D Appeldorn

Went to a engineshop with my 69' 88.

have a problem with my oilpresure and a nock.
they say't to me not to drive to save the engine.

they could'nt give me a price to get my engine fixed.
it all depends on how my engine looks on the inside.

He said that the costs could get around the same as a full reviced engine.
they could tel me if they take the engine appart.

i done some asking about a restored engine (longblock) price.
it's expencive 2200 euro for a 350 and 3000 euro for a 455.
and i have to paint it my selve
and that does not include to get the engine back where it belongs.

I'm thinking about to get the bigblock 455 in than. 396021 F

But if to know what off my 350 shall fit on the 455.
It's a longblock so it does not iclude the waterpump, manifolds, etc.

Even have to change my 350 valvecovers and oilfill tube onto the 455.
I'd tell them that oiltube is stamped with the engine code

So what is wise to do.

Save up and get the 455?

it's a 69'delta 88, with the 395558 2 350, with hydramatic 400 stamped OF (model 5400, 350 without k30) and diff code RA 2.78

Need some advice with this, as on the inside off the engine i'm a junior.
only did some timming and changed the intake.

Derek

wolfman98

feel bad for you man but one thing I know for sure is that I am gonna get a second and third opinion about what the problem may be. Did you lose all oil pressure and is the knock really loud?

D Appeldorn

no its not a realy loud knock depends on how loud you point.

my oil drops from 3 a 4 bar and fast pointing needle to 1 bar and less.
when it's on temp about 90 a 100 degrees it points out between 0 and 1.
drops stationairy down to 0

i think it would be the bearings on the crank, but who know's without removing the engine and drop the oilpan.
and than what else is worn.

i never disasembled a v8 and put it back again. so i'm a virgine to engine's can i say

and if i look at the engine it's getting hard to remove the oilpan with the engine in the car.

So i need idee's of what is wise to do.
And how to do it.

i going to hold the engine my selve to learn how it works

70 cutlass s

If you go with the 455 the only thing you will need to buy would be the exhaust manifolds. The 350 exhaust manifolds will bolt up, but be restrictive. Everything else the brackets, waterpump which I would replace with a new one, crank and waterpump pulleys. Pretty strait forward swap. You could do it yourself in a weekend if you want and save yourself a few euros.

D Appeldorn

Jo thanks,

mybe with no money left i could first run with the 350 exhaust manifold and make duals later.

Do you know if the valve covers are the same? and the feulpump?

thought i read somehere that there was a difference between crankventilation and differents between feulpressure.

And does the 350 starter work on the 455.

need it all to know so i don't get suprices after.

thanks,

svnt442

Use the water pump, oil pan, valve covers, brackets and pulleys from the 350. Get a new replacement water pump for the 350. The fuel pump will also work, but the hard fuel line from the pump to the carb will need to be changed.
Get new replacement motor mounts for the 350.
You can have the dual exhaust made with the 350 manifolds and just cap off the crossover port on the passenger side manifold. That's what Oldsmobile did from the factory.
Get a 455 starter. The 350 starter will work, but it will be over worked and die eventually.