Motor Number
#2
It's not stamped. It's cast.
Stamped numbers are created by striking the block with a die that has the outlines of the numbers protruding from it, and the resulting markings are depressed into the metal.
Cast numbers protrude outward from the metal and are created by corresponding depressions in the casting molds.
385558 2 is the casting number for all Olds 350s made from 1968 to the late seventies.
If you want to know whether your engine is original, look at the stamped number in the spot indicated below and see whether the last six digits correspond to those of your VIN.
- Eric
Stamped numbers are created by striking the block with a die that has the outlines of the numbers protruding from it, and the resulting markings are depressed into the metal.
Cast numbers protrude outward from the metal and are created by corresponding depressions in the casting molds.
385558 2 is the casting number for all Olds 350s made from 1968 to the late seventies.
If you want to know whether your engine is original, look at the stamped number in the spot indicated below and see whether the last six digits correspond to those of your VIN.
- Eric
#4
Oh, some Olds Schoolin' !!
I also would like to see raised features not referred to as "stampings"
Anyhoo, WELCOME new person and don't be put off by us know-it-alls... for we share our knowledge freely. And, lo, it is valuable.
Conehorojo [red WHAT?]
Look also on the HEAD just above the freeze plug just above the patch labelled "NUMBER" where your VIN _STAMP_ is there. There should be a HUGE number [or letter] ID like 3/4" character, cast into the head next to the #8 and #1 spark plug.
For 395558-2 (350) engines, you may see
5 = '68-9
6 = 1970
7 = 1971
7a [tiny subscript upper case "A"]= 1972, or
8 = 1973-76 with EGR valve on intake.
Also, scrape the oily gunk off the oil fill tube and look for a 6-7 digit number- the FIRST digit of that will be the LAST digit of that tube's original engine's model year:
8100123 for 1968
9123321 for 1969
0xxxxxx for 1970
the "100123" and "xxxxxx" and such are obviously fillers I made up for examples. This is often a LOT easier to read than the block VIN stamp, but obviously the oil fill tube can be swapped.
I also would like to see raised features not referred to as "stampings"
Anyhoo, WELCOME new person and don't be put off by us know-it-alls... for we share our knowledge freely. And, lo, it is valuable.
Conehorojo [red WHAT?]
Look also on the HEAD just above the freeze plug just above the patch labelled "NUMBER" where your VIN _STAMP_ is there. There should be a HUGE number [or letter] ID like 3/4" character, cast into the head next to the #8 and #1 spark plug.
For 395558-2 (350) engines, you may see
5 = '68-9
6 = 1970
7 = 1971
7a [tiny subscript upper case "A"]= 1972, or
8 = 1973-76 with EGR valve on intake.
Also, scrape the oily gunk off the oil fill tube and look for a 6-7 digit number- the FIRST digit of that will be the LAST digit of that tube's original engine's model year:
8100123 for 1968
9123321 for 1969
0xxxxxx for 1970
the "100123" and "xxxxxx" and such are obviously fillers I made up for examples. This is often a LOT easier to read than the block VIN stamp, but obviously the oil fill tube can be swapped.
#8
#9
If stock AC is trashed and not holding pressue, consider Vintage Air for an aftermarket system designed to fit the car.
The engine stamping can be real hard to see on an AC car since the alternator will be in the way. Mirror or camera/phone may help.
#10
The other thing to consider is replacing the 8,000 lb A6 compressor with an aftermarket S6 unit. These put a late model Sanden compressor inside a housing that looks like the A6 and bolts to the stock brackets.
#11
Nice job, Joe, but your upper case "A" is not quiiiiiite as far away and low as actually appears on the head. I challenge you to do better!
j/k
When I started that "7a" practice to differentiate from "7A" we had TEXT ONLY interwebs, no fancy schmancy text sizes and colors and boldness. And, we LIKED IT!
#14
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Use those holes, or you can also replace the panels with used or new panels of your choice. The panels are reproduced, but if $$ is a concern there are always folks parting out cars and the door panels if in decent shape would be a fraction of the new costs.
#15
After spending money on the original A/C that came with the car, on a 100 degree day it just wasn't enough. I yanked it all out, bought a a/c delete cover and I am about to install the Vintage Air kit.
http://www.vintageair.com/2012catalo...Page%2027).pdf
#16
#17
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
So they finally have a complete kit for the non AC cars too by the look of it. Only thing about the faceplate is it doesn't have the option to include the rear defog, but I guess most cars didn't have that.
1,400.00 + shipping and install makes this a relatively high price item. You'd think it would include all the needed belts and pulleys.
1,400.00 + shipping and install makes this a relatively high price item. You'd think it would include all the needed belts and pulleys.
#19
The question to ask yourself is, Will the reduction in power drain (and all compressors do take a decent amount of power) justify the expense of the modifications?
For a car that's not a daily driver, they may not.
- Eric
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Eddie Hansen
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September 10th, 2012 01:12 PM