I have the motor number 385558 2 stamped on the motor in a 1971 cutlass s 350 convertible. Can anyone tell me about the number and what it means ? Is this the original motor? Thankyou

 

It's not stamped. It's cast.

Stamped numbers are created by striking the block with a die that has the outlines of the numbers protruding from it, and the resulting markings are depressed into the metal.

Cast numbers protrude outward from the metal and are created by corresponding depressions in the casting molds.

385558 2 is the casting number for all Olds 350s made from 1968 to the late seventies.

If you want to know whether your engine is original, look at the stamped number in the spot indicated below and see whether the last six digits correspond to those of your VIN.



- Eric

 

Thanks Eric. I am obviously a novice. I appreciate the info.

 

Oh, some Olds Schoolin' !!

I also would like to see raised features not referred to as "stampings"

Anyhoo, WELCOME new person and don't be put off by us know-it-alls... for we share our knowledge freely. And, lo, it is valuable.

Conehorojo [red WHAT?]
Look also on the HEAD just above the freeze plug just above the patch labelled "NUMBER" where your VIN _STAMP_ is there. There should be a HUGE number [or letter] ID like 3/4" character, cast into the head next to the #8 and #1 spark plug.

For 395558-2 (350) engines, you may see
5 = '68-9
6 = 1970
7 = 1971
7a [tiny subscript upper case "A"]= 1972, or
8 = 1973-76 with EGR valve on intake.

Also, scrape the oily gunk off the oil fill tube and look for a 6-7 digit number- the FIRST digit of that will be the LAST digit of that tube's original engine's model year:
8100123 for 1968
9123321 for 1969
0xxxxxx for 1970

the "100123" and "xxxxxx" and such are obviously fillers I made up for examples. This is often a LOT easier to read than the block VIN stamp, but obviously the oil fill tube can be swapped.

 

red rabbit. thanks for the info , I am learning a lot. I bought this car a week ago. My first car was a 1970 cutlass s , that is the reason I am getting back into oldsmobile.

 

I would also like to put a new stereo and an ac back into this car. It is a 1971 350 convertible. Any suggestions putting an a/c that would be more efficient than the original units.

 

Conejo: rabbit, cognate of Kanin (German), coney (English and Scots), coniglio (Italian), and probably lapin (French).

- Eric

 

Of course, what Chris really meant was 7A.
This should not be confused with 7A, as used on the 1985-1990 roller cam 307s.

(Hint, use the "sizes" pull-down menu above the reply text entry field to change the font size)

 

Don't hack up the dash to put in a stereo, especially if you have the stock unit. Lots of options depending on budget. Refurb stock, hide something modern in glove box, or Custom Autosounds makes a vintage looking head unit that fits the original dash. There are replacement kick panels with speaker mounts so you don't have to cut up your door panels.

If stock AC is trashed and not holding pressue, consider Vintage Air for an aftermarket system designed to fit the car.

The engine stamping can be real hard to see on an AC car since the alternator will be in the way. Mirror or camera/phone may help.

 

If the original A/C parts are there, the best thing would be to convert to a clutch cycling system using a conversion valve available from the aftermarket. Here's an article about the process.

The other thing to consider is replacing the 8,000 lb A6 compressor with an aftermarket S6 unit. These put a late model Sanden compressor inside a housing that looks like the A6 and bolts to the stock brackets.

 

See what I mean about the @#%$# know it alls here?
Nice job, Joe, but your upper case "A" is not quiiiiiite as far away and low as actually appears on the head. I challenge you to do better!

j/k

When I started that "7a" practice to differentiate from "7A" we had TEXT ONLY interwebs, no fancy schmancy text sizes and colors and boldness. And, we LIKED IT!

 

Thanks Teachers!

 

Unfortunately my door panels already have a hole cut in each side.

 

If the original dash isn't cut, have a look at this 'option' you might be interested. Randy (W70442 on this site) makes these housing custom so you could not only have a stereo, but gages mounted to look as close to factory as possible. Gauge and Stereo Housings

Use those holes, or you can also replace the panels with used or new panels of your choice. The panels are reproduced, but if $$ is a concern there are always folks parting out cars and the door panels if in decent shape would be a fraction of the new costs.

 

Check out Vintage Air. I am installing one in my Cutlass. My friend has one in a 67 Chevelle and it's like an ice box inside the car.
After spending money on the original A/C that came with the car, on a 100 degree day it just wasn't enough. I yanked it all out, bought a a/c delete cover and I am about to install the Vintage Air kit.


http://www.vintageair.com/2012catalo...Page%2027).pdf

 

Did you use R12 or R134? Did you keep the POA valve or change to a cycling switch?

- Eric

 

So they finally have a complete kit for the non AC cars too by the look of it. Only thing about the faceplate is it doesn't have the option to include the rear defog, but I guess most cars didn't have that.

1,400.00 + shipping and install makes this a relatively high price item. You'd think it would include all the needed belts and pulleys.

 

I have a good supply of r-12 this might help me . I just remember the old compressors draining the engine when they came on. I was also concerned about gas mileage at that age too. Gas was cheap then.

 

Yes, the A6 compressors do draw a bit of power, and definitely take a couple of MPG.

The question to ask yourself is, Will the reduction in power drain (and all compressors do take a decent amount of power) justify the expense of the modifications?

For a car that's not a daily driver, they may not.

- Eric