i found out by pouring gas into the gastank that someone has stabbed a hole in the tank to get the gas out. i tryed some tootsy roll puddy but it kept falling off and ive had bad luck with JB weld in the past. right now i have a self tapping screw in it but it still slowly leakes out. is there anything out there thats good for metal gas tanks? id hate to have to replace the tank because of 1 hole.

 

Years ago I worked in a blacksmith job shop and we routinely welded up holes in gas tanks. After removal of the tank the secrete is to wash the tank out VERY well with a strong detergent then fill the tank with water as close to the to be welded area as you can, no problem. I used oxie/ acetylene but I'm sure a tig or mig would work as well. just be sure there is no large pocket of air around the hole to be welded......Tedd

 

In my much younger days I once tried to weld a hole in a gas tank for my 81 Trans Am. It didn't go so well. Luckily though, I'm still here to tell about it.

 

Yup, to weld a gas tank, you've got to wash it out well, then fill it with water or sand.

BUT, I would question whether that is necessary.

If you empty the tank above the hole, then rough it up well with a grinding wheel, I see no reason why an epoxy sealer, such as JB Weld, etc., shouldn't provide an essentially permanent repair. I've done it before, myself, and on bigger holes than you could put a sheet metal screw into.
Methinks you're doing something wrong.

- Eric

 

I was thinking the same thing. From the sounds of it, the hole is on the bottom of the tank. He'll need to take it off the car and turn it upside down. Then scratch with a sander and apply JB Weld or fibreglass matte or whatever it takes to seal the hole. I think the gas sitting around the hole is probably keeping the materials from bonding.

 

I don't think so.

The epoxy sealant that is designed for gas tanks will work if there is a little gas there, if I recall. I used it once to seal a number of hatchet cuts in a Porsche 911 gas tank (I think someone hadn't liked the previous owner ), and it worked fine.

Just clean the surfaces well, and maybe apply a little heat (heat gun, not an open flame, for best results ), and that should do it.

- Eric

 

im gonna try pulling out the self tapping screw and putting a o ring on the screw and putting it back in the tank. i have a few left over from carb rebuild kits. its been in the 30s here in arkansas the past few days and nothing will bond to metal at that temp.

 

When it warms up, you might want to leave the screw in, clean it really good and the tank around it and cover it with JB Weld or some good epoxy. I would not go long term with just the screw and o-ring.

 

SOLDER ! it will work, I garrantee it ! take tank off, just drain it , clean the area around the leak, sand it, Do not use a grinder !. Get some flux, and solder, and a GOOD soldering iron. put down some flux, touch the hot iron in flux, make it work (sizzle)a little, add some solder. The key is to get a lite coat on the metal, BEFORE you worry about fixing the leak. This is called 'tinning' . Some people have even solder ed pennies over the hole. You can solder this at a much lower temp then will ever ignite any gas !

 

Ok, I'm not sure why no one's told you this. Gas tanks CAN be repaired. If you take it to a rad shop (yup that's right) they will empty the tank, boil it to remove all the crud and residual flamables, then weld up a patch for you. I had it done on my 72 Cutlass many years ago when it developed a leak and started flushing gas down a manhole cover in my apartment complex. Doesn't cost much and the repair is still good.
Here's where it got patched

 

Good call Allan. Can't hurt to clean the tank either.

 

the o ring trick worked for now. i tightened it up really good then put 3 gals of gas in the tank and let it sit for a hour. no leakes. this will get me buy untill it warms up enough to patch it properly.