Problem 1 :when i turn off the wipers to the off position,they keep on going switch it to delay wipers they delay low and high but wont turn off.unplug it by the motor for 15 seconds here a click by the motor plug it back in then they shut off.

Problem 2 :There is a hole in the drivers floor,I want to patch it but I dont weld,Want to do it myself any suggestions how to repair it and what size guage steel should i use.

Problem 3 :The kid I bought the car off of had factory guages he installed they where for the station wagon version of this car the volts are working.Just the oil pressure and temp guage dont work.I dont want to use the idiot lights no more I know I have to run one wire from the guage to the oil pressure sender and the same with the temp.can i use the factory pressure switch sender and temp sender or change them.

I got to get the whole roof done with a new top.There are some rust spots in the roof by the side back windows.How much do you think the going price is to put a new top,padding and fix the rust holes.around about that for taking the time out to read this.

 

Sharp looking car - looks right at home in those downtown pics! Hows the inside look?

If you do not weld, do you know someone local who could do it for you for a small fee or barter?

I do not understand the gauge situation as worded. The car has factory type gauges in it now? If they were added, then the sending units would need to have been changed to gauge type units. Rockauto may have them. A picture of the front of your motor will show what type it has.

 

Nice looking car, almost surprised it has any rust it looks so clean. I would definitely weld the floor up or have someone do it. Also, can you post pics of the area on top where it needs to be fixed?

 

The gauge senders as stated above woould need to be changed.

The roof, depending on hhow bad the rust is, would budget at about $1500-2000.

The wipers have a park circuit that is not unlatching. It can be in the delay switch or the motor.

The hole in your floor can be solved by removing the rusted material an riveting in a new plate to cover the hole. Use some sealer, undercoating, or???, between the plate and the floor.

 

Beautiful and classy. Nice !

 

Problem #1 - Wiper circuit. Grab one from a boneyard, should fix you right up.

Problem #2 - Driver's floor...... You can fix it, and fix it, and then fix it again. Or you can fix it right the first time.

Problem #3 - Factory Gauges... If you are meaning the gauges that are down by the steering column, they are actually 88/98/Custom Cruiser Rallye Gauges. They will need the correct sensors. I went with sensors from an early 70's 350 Cutlass. My oil PSI is spot on, the volts are very close, and the temp gauge, well... I'm not sure I have the right sensor, but it works. All of my gauges are wired straight from the sensor to the gauge. I'm still sorting it out, but wired like this, my oil idiot light is not working, and the temp light lights, but I am not sure if it is legitimately working.

The wagons didn't have a special gauge package.

BTW: Nice snag! These things make great daily drivers when they are all sorted out.

 

Judging by the grille and tail lights, it's an LS model.

 

when you turn your wipers off,and they stay on,shut the motor off at the next stop,and restart the car.
the wipers should shut off when you restart.

 

iM HAVING A FREIND WELD THE FLOOR THIS WEEKEND

 

my 1983 Regency Brougham did exactly the same thing, only it also squirted the washer fluid dry. I stopped and unplugged it. Tried that key off/on trick but it didn't work. So I figured the circuit board was fried. Got a replacement wiper motor at the wrecker for around 10 bucks. Takes about 20 minutes to remove the old and put the new one in.

You can use donor wiper motors from 79-85 Buick, Pontiac and Olds full size.

 

Cool... You will be happy with a good weld for solidity and long life.

 

I had the same problem on my 88 Caprice, the mechanicals inside the cover would sometimes need to be lubed with WD40 that also kept the moisture off the circuit board. That seemed to work well enough to keep it to an occasional tolerable nuisance.

 

Ok guys, got the floor welded over the weekend came out good.I wound up taking out the whole carpet and found out the the the passenger rear started to mske a small hole in the floor got that fixed.noticed the cause of this whole problem is the weatherstripping on the doors letting water in and soaking the carpet.off to the other projects this weekend

 

I had the same thing happen on my Caprice (same platform) the water would work its way through the door onto the front floor. Mine was the front driver’s side. I caught it early. If I parked on a slight slope the water flowed to the outside, otherwise I would throw a towel next to the door when I couldn’t park with the car sloped. Mine was a small leak so it was easy to control. Hidden leaks can cause some big problems if they are not discovered in time. I loved my Caprice, a friend had an 85 Delta, that was a nice car too. They were nice comfy dependable cars.

 

Are the sending units there for the oil and water gauges?

I teed my oil gauge sending unit with the oil light and the water gauge, I just removed a temp controled vacuum switch in the back driver's side corner of the manifold.

Look up "1980 Delta 88" and you'll get the sending units. For the water unit, you'll need the 3/8 thread (or the more expensive one)

My Volts gauge is dead on, oil gauge is dead on but gets stuck at 10 when cold but popps up the right number (checked with an autometer mech gauge) and the water temp, is off by 40*.

I have 2 of the water/oil gauges. Both water gauges are off by the same amount both oil gauges are right on, but the one oil gauge likes to bounce all over the place at times.

 

Since you have water leakage from the doors, one thing to check is that all the watershields behind the door panels are tucked into the slots at the bottoms of the doors. This keeps water inside the doors that drain to the outside.
I am sure some of your panels had been removed in previous years for window or lock repairs. Just pull back the bottoms of the door panels and look up under them (lay on the ground or use a mirror.
You'd be surprised to know how many mechanics will just put the shield flat or trash it cuse it looks like scrappy paper.