I think you already answered the question - something that came directly from the factory will fit exactly as the factory built them. That being the case, you also are spot on when it comes to spending the $$ you have sourcing out parts. For many (heck, the vast majority) reproduction parts are the best way to go as most of us don't have those deep pockets for our projects. The NOS factor serves a niche market for those who are doing concourse restorations, and the prices demanded for those parts are based on scarcity.

How far do you go? In your case and mine - only as far as we really want. I was lucky to buy OEM parts for my car when it was restored back in 85. Since then I selectively collected some NOS and OEM parts that I felt would become scarce, with the intention of installing them on my car someday. Now though, it's really a small market for the OEM parts in good to excellent condition. You will be well served to buy what you feel is right for your project and not worry what others think about it. My 2¢

 

IMO you build a vehicle to meet your "OWN" expectations based on how you want to use it, finances and time availability, etc. Concourse vehicles will most likely cost money, but the hobby goes well beyond just concourse show vehicles... In the end it's the enjoyment and satisfaction you get from the end results...

 

Most of the really high priced NOS stuff goes on the H/O W-30 and W-31 cars where the owner wants the highest level of restoration possible. When these cars are done many times are still not worth the investment but are worth MUCH more than a Cutlass or even a standard 442. There are some NOS parts so rare that they simply should not be installed on anything less than a high end concourse restoration. Like NOS 70 442 grills. These should only be installed on a great survivor original paint car or the highest level of restoration. At $2000+ a set then they would likely never be installed on anything less. In early 2015 I had an NOS 70 442 alternator that I couldn't get $1100 for so I used it myself. Now I have seen used rebuilt ones go for more.

 

I think the guys above have summed it up pretty well. Don't overlook good used parts. In most cases I would rather have a good used part instead of a repro. Many used parts can be rechromed or repainted to look like new. To me, some of these parts prices are insane. Some of the W30 and Hurst Olds prices are absolutely crazy. But then is a supply demand market. Nobody makes anybody buy it. Not for me.

 

And don't forget, Some NOS parts suck. Some of them were made years after the cars went out of production. Some of these parts were a "good enough" part and don't fit any better than repop. Like some of the NOS hood tongue for 70 442. They punched the center "4" holes in the wrong location. 70-72 NOS wheel opening moldings that were made later fit like crap and still sell for good money. The repops of those are easier to make fit nice. Most of the NOS 70-73 442 fender emblems are not nearly as nice as some of the repops. Just because it says NOS does not always mean a perfect fit. NOS front fenders for 70-72 is another one. Many of them have the back upper mount welded on in the wrong spot.

 

Thanks, part of reason I haven't looked for many NOS parts is $$, but also fit/degradation of materials. I've been fortunate to find some really nice used parts(#7040527 carb core for rebuild and original sport mirrors), but whatever I can't is repop(Thornton hood). One benefit of the A-body cars, especially the '68-'72's is the availability of options. Although, my nephew has a '70 Caprice (my dad/BIL/he/uncles restored for him this year) and while lots that can go back and forth, the trim and some panels are almost impossible to find. Feel happy to be able to make calls to get majority of needs handled fairly quickly....never cheap either way LOL!

 

Some don't remember the original fit and finish of these cars weren't perfect either. Heavily/over restored cars don't reflect that.

 

take for example a true NOS rear bumper and compare to a repop using the factory dies and there can be a noticeable difference in the creases and the detail, Why? the dies they use are wore out.

Also, the quality of Olds workers really went down hill fast since 2004. So the parts made since 2004 were of poor quality.

 

I thought Olds went out of business in 2004. What workers did Olds have after 2004?

 

They kept making parts I think for a year or two.

 

I'm not sure how GM does their companies. I don't think they are all GM employees, and probably not even Oldsmobile, I would assume they were employee of the Lansing Assembly Plant, or whatever, so they probably didn't all stop at the same day.

 

Likely that the majority were suppliers not GM direct. When the Janesville plant when dormant(granted there were other Suburban/Tahoe/Yukon plants) everything was done after last job. They moved some equipment out, but work didn't continue, only shutdown wrap up.

 

To follow up on Eric's comments, look no further than the W25 hoods. My body guy had nearly 60 hours in making what was a pretty decent (1 crack) OE perfect for my blue car. The hood had waves in it like you see at the beach! It's perfect now but I won't to do that again. My new project already has a Thornton hood waiting at the body shop. The body guy was pretty happy when he saw nice it. It will take virtually no work to look as good as the OE one did when finished. Best of all, I saved both time and money on the repop part.

 

That was exactly my logic with the Thornton hood after seeing prices and hearing stories(thank you for the horror there) of amount of money put into originals to make them right. Glad I went that direction.

 

Maybe I was lucky, When my body guy done my W-30 he was also doing a 70 Pace Car. He said the Thornton's hood that went on the Pace Car was very nice but was not any better than my original one. He said for the hype of the "modern processes" that were used on the Thorntons hood, it was not as good as it should have been.

 

I think this is a fair question. Some of the parts that are available from the vendors aren't quite a 100% match to what the original part resembled. I've learned the hard way that not even NOS parts are a 100% match to the actual part placed on the car during its initial assembly. I'm trying to use as many NOS pieces during my W-31 restoration, within reason, because the part is a better fit and I enjoy the "chase" of the rare or elusive part. Chalk it up to an aspect of the hobby, I suppose. The NOS parts are out there, but to your earlier point you need have patience.