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I recently had my 1970 350 professionally rebuilt. With a couple hundred miles on it I discovered an oil leak at the passenger side of the intake manifold. It is a factory #16.
Does anyone have advise on how to remedy this concern? See photos for reference.
Wow, that is not where I would expect oil to leak. There’s no pressure in that area, and the only way oil can get there is splashing off the cam and lifters. So there’s no pressure pushing oil into that area.
That stuff looks really dark. Is your oil on the dipstick that dark?
Wow, that is not where I would expect oil to leak. There’s no pressure in that area, and the only way oil can get there is splashing off the cam and lifters. So there’s no pressure pushing oil into that area.
That stuff looks really dark. Is your oil on the dipstick that dark?
I'm no expert but I recently used Permatex aviation form-a-gasket on different components when resealing my 350 and when it got hot the sealer seeped and made the appearance of an oil leak. Now I know you have quite a bit standing there but since your oil on the dipstick is clear and this is much darker it's just a thought. Otherwise I agree with Olds64...add dye and check for leaks.
Good suggestion that it could be fuel. The secondary throttle shaft looks to be too dark in color??? and is similar to the pooling/stain. Shouldn't that shaft be green?
I sopped it up and went for a ten mile jaunt. When I got back I immediately checked it out. It had leaked again but not enough to spill over into the low area. Didn't touch it. Went back a couple hours later and it had drained itself back into the engine.
The numbers on the gasket read: 90736. I have not identified this application but I am wondering if it is something other than the "turkey pan" style gasket. Dipstick on pinky and pooling on ring fingers. Pooling after 10 mile ride 2 hour cool down and oil seeped back in the engine
BTW, DO NOT use a 12 point socket or a 12 point wrench. Use ONLY a 6 point socket or a 6 point wrench and DO NOT use the open-end of the wrench. Use only the boxed end.
BTW, DO NOT use a 12 point socket or a 12 point wrench. Use ONLY a 6 point socket or a 6 point wrench and DO NOT use the open-end of the wrench. Use only the boxed end.
Sounds good. The reason I don't want to disturb anything too much is the only way my builder would do the job is if they pulled the engine from the car and installed it in the car. They did give me the ok to re torque the most outer 4 to prevent a one drop of antifreeze at the right front that was collecting on the underside of the head by the fuel pump after the car sat for a week or so without running it (full contraction). This is how I discovered the latest oil leak. According to my paperwork I am still under warranty.
I assume "re torque" when the engine has fully cooled?
I also agree with retightening the intake manifold bolts but I don't think that applying a thread sealer will accomplish anything since the bolt holes in the cylinder heads are "blind".
I removed the two short bolts between 6 and 4. They appeared to have a small amount of thread lock but soaked in oil. Cleaned and reapplied, re torqued all bolts in sequence as per the service manual plus 5lbs. After 30 miles or so there are no visible leaks at this time.
