deaddds

I have several cars in long term storage that stay dry and in winter, around 55 degrees. I've had to replace a heater core that leaked and screwed up carpets from sitting. My thoughts are to flush all the blocks out of the long term cars and just fill with distilled H2O. That way if a leak develops, its just water. I know early cars mainly used water only so will this cause bigger problems on 30s thru 70s cars? If they get driven its only around town and they barely get to op temp so I'm not worried about overheating. Thoughts? Thanks

CO53Super88

Someone with more experience might disagree with me but I think you are better off keeping the car in normal driving condition so you will be more inclined to properly exercise it regularly. Cars, boats, airplanes ... anything mechanical will tend to detiorate more quickly by NOT being used. Seals, hoses, fittings dry up or rust through, gunk collects and hardens, etc... when things are allowed to sit for too long. If you can drive your car on an occasional nice winter day every few weeks, get her up to highway speed for 30-40 minutes so everything gets hot and well-cycled I think it will be a better machine come spring time than if you put her to sleep for the winter.

Nilsson

I agree, there are always a couple days of every winter month I can take my car out and drive it. The battery will still need maintanence with a trickle charger.

redoldsman

I personally don't think pure water is the way to go but if you do be sure to use rust inhibitor in the cooling system.

Lady72nRob71

X2.
Coolant has corrosion inhibitors and lubricants to keep the water pump seal from sticking to the shaft.
I think your heater core leak was a coincident, rather than resulting from storage.

67 442

Good topic! Last winter I started the 67 every 2-3 weeks and brought it up to temp, I even got to drive it a little since the winter was so mild. I still ended up having to rebuild the carb since the ethanol in the 93 octane fuel (w Lucas additives) seem to gunk it up. Something did anyway...

I have a racer friend who swears that the ethanol in gas draws moisture out of the environment into the carb and if left long enough bad things will happen.

So this winter I am completely draining the fuel system and will be back-filling with race gas. We will see how that goes.

I agree with Super88, exercising the car is a must. Sitting for months, even weeks at a time is not good for them.

deaddds

That is the dilemma as the goal is to assemble a mini museum within 5 yrs or so. Bigger problem is I still work full time and will be for a while so being able to routinely get cars out and about doesn't happen with any frequency. I would expect draining fluids out would potentailly cause more problems than they solve. I can deal with a radiator easier than heater core messes. Any thoughts on brakes? My hunch is the wheel cylinders will be the hangups.

CO53Super88

I empathise with you - I have too many toys myself (though only one collector car) - keeping everything exercised is a challenge. But running them every few weeks is really the only way to keep the internal mechanicals lubed. I always use Stabile in the last tank of fuel before winter and that seems to work to keep the fuel system in shape. Maybe s bottle of HEET would keep moisture from contaminating the fuel - never tried it though. As far as brakes the only thing I know is don't set the parking brake - that could seize the brakes during a long period of sitting especially if outdoors where they could rust.

droldsmorland

I would simply perform a good flush & drain. Then drain all the coolant from the system as well as possible maybe blow it out with very low pressure compressed air to get to the heater cores and low spots in the blocks. Or blow the cores out by disconnecting the lines. Leave the cooling systems empty with a coating of clean fresh high qual coolant. If you leave fluids in the cooling systems it will inevitably oxidize and leak somewhere just from sitting, dry is best IMO. If left full of coolant it will turn acidic just from sitting. Do not use water, DI, RO or other. It will rust the hell out of everything.
Same deal for the fuel systems. Run Blue Stabil through them then drain everything and blow it out including the tank, pump and carb bowl.
The brakes are another story. Brake fluid wicks in h20 very efficiently. You are stuck either power bleeding them every other year or draining the system? I’d go with power bleeding and actuating the system with some brake pedal style bleeding. This will keep it free. Either way parts will dry-rot, though you do have climate control which will retard that somewhat.
I would also fog the cylinders. This will prevent surface rust in the combustion chambers.
Lastly think about rodent control. These little parasites will destroy anything they get into.
What you’re trying to accomplish is what the military calls “pickling”. Do a little research on that subject as they have many other methods for long term protection.

z11375ss

67 442, I love that car!

D. Yaros

Your friend is correct. This is a problem with cars that have a vented fuel tank, like any non-fuel injected system.