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Non A/C 350 Power Steering Bracket

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Old October 7th, 2019, 05:26 PM
  #1  
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Post Non A/C 350 Power Steering Bracket

I have all the stuff, just need a starting point if anyone has a pic of the set up or can describe to me where the bolts attach to the block, heads or intake. This is a NON A/C set-up. I'll accept stick drawings even! I got the Alternator on once I figure out the triangle thingie to begin with. I had to shim it to meet the belts almost perfectly. So now it is the Power steering pump and bracket! ANYONE?
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Old October 8th, 2019, 03:10 AM
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Do you have the proper bolts and spacers? I don’t recall the thickness of either, but they are pretty common to any Olds engine with power steering
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Old October 8th, 2019, 04:59 AM
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What year is the set up you are using? What length water pump are using? I think the non A/C passenger side alternator bracket is the only dam accessory Olds didn't use the stupid spacers with. If you are using the 6" water pump, expect to space everything out on the non A/C setup. I am currently did that to use my Flowkooler 6" water pump with my billet pulleys and non A/C alternator and power steering on my 70S. A dual groove power steering pump makes lining up belts easier. Here is the chart.
http://www.oldsmobility.com/oldsmo/v....php?f=6&t=391
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Old October 8th, 2019, 06:36 AM
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First of all, the PS pump bracket is exactly the same part for A/C and non-A/C applications.
Second, the spacer between the pump bracket and the side of the block is there because the same bracket is also used on Toronados, and that spacer takes up the thickness of the differential bracket on the FWD cars.

This really isn't difficult, and Olds did NOT space the brackets out for water pump length. Once again, get the pulleys to match the water pump and you will have no issues. Try and mix-and-match pulleys and you're screwed.
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Old October 8th, 2019, 09:22 AM
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It makes sense on the spacers. Well, when you buy a car with parts mixed and matched, you can make it all work. Someone used a nice 5.95" A/C closed impeller cast iron water pump that was on the 260 when I bought the car with non A/C brackets. Yeah, it worked great🙄

Last edited by olds 307 and 403; October 8th, 2019 at 01:00 PM.
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Old October 8th, 2019, 11:40 AM
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This diagram is from the 1972 Cutlass Assembly Manual. I suspect it will be the same from 1970-72 with the exception of how the PS pump looks. You should note that the PS pulley depends on AC or non AC application. As Joe mentioned, you need to determine which pulley you need to line up the PS belt onto the water pump and crank. Good luck with the project.

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Old October 8th, 2019, 03:24 PM
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I always wondered why Olds designed the power steering brackets the way they did. I have parted a couple Toronado, I guess I didn’t notice the spacer (or lack of). Learn something new!
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Old October 8th, 2019, 03:35 PM
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I am surprised they didn't build them the other way. No spacers on RWD applications would save a lot of money. I assume the FWD needed to be tucked in tighter?
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Old October 8th, 2019, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by olds 307 and 403
I am surprised they didn't build them the other way. No spacers on RWD applications would save a lot of money. I assume the FWD needed to be tucked in tighter?
Again, the bracket for the Toro differential housing goes BETWEEN the PS pump bracket and the block. It would be kind of hard to make the RWD version without needing a spacer then make a spacer with negative thickness for Toros...

Maybe if Escher designed it.



Also, another FYI. The 1968-70 full size cars that used that same PS pump bracket had the motor mounts in the front two holes in the block due to the rear steer configuration. That means that the D88 and Ninety Eight motor mounts ALSO went between that PS pump bracket and the block. Those applications require a thinner spacer than do the A-body cars.
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