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Need help with daughter's '98 Intrigue

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Old July 7th, 2015, 06:19 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by DJS70cutlass
Yup that's what I meant......like this.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...921_0006401129
Thanks for the link. I'll get my Napa to bring one in if that sensor proves bad.
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Old July 8th, 2015, 09:58 AM
  #42  
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I pulled the plug to the sensor and started the motor. It drips for sure but doesn't gush. I'll replace it and fix that coolant elbow and see where I'm at. Thanks guys.
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Old July 8th, 2015, 10:03 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Macadoo
I pulled the plug to the sensor and started the motor. It drips for sure but doesn't gush. I'll replace it and fix that coolant elbow and see where I'm at. Thanks guys.
Congrats you've found the problem
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Old July 9th, 2015, 08:16 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Macadoo
I feel really dumb. Really really dumb. A mechanic tells me it's the lower intake, internet says it's a common problem, and I just assume that's the problem. Oh heck, maybe that was a problem too. Yeah, that's it. They were BOTH leaking, yeah. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.
So, if I disconnect the plug and there is oil coming out, that's NOT supposed to happen, right?
Justin, at least I know how to bolt on the power steering pump now

In our defense we were assuming your mechanic correctly diagnosed the problem.
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Old July 10th, 2015, 08:04 AM
  #45  
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No defense necessary. Neither for you folks nor the mechanics. It's not like they were trying to sell me on the repair. On the contrary; they were telling me it wouldn't be worth it. Besides, I think it was leaking from the intake...and the pressure switch.....and now I think the pan gasket.
She's driving the car starting today. We'll see how it does. Replacing the pressure switch and redoing the coolant elbows took all of about an hour and a half. It would have been less had I known the pressure switch would have been more easily accessed from above, after removing the power steering pump. Like wayyyy easier, lol.
The MAWs got me a little. But since I had a donor car......I swapped three sketchy looking injectors, swapped the EGR valve, pulled all the coils on the donor for a later "just in case", topped off her R12, and a hundred other things.
Anything else I should grab before I have it hauled off? The alternator has a different bolt pattern for some reason. Both '1998s.
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Old July 10th, 2015, 08:28 AM
  #46  
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Ignition module that the coil sat on and the wiring harness ! Starter

The 98 should be 134a not r12


Edit: before I would do the oil pan I would do the front crank seal.

Depending on witch pan it has it could be a easy pan to regasket or one that you have to drop the subframe to do

Last edited by oldstata; July 10th, 2015 at 08:35 AM.
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Old July 10th, 2015, 04:00 PM
  #47  
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r12, derp! Yes, I put in a can of 134a.

I'm going to have to figure out where the draw the line. The body is starting to rot and not being a super-awesome body guy (like you!), I can never get it to stop.

She drove some fifty miles today, with a lot of stop-and-go traffic and the dipstick remained constant. Fingers crossed.
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Old July 10th, 2015, 04:19 PM
  #48  
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Mac I am not a body guy just have a few friends that do collision repair yes it's body work but restoration is different a lot different in my opinion and my friends lol

To be honest just dive in depending where the body needs work you maybe able to blend using a body line or molding to break it up
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Old July 10th, 2015, 06:06 PM
  #49  
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Okay, so here's the deal; it's my daughter's car and it's magnetically drawn the deer crossing signs. Why do you think we retired the other Intrigue?
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Old July 10th, 2015, 06:08 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Macadoo
Okay, so here's the deal; it's my daughter's car and it's magnetically drawn the deer crossing signs. Why do you think we retired the other Intrigue?
Lol I thought you were talking about the body work on the CS
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Old July 10th, 2015, 06:22 PM
  #51  
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O hell no. That body work I'll leave for the pros. And btw, the daughter isn't allowed to drive the CS, lol.
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