lots that can go back and forth, the trim and some panels are almost impossible to find. Feel happy to be able to make calls to get majority of needs handled fairly quickly....never cheap either way LOL!
#9
take for example a true NOS rear bumper and compare to a repop using the factory dies and there can be a noticeable difference in the creases and the detail, Why? the dies they use are wore out.
Also, the quality of Olds workers really went down hill fast since 2004. So the parts made since 2004 were of poor quality.
Also, the quality of Olds workers really went down hill fast since 2004. So the parts made since 2004 were of poor quality.
#10
#12
I'm not sure how GM does their companies. I don't think they are all GM employees, and probably not even Oldsmobile, I would assume they were employee of the Lansing Assembly Plant, or whatever, so they probably didn't all stop at the same day.
#13
Likely that the majority were suppliers not GM direct. When the Janesville plant when dormant(granted there were other Suburban/Tahoe/Yukon plants) everything was done after last job. They moved some equipment out, but work didn't continue, only shutdown wrap up.
#14
To follow up on Eric's comments, look no further than the W25 hoods. My body guy had nearly 60 hours in making what was a pretty decent (1 crack) OE perfect for my blue car. The hood had waves in it like you see at the beach! It's perfect now but I won't to do that again. My new project already has a Thornton hood waiting at the body shop. The body guy was pretty happy when he saw nice it. It will take virtually no work to look as good as the OE one did when finished. Best of all, I saved both time and money on the repop part.
#15
To follow up on Eric's comments, look no further than the W25 hoods. My body guy had nearly 60 hours in making what was a pretty decent (1 crack) OE perfect for my blue car. The hood had waves in it like you see at the beach! It's perfect now but I won't to do that again. My new project already has a Thornton hood waiting at the body shop. The body guy was pretty happy when he saw nice it. It will take virtually no work to look as good as the OE one did when finished. Best of all, I saved both time and money on the repop part.
#16
To follow up on Eric's comments, look no further than the W25 hoods. My body guy had nearly 60 hours in making what was a pretty decent (1 crack) OE perfect for my blue car. The hood had waves in it like you see at the beach! It's perfect now but I won't to do that again. My new project already has a Thornton hood waiting at the body shop. The body guy was pretty happy when he saw nice it. It will take virtually no work to look as good as the OE one did when finished. Best of all, I saved both time and money on the repop part.
#17
I'm pretty active in lurking and learning here(thanks for all the input and help btw). What's been running through my mind is the topic of NOS parts in restorations. I understand the idea of getting exactly as something came from the factory, but that usually requires: deep pockets and Bhuddist monk level patience. Beyond this and the facts(some parts are not reproduced nor fit the same I get), why go through so much to use 50 year old parts? I've seen prices on here for NOS parts that make my eyes water($2k for alternators, $3500 for mirrors, etc.) knowing most if no all will really matter. Documents are one thing and original, but at what point is it worth it? How far does one need to go? This s is definitely a matter of desire and funds, but why?
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